TSC Lawn Roller

[TnWV]

http://m.tractorsupply.com/en/store/ohio-steel-920-lb-steel-lawn-roller-24-in-x-52-in

Anyone have experience with the 920lb roller from TSC? My yard is extremely rough and I need to smooth it out. I've searched for heavier used rollers big enough for my MF150, but have had no luck. This TSC roller should work well behind my X530, but not if it isn't effective. Just trying to find some real world experience with a roller this size on established lawns. Any opinions appreciated. Thanks!

 

[devildog1]

I have the same size roller and it does work well. I use it in the spring to flatten down the frost heaves that we get here in this part of the country every spring after the cold long winter. I fill my roller up quite full and pull it with a Husqvarna 26 horse garden tractor, I know it's behind there but my lawn is quite flat. It's best to do the rolling if the ground is moist but not too wet as ruts will be the outcome. This is what I've been doing for quite a few years and it works well. Good luck to you.
DevilDog

 

[aczlan]

I have one and it works well, but if you dont drain it when it gets cold out, it will break the welds holding the bar in at one end...

Aaron Z

 

[94BULLITT]

920lb's for a 4' roller is good. I am not sure if using a lawn roller is the best way to smooth a yard.

 

[dieselbob69]

The one I had ended up leaking from where the bar goes into drum. I had an older roller that doesn't have rounded edges that had multiple pinholes in the side-my solution? Cut a bigger hole in side and fill it with sand. Lot heavier than water,and 3 wheeler tows it ok. I really need to just hire someone w/ ride-on roller to do it or rent one for a weekend.

 

[TnWV]

I have the same size roller and it does work well. I use it in the spring to flatten down the frost heaves that we get here in this part of the country every spring after the cold long winter. I fill my roller up quite full and pull it with a Husqvarna 26 horse garden tractor, I know it's behind there but my lawn is quite flat. It's best to do the rolling if the ground is moist but not too wet as ruts will be the outcome. This is what I've been doing for quite a few years and it works well. Good luck to you.
DevilDog

Sounds like you are doing exactly what I need to do. Glad to hear it works, I may just go ahead and get it this week.

 

[Will_C]

I have had 2 of those rollers over the last 15 years. They work well, but are not very durable-after a few years they crack and break. I took the plunge last year and bought a 6' roller from a fabricating shop around an hour away. It was more expensive ($600), but weighs 350lbs empty and should be much more durable.

Will

 

[TnWV]

920lb's for a 4' roller is good. I am not sure if using a lawn roller is the best way to smooth a yard.

I realize a roller will have limitations, and have a 6' tiller that I can use worst case. I'm just trying not to till the whole yard just to smooth out from moles digging, frost heave, etc.

 

[TnWV]

The one I had ended up leaking from where the bar goes into drum. I had an older roller that doesn't have rounded edges that had multiple pinholes in the side-my solution? Cut a bigger hole in side and fill it with sand. Lot heavier than water,and 3 wheeler tows it ok. I really need to just hire someone w/ ride-on roller to do it or rent one for a weekend.

I was thinking sand might be heavier than water and would possibly make it work better.

 

[TnWV]

I have had 2 of those rollers over the last 15 years. They work well, but are not very durable-after a few years they crack and break. I took the plunge last year and bought a 6' roller from a fabricating shop around an hour away. It was more expensive ($600), but weighs 350lbs empty and should be much more durable.

Will

I have been searching for one like you bought, but haven't had any luck finding anyone that makes them. I'd probably pay that for one that I knew would work and last many years. If the TSC one will work, I don't mind having to replace it in a few years.

 

[RG1]

I have a 4' roller that i bought from a JD dealer. It is a LOT heavier duty than the ones they sell at TSC, which are kinda cheap IMO. They are thin in the drum, and have weak drawbars and poor excuses for where it mounts to the drum. Mine has heavy duty, greasable cast iron pillow bearings at each end, and has lasted well for the last 8 or so years. I pull it quite easily (fully loaded to pouring out the opening with it at the top) with my 14 HP JD garden tractor. Up hill too. You know it's there, but it is not a big strain to pull it. Heck, I can pull it al around my property where it is flat by hand without too much effort. It won't flatte everything, but works great on mole tunnels.

The best time to use it is to pay close attention to your local DOT frost laws and get the rolling in just as the frost is coming out of the ground, which is usually a two day window (at least here in MI where I am).

I do it every spring, once during the frost out, and then again about halfway through the spring rush for the grass growing season. It does not break or kill the grass as some claim. I have a very well cared for and healthy lawn and I wouldn't do it if it was hurting it.

You can see the roller in the background of this pic of that old JD garden tractor (which is now 24 years old ) If you look closely, you can see the fill spout opening is at the top. It was just done being filled when I took that picture.

 

[TnWV]

I have a 4' roller that i bought from a JD dealer. It is a LOT heavier duty than the ones they sell at TSC, which are kinda cheap IMO. They are thin in the drum, and have weak drawbars and poor excuses for where it mounts to the drum. Mine has heavy duty, greasable cast iron pillow bearings at each end, and has lasted well for the last 8 or so years. I pull it quite easily (fully loaded to pouring out the opening with it at the top) with my 14 HP JD garden tractor. Up hill too. You know it's there, but it is not a big strain to pull it. Heck, I can pull it al around my property where it is flat by hand without too much effort. It won't flatte everything, but works great on mole tunnels.

The best time to use it is to pay close attention to your local DOT frost laws and get the rolling in just as the frost is coming out of the ground, which is usually a two day window (at least here in MI where I am).

I do it every spring, once during the frost out, and then again about halfway through the spring rush for the grass growing season. It does not break or kill the grass as some claim. I have a very well cared for and healthy lawn and I wouldn't do it if it was hurting it.

You can see the roller in the background of this pic of that old JD garden tractor (which is now 24 years old ) If you look closely, you can see the fill spout opening is at the top. It was just done being filled when I took that picture.

I may call my Deere dealer and see what they may have before making a decision. I haven't seen any on the lot when I have been there, so I just assumed they don't sell them.

It has been nice and wet the last couple of weeks, but is starting to dry out now. I may have missed my best opportunity at this point, but hopefully a roller will still be somewhat effective after a good soaking rain. Riding my mower across parts of the lawn, it feels like a washboard in places and is hard on the back and shoulders. Its my hope that a roller will be an effective way to correct most of it.

 

[aczlan]

I may call my Deere dealer and see what they may have before making a decision. I haven't seen any on the lot when I have been there, so I just assumed they don't sell them.
It has been nice and wet the last couple of weeks, but is starting to dry out now. I may have missed my best opportunity at this point, but hopefully a roller will still be somewhat effective after a good soaking rain. Riding my mower across parts of the lawn, it feels like a washboard in places and is hard on the back and shoulders. Its my hope that a roller will be an effective way to correct most of it.

Be sure to take a close look to compare it to the Ohio Steel one. The grass/leaf sweeper they sell is just a rebadged Ohio Steel one and if its like my Kubota dealer (who also sells Ohio Steel implements), its $50 cheaper for the exact same roller at TSC...

Aaron Z

 

[srs]

I took the plunge last year and bought a 6' roller from a fabricating shop around an hour away. It was more expensive ($600), but weighs 350lbs empty and should be much more durable.

Will

Will_C, would you happen to have a picture of it? How tall is your roller (6' X ?) and what do you think the weight of it is filled with water? Thanks, Stanley

 

[jeff9366]

Anyone considering a Cultipacker instead of a water filled roller? Mine is 3-Pt mounted but pull units are available.

Eight inch diameter Cultipackers are probably about the same weight as some rollers.

Ten and twelve inch Cultipackers will be heavier.

Last week I was rolling in seed for deer and wild turkey food plots.

 

[RG1]

Be sure to take a close look to compare it to the Ohio Steel one. The grass/leaf sweeper they sell is just a rebadged Ohio Steel one and if its like my Kubota dealer (who also sells Ohio Steel implements), its $50 cheaper for the exact same roller at TSC...

Aaron Z

The one I bought from my JD dealer is nothing at all like the Ohio Steel rollers. They aren't even close in quality or construction. Instead of a flat piece of mild steel for the drawbar, mine has a 1.5" tubular steel drawbar, much heavier gauge drum, and as already stated, cast iron pillow bearing blocks for the center hub shaft to mount to. It also has 3/16" thick steel drawbar upper and lower arms that are welded to the tubing of the drawbar.

 

[RG1]

I may call my Deere dealer and see what they may have before making a decision. I haven't seen any on the lot when I have been there, so I just assumed they don't sell them.

It has been nice and wet the last couple of weeks, but is starting to dry out now. I may have missed my best opportunity at this point, but hopefully a roller will still be somewhat effective after a good soaking rain. Riding my mower across parts of the lawn, it feels like a washboard in places and is hard on the back and shoulders. Its my hope that a roller will be an effective way to correct most of it.

When you do roll your yard, make sure not to go across the ruts at right angles at all. If you do, you'll make them even more pronounced. Either go lengthwise with the ruts, or at a sharp angle across them. lengthwise works best though.

 

[aczlan]

The one I bought from my JD dealer is nothing at all like the Ohio Steel rollers. They aren't even close in quality or construction. Instead of a flat piece of mild steel for the drawbar, mine has a 1.5" tubular steel drawbar, much heavier gauge drum, and as already stated, cast iron pillow bearing blocks for the center hub shaft to mount to. It also has 3/16" thick steel drawbar upper and lower arms that are welded to the tubing of the drawbar.

As I said, compare them. Different dealers might carry different rollers. For an example, here is the Deere 36" Lawn roller: https://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_U...36_inch_lawn_roller/36_inch_lawn_roller.page? available for $229 from Mutton: https://www.muttonpower.com/store/p-4138-john-deere-36-tow-behind-lawn-roller-lpprt36jd.aspx

See any similarities in the Brinly PRT-36SBH available on Amazon for $135: Amazon.com: Brinly PRT-36SBH 390-Pound Tow Behind Poly Lawn Roller, 18 by 36-Inch: Patio, Lawn & Garden or Northern for $130: Brinly-Hardy Poly Lawn Roller — 390-Lb., Model# PRT-36SBH | Aerators Lawn Rollers| Northern Tool + Equipment
Also, its big brother,the PRT-36BH is available for $160 from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Brinly-PRT-36BH-690-Pound-Behind-36-Inch/dp/B002707H70)or $170 from Northern: (Brinly-Hardy Poly Lawn Roller — 690 Lbs., Model# PRT-36BH | Aerators Lawn Rollers| Northern Tool + Equipment)

Aaron Z

 

[RG1]

As I said, compare them. Different dealers might carry different rollers. For an example, here is the Deere 36" Lawn roller: https://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_U...36_inch_lawn_roller/36_inch_lawn_roller.page? available for $229 from Mutton: https://www.muttonpower.com/store/p-4138-john-deere-36-tow-behind-lawn-roller-lpprt36jd.aspx

See any similarities in the Brinly PRT-36SBH available on Amazon for $135: Amazon.com: Brinly PRT-36SBH 390-Pound Tow Behind Poly Lawn Roller, 18 by 36-Inch: Patio, Lawn & Garden or Northern for $130: Brinly-Hardy Poly Lawn Roller — 390-Lb., Model# PRT-36SBH | Aerators Lawn Rollers| Northern Tool + Equipment
Also, its big brother,the PRT-36BH is available for $160 from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Brinly-PRT-36BH-690-Pound-Behind-36-Inch/dp/B002707H70)or $170 from Northern: (Brinly-Hardy Poly Lawn Roller — 690 Lbs., Model# PRT-36BH | Aerators Lawn Rollers| Northern Tool + Equipment)

Aaron Z

Almost all (if not all) of the JD L&G attachments are made by Brinly-Hardy, but they are made to JD's specs. For example, the plug aerators. Those made by B-H and sold at HD and similar places under the B-H label are nowhere near as heavily built as the version they produce for JD. I have owned several of their attachments made by B-H over the years, and still have the 48" plugger.

You are correct to make sure the roller is not a B-H ply or a steel one made by ohio Steel since many dealers only carry those models, but a quick look at them and then at the one like I have is all anyone needs to see there's a huge difference in them. The easiest thing to spot is the drawbar and cast iron pillow bearings.

 

[TnWV]

Thanks for all the comments and info. Looks like none of the TSC stores close to me have one in stock right now, so I'll be shopping around some. May even call a few rental yards and see what they may have. Renting a heavier unit may be a good choice if the local rental yards carry them.

I have considered building a roller. I have plenty of scrap iron laying around for the tongue, But I haven't been able to source material suitable for the roller. There isn't a ton of scrap yards around, and most will not let you browse through their yard.