Trying to cool metal shop building

[zman007007]

I could be wrong, but I think if you invested that money, in insulation, you would be able to get that other few cooler degrees and save on the power bill too, from now on. I have 2 metal buildings. I am in them every day. One is a 14' x 40', almost totally insulated and paneled. The other is a 15' x 15' attachment, I just had built, and believe me the difference is about 20 degrees between the 2 when I come into them when I get home. I am insulating the new one now, and I know I will be able to tell a big difference, when I am done. By the way, the highs here have been in the 90"s for about the last month.

 

[AHNC]

Rule of thumb isthat you put your first $s in the envelope. Insulation, windows, doors. That should bring your 24k unit into line a bit.

If you choose to put a central system in, I would suggest that you have a piece of spiral duct with side outlets or branches to the sides, hung from the center of the space.

 

[westbrooklawn]

All replies have been excellent, and I understand that the value of additional insulation would be tremendous. The fact is that I paid an additional $1800 for the insulation that was installed with the building, and it works fine for heating. To add insulation at this point would be very difficult and expensive because the wall uprights and roof support metal trusses are about 5' apart... foam would probably be a good solution, but the existing insulation sheeting would have to be cut out first, and the labor associated with that, plus the high cost of the foam would be cost prohibitive. I am going to contact the building manufacturer/installer (Carolina Structural), and see what they recommend. I know they install this same type building for constant climate controlled situations, and there might be some easy fix that is not obvious to me.

 

[Ken]

Look around the neighbor hood at the poultry houses and some newer dairy barns . They are using what is called cool cells. matted paper cells and small amount of water flowing down the cells and across the building a fan draws the air from the building. The inside temp in 95 deg. weather with high humidity is about 75 deg. low humidity it goes to 65 deg. Not bad difference and doesn't blow water like a spray or fan directly on wet surface.
ken

 

[pat32rf]

Any chance you could install a "T-bar" drop ceiling but use 1" styrofoam instead of tile? Then let the hot air from above it escape upwards.....Works great in my chicken coop.
If you can reduce the volume of air that you have to cool you reduce your hydro bill.
Along the same lines, pump your cool air back in at floor level and let it stay down low, who cares how hot it gets 9 feet above ground, as long as its cool in the lower five.....Either way----insulation is best

 

[Mike Costello]

I have a 30X60 shop that is insulated with bubble wrap including the walls and roof. I have found this to work very well, both in the winter and summer. I took advantage of the prevailing winds here in Missouri and installed windows at each end of the building as well as the East facing wall where I spend alot of "bench time". In addition the ridge cap is vented, allowing heat to move up and out. The garage doors are 10X16 and are insulated. In the summer, I make use of a portable fan that goes where I go if I change locations in the shop. The same applies for a portable heater in the winter.
Trying to totally heat and cool my shop would be too expensive, so I do it by the work zone method. After all, you are only interested in the immediate space you are occupying at the time to remain comfortable.
Sometimes, however, Mother Nature is just too powerful to overcome so I wait until evening to do some jobs. There's nothing like a "cold one" on your front porch in the shade as you contemplate that nite's projects.
As a side note, I recently looked at a property for a friend that had a 30X50 shop building that was not insulated at all. Now that was pure H...!

 

[brokenknee]

If there is any way you can put an insulated ceiling in there it would be a major help.
Walls too, you need a heat barrier before you can efficiently maintain a warm or cool shop.
If insulation isn't an option there is a product that sprays a fine mist of water (can't remember the name) the water mist is directed toward you to help keep you cool.
Might not be a good idea if mold is a concern though.

Not sure of the proper name for it, but my dad retired in Arizona and he calls it a swamp cooler. If this has already be answered my apologies as I read through the thread pretty quickly.

 

[Opti-Mist]

Not sure of the proper name for it, but my dad retired in Arizona and he calls it a swamp cooler. If this has already be answered my apologies as I read through the thread pretty quickly.

If memory serves, it is an evaporative cooler.

 

[Big Bri]

the problem with the swamp coolers is that they will make eveything in your shop rest. i sold mine after a year and bought a window a/c.

 

[beenthere]

Don't forget about the moisture (humidity) that will make affect the comfort of cool air. Without a vapor barrier, the air will be damp and clammy.

Take that into account when you enclose a space to cool, and you shouldn't be disappointed.