Turbo NH 1620

[dieselcrawler]

Ive played with N/A diesels, added turbos, etc... had several GM 6.2L IDI's...

So what exactly is that cute lil turbo you put on there?

Have you checked boost psi?

 

[Whitbread]

Ive played with N/A diesels, added turbos, etc... had several GM 6.2L IDI's...

So what exactly is that cute lil turbo you put on there?

Have you checked boost psi?

It's the oem spec turbo for a yanmar 1.4L 3 cylinder 3tn84. I gave the link in ebay for it a few posts back. Wastegate is factory set at 10psi according to my temporary boost gauge.


Egt probe showed up today so I'll tap the manifold and get some readings. Target is 1150F of less sustained at max load, that's plenty safe for long term durability.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Oops, missed the link to the turbo... thanks, I checked it out.

Looks like you had to fab an outlet flange for the exhaust also? Do you have any further support for the muffler/stack, or is it all hanging cantilevered off the turbo housing?

 

[Whitbread]

Oops, missed the link to the turbo... thanks, I checked it out.

Looks like you had to fab an outlet flange for the exhaust also? Do you have any further support for the muffler/stack, or is it all hanging cantilevered off the turbo housing?

No worries!

Yes, I made an outlet flange also, I guess I didn't snap any pics of it during assembly haha. There's no further support on the muffler. It's within 1/2" of the distance from the muffler to engine as it was before, so if NH determined it didn't need any additional support, I don't think it does now either. I upped the idle to 1000rpm and it made the engine substantially smoother at idle and the exhaust stack doesn't wiggle at all anymore.



So I though I had the tractor pretty well sorted now, but lent it to my friend for 20 minutes and he manages to bend the auger. Claims he never felt it hit anything, but this is the last time he's allowed to borrow it haha. At least he gladly offered to help pull it apart and toss any $$ needed to fix it. Going to build a new shaft and weld the old corkscrew parts onto it. Bearings were shot anyway, so I guess it was time. Going to convert to some actual sealed ball bearings that are $10 each, not junk metal shields like NH used for $50 each.

 

[Whitbread]

I refuse to pay what NH wants for crap shielded bearings, so browsing of a bearing catalog turned up a 25mmx52mmx15mm sealed bearing that was on the shelf at the local napa for $16/ea. They cross over to a medium duty truck pilot bearing. As the shaft was 1", that meant only ~.015" needed turned off it to make it 25mm. For bearing carriers, I had some 3/8" plates waterjetted out to save time. I chucked them in the lathe and counterbored for the bearing to sandwich between the two plates and blower housing. I also made some shaft lock collars as those weren't available in town today.





New $24 piece of 2" sch40 pipe for the tube and the straighter side of the corkscew welded on. Coming back together!

 

[spitter]

Excellent work!! Diesels + Turbo = :dance1::drink:

 

[RickB]

I refuse to pay what NH wants for crap shielded bearings, so browsing of a bearing catalog turned up a 25mmx52mmx15mm sealed bearing that was on the shelf at the local napa for $16/ea. They cross over to a medium duty truck pilot bearing. As the shaft was 1", that meant only ~.015" needed turned off it to make it 25mm. For bearing carriers, I had some 3/8" plates waterjetted out to save time. I chucked them in the lathe and counterbored for the bearing to sandwich between the two plates and blower housing. I also made some shaft lock collars as those weren't available in town today.





New $24 piece of 2" sch40 pipe for the tube and the straighter side of the corkscew welded on. Coming back together!

That application would be much better served with spherical bearings supported in steel flanges. Cylindrical bearings will not last. Do it once, do it right.

 

[aczlan]

That application would be much better served with spherical bearings supported in steel flanges. Cylindrical bearings will not last. Do it once, do it right.

That is how Loftness built my 7' snowblower.

Aaron Z

 

[Whitbread]

That application would be much better served with spherical bearings supported in steel flanges. Cylindrical bearings will not last. Do it once, do it right.

What advantages would a curved outer race ball bearing offer over the straight race? A curved outer race and straight outer race 6205 bearing (what I'm using) have the same load capacities. If I ever get more than 2000lbs radial load and 1000lbs of axial load on each of these bearings or shaft rpm over 9k, I'm going to have far larger issues than bearings wearing out prematurely.

The setup you described is what was in there from NH with only shielded bearings and at 300 hours was completely junk. One inner bearing race was pounded hard onto/into the shaft and disentrated upon removal, other slipped off as it was supposed to but sounds like rocks in a coffee can haha. Simply replacing those bearings with sealed curved race would've been the least amount of work, but they aren't readily available in BFE. The 6205 bearing I'm using is in stock at Napa, auto value, and any of the truck shops in town.

 

[RickB]

Spherical bearings (also called self-aligning bearings) are used where shaft deflection and movement or damage to support members can and will cause the support member to vary from perfectly perpendicular to the shaft centerline where the shaft passes through the bearing. This has got nothing to do with strength. It is about radial loading on the bearing’s inner and outer races. As with anything, there are varying quality grades of spherical bearings available and high quality 1” versions are available in sealed and relube styles for about the same cost as your cylindrical bearings. Supporting flanges are cheap and durable.

I’m not suggesting the OEM bearing in that application is/was high quality or what you should have used. I AM saying the design is sound and the change you made is not something I would do under any circumstances. I suspect your modification will last a significantly lesser interval than what you took off.