Turfs - To load or not to load

[orlo]

Hi:

I know this topic has been discussed to death here but I figured I'd ask for opinions in my particular case.

I'm trading in my 3320 with loaded R4's for a 3720 with turfs. Now I need to figure out if I want to load the tires or not. Normally I'm a 'loaded tire' guy but I'm not sure if going unloaded will be better for mowing and ride quality. I figure the CAB will add some weight over the rear wheels but that will be high weight and I'd probably want to counteract that with some loading in the tires.

I'll probably end up loading the R3's unless I can think of reasons why I should.

Any opinions on the r3's?

Thanks,

 

[RoyJackson]

I would load those tires. As you wrote, the CAB will raise the center of gravity significantly.
If you're concerned about marking your lawn with filled tires, you could consider wheel weights as an alternative.

 

[orlo]

Thanks. I'm not concerned about marking the lawn as fully loaded R4's on my 3320 (no cab) really didn't bother it except when I turned sharp. I was more concerned about the compliancy of the tires and if loading them would limit my speed mowing.

I think I'll load em up. My 3320 (large) R4's took 900lbs of liquid (11lbs/gal stuff JD uses - Looks like molasses). I suspect the R3's will hold even more since I think they are a little wider.

 

[Thomas]

What type of mowing...rear or mid?...would your land be flat or w/slopes?

I agree w/RJ...weight on the rear just adds more safety....have you consider tire chains also???

 

[orlo]

The mowing is mostly flat about 6 acres with one short but steep grade (maybe 6-8' of gain over 25-35' ). I mow the top part of this sideways (with the 3320 and formerly a 2305) then go up and down as it get's steeper. With the 2305 I think I could have mowed the whole thing sideways but never chanced it. I really don't think I need chains as if I thought I did I'd probably just stick with R4's. I'm more worried about weight distribution and 'tippyness'.

I currently mow with a 72" MMM but am considering a big (110") RFM. I know when I ran unloaded R4's on the 3320 with an 84" RFM unless I locked the diff or was in 4wd the R4's would actually slip a little down that small slope. Once loaded it never happened again.

When I use a loader I also have a 1000lb+ ballast block (The JD Metal one with extension filled with hardened concrete) so Traction isn't an issue there either. (Unless I'm in mud then I'll wish I had R4's.). Although if I loaded the tires I might not always use the Ballast block.

 

[Oleozz]

On my JD 870 the turf tires were loaded and I was glad for it. I mowed my lawn and about 50 acres of bush hogging every year with them. I felt the extra weigh gave me more stability and also helped with the FEL work. The ride quality was excellent in the 870 with filled tires.

 

[art]

The type of tires makes little difference for ballasting a tractor for the job.

The boys can chew it up here any way they want but a constant heavy tractor wears out faster and the cost of operation goes up everyday the tractor moves.

To say that a 75% filled tire is going to give you better ballast then solid non-movable no-sloshing weight just doesn't work. The cast weight doesn't even take as much to offset the ineffective liquid.

We've loaded tires for years and we will keep on doing it for those that might need that type of ballast but it doesn't give the best overall efficency of the tractor.

The possibility that you might not need it goes away when it is added as it is considered more permenant weight then any other method.

 

[RoyJackson]

"The boys can chew it up here any way they want but a constant heavy tractor wears out faster and the cost of operation goes up everyday the tractor moves.
To say that a 75% filled tire is going to give you better ballast then solid non-movable no-sloshing weight just doesn't work."

For an Ag tractor that is operated several hundred to thousands of hours per year, you're probably right, Art.
And, those operators who run on slopes would probably go for the dual tires to ensure their tractors stability.

However, for we CUT owners who put a hundred hours (more or less) on their machines per year and want the maximum stability possible (considering how narrow most CUTs are), liquid ballast seems to be the best method as well as the safest (Installing and removing wheel weights could be difficult and dangerous, even when using a lifting device. Weights would also be less convenient which would quite likely reduce their use, IMHO).

Most tractor manuals (all Deere, BTW) I've read or scanned, suggested use of some kind of ballast. The Deere manuals go into both liquid (non-removable) and cast (removal) weights. The Deere manuals do instruct the wheel weights be removed when not required. Obviously, adding and removal or liquid ballast isn't too practical for most folks with CUTs.

Art, I'm granting you, as a tractor sales guy, have more experience then I do. I do think you're viewing ballasting from a person who makes their living working with tractors and owners who make their living on farms and agricultural occupations. Although there are probably several TBNer's who fall into those categories (as well as forestry work and others I can't think of at the moment), I believe most folks who frequent and post on this site are occasional users of their tractors and are not ag or commercials users.

 

[Nuru]

Thanks. I'm not concerned about marking the lawn as fully loaded R4's on my 3320 (no cab) really didn't bother it except when I turned sharp. I was more concerned about the compliancy of the tires and if loading them would limit my speed mowing.

I think I'll load em up. My 3320 (large) R4's took 900lbs of liquid (11lbs/gal stuff JD uses - Looks like molasses). I suspect the R3's will hold even more since I think they are a little wider.

Wheel hub extensions will widen the stance and help control roll/lean instability. The wider stance will help contain the tendency of the cab CUTs (3x20 and 4x20, ..etc), to rock when the tires are in the narrow postion when going over uneven terrain. Accordijng to my local dealer, especially the 3x20 series - i actually saw one guy really get a 3320 Cab rockin' pretty easy

 

[BobT_770]

Turfs are the best to fill as they are voluminous. My 770 with 70FEL could not back up in the woods with a bucket of wood. 32gal of windshield washer fluid per tire (tires have tubes) has changed the machine incredibly . Filling tires is common, and it keeps the weight off the axle (as does using cast wheel weights, but these are a chore to use if you install and remove with any regularity). A buddy has a 2WD 2750 AG machine workhorse from the 80's that has had the big rears professionally filled since with calcuim chloride or some such ballast. YMMV