truss spacing

[boustany]

Check your mail, and send send me your email address and I'll send you a PDF of the truss diagram.

Of course, these are manufactured trusses, meaning that, chances are, you can't get code approval without an engineers stamp, but that varies depending on where you are.

Attic trusses are standard fare if you are a truss manufacturer - you just need to know to ask for them and most people don't. For example I just had the final done on my barn, and the inspector commented that he thought it was amazing more people didn't use attic trusses on their houses.

In terms of costs, I can't imagine not using manufactured trusses for a building, unless there were very specific architectural features (such as timber framing) which couldn't be done with them. Even then, in my house I've got coffered ceilings, etc., using manufactured trusses.

For the record, my trusses cost me something like CDN $3,300 (at the time a bit more than US $2,000) for the 22 trussed (one was doubled up because of a stairway). I maybe could have bought the lumber for less, but the time savings, and so on meant that trusses are the all time deal.

 

[fishman]

Thanks Boustany, message right back at you.

Code? What code? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Anyway, I don't know if I'll build my own, depends on how much the cost savings might be.

 

[boustany]

Zee plans are in zee email.

Anyhow, one thing is, the truss manufacturers have special 'nailing plates' or whatever they are called, so their joints are stronger. Home Depot, etc, sell similar ones but they are nowhere near as robust. Plus, I have never been above to successfully attach the ones that look like a bed of nails.

You could use plywood gussets, but I can't vouch for how strong the resulting truss would be. And thats a pretty important detail.

So, if I weren't using manufactured trusses, I'd go with either stick framing (i.e. birds mouth and all that), or I'd try find a design guide for 'do it yourself' attic trusses.

Still, given the relatively minor cost over the lumber I thinks its a no-brainer to go with manufactured trusses.

 

[johnday]

Rick; No matter how you do it, you've still got to please the Building Inspector. Do yourself a favor and talk to him before you go any further. Some will disagree, but the inspectors job is to HELP you. Thats why you pay taxes.

In southeast Michigan, you require a 40# roof, 250 miles north where my retirement house is, I need a 60# roof. Down here that translates into a 24"OC spacing, up there with the same truss I need 16"OC. Different requirements for different parts of just one state. Now we're talking worldwide on TBYnet, guess what, your getting good advice, but only regional advice. See what I mean?

Good Luck, building can be fun, then again, sometimes it ain't. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[RebelPride]

Thanks for the help everybody. I have got plenty of time to talk to the truss manufactor and inspector. I am just now in the planning stage, and not in a real big hurry. Although if hurricane Frances hits as hard as she looks like she might , I am sure building supplies will go up even higher.

 

[boustany]

Absolutely pay attention to code and get an inspection.

If you read through the code, it all makes sense. Well almost all the times - round here septic systems are sized on the basis of # bedrooms x # square foot x # bathrooms, meaning I had to put a hotel sized system on my lot.

Anyway, what the code is is a bunch of pre-engineered solutions. Use a double 2x8 over a an 8 foot opening and you know it'll support the load, etc..

Just like electrical, it doesn't usually cost more (or much more) to do it right, and the result is better safety, and less rework & fixes (when the roof sags, etc.).