Tx1500 hhydraulics problem

marcelPL · Oct 2, 2019

And again, new day, new problem.

Yesterday I changed hydraulics oil on my tx1500. I did it completely, take off differential and gearbox cover, cleaned inside, cleaned filter, put back together and hydraulics were working.

Today using the tiller, after 30 minutes the tiller could not be lifted anymore. Completely dead.

Can it be caused by oil? Here in Poland all they use is this 80/90 type of oil. I went to some special shop to ask, and they assured me it was ok.

Also I have this spare engine lying around. I was thinking to just swap the oilpump out to see if this would fix stuff. But there is this big piece of steel in the way (see image) . Can I just take this out without the tractor falling apart? I checked 2 of my manuals, but cannot find what is supporting it....

Really sorry to keep asking these questions. If I would have known about all these iseki problems I would have gone for Ursus traktor. At least they work...

Roadworthy · Oct 2, 2019

Unless I'm looking at the picture wrong the big piece of steel appears to be the radiator mount. If you have to remove the steel to gain access to the hydraulic pump you may have to remove the radiator as well. That type hydraulic pump rarely fails - it relies on the meshing of two gears to squeeze the hydraulic oil out under pressure. When my pump on my Mitsubishi tractor has failed it has been the shaft seal on the front of the pump allowing hydraulic oil to bleed into the crankcase overfilling it. I have been using #46 tractor hydraulic oil. 80/90 weight oil seems rather heavy for using in your tractor's hydraulic system, though. If you remove the upper and lower banjo fittings from the pump the only thing holding it will be the four bolts through its body. If you can loosen them you may be able to pull the pump back far enough and turn it slightly to remove it without disturbing the radiator. Clearances do look a bit tight. Note that some of these pumps turn clockwise while others turn counter clockwise. Look for an arrow on the pump body for direction of rotation.

chrismac · Oct 2, 2019

Marcel, I gather you dont have access to the 4 bolts holding the pump on? if so it will come off with out moving the radiator, that bolt hole that can be seen is that what the outer coweling was fixed by, or is that the bonnet hinge? its the 2 lower bolts you can see plus the other 2 on the other side that needs removed to move that part, but the hydraulic pump has little more than 1/2" (13mm) of a drive stub, or it did on my TX2160,

Slacken the small pipe leaving the pump further back somewhere , dont disconnect it just slacken it and you will soon know if your pump is working as if it is the oil will pour out when you start the tracter up, this I know as I had a hydraulic issue for a while and this confirmed my pump was fine,

Your just getting to know your tractor, you will know it inside out before long and it will be like an extension to you

Chris

marcelPL · Oct 3, 2019

Well i did a measure, but i cannot remove the pump without taking this steel off.

The funny thing is that i can reproduce this problem. This tx1500 is the one i got without the hydraulics unit on top of differential. So i got the part somewhere here in Poland.

When i followed the same ritual (empty oil, clean differential, gearbox, and filter, replace o-rings on piston, put everything back into place, put new oil) it did the same. It worked ok when i started the tractor, worked for about 30 minutes, and then nothing.

Maybe i will do this procedure one more time, and then sell the tractor. But i know i am selling someone a problem, and i am not this type of person. But it would fix my problem.

Now back to work on the electric problem of the tx1300f. Getting really tired of this. Sorry about my frustration.

chrismac · Oct 3, 2019

I really do not think your issue is the pump, your TX1500 is different from my TX2160, I think you might have a bleed screw under the seat somewhere for the hydraulic system, usually one cycle of the arms full up to full lower get all the air out the system, if you have spare O-rings (incase these get damaged not necessary but nice to have ) slacken the banjo fitting under the seat on the small diameter pipe from the pump, then start your tractor you will see if your pump is pumping, the oil will come gushing out if your pump is good.

Interested to hear how you get on,

Chris

marcelPL · Oct 21, 2019

Small update on this one: Once again i took everything apart. First i checked pumping when starting without throttle, and that was ok, Oil was pumping out.

So (again) took everything apart, changed oil, cleaned filter, made gaskets, and changed o-rings where needed/found.

Then put everything back together. After starting, hydraulics were running again. I took the iseki for a small drive to get it warmed up, without using hydraulics. Then i connected the tiller. The first couple of times it went up and down without problems.

After a few minutes i noticed a change in operation, it went slower, more shock wise. I thought i heard a hissing (?) sound. So i got off the tractor, trying to find the problem. It came from under the seat when i wanted to lift the tiller.

I checked, and found it was the rubber thing (plug?) that closes the opening where you poor the oil. The shape of this thing has somehow changed over it's 40 years existence, and when warming up it came out of the opening. Well not coming out, just allowed air to escape. I put some duck tape around the plug, hammered it in there, and the hydraulics were working properly

Did i already mention that i am an idiot?

I replaced oil, gaskets, o-rings and all now for 4 or 5 times (i lost count), only to find that the reason for this problem is as stupid as i am...

thanks for tips and motivational words...
M.