TX2140 with FEL 80w Gear Oil or UTF hydraulic (Tx2160,g154,tx1500,tx1300)

[Dave Colantuoni]

I've decided against the Renew type of oil, Softens seals scares me.

I'm going with a UTF.
They are about the same viscosity as 80W and are designed for Hydraulic systems.
Here's my logic.

If you believe the primary use of your tractor fluid is a
gear oil "for hypoid gears" going 90MPH down the high way
the I suggest sticking with rated SAE, API ....80-90 GL-5 or similar.
They are perfectly good Gear oils. Any of it will work fine
and I'm sure they are all Superior to the
strait 80W fluid the OEM ( Iseki)
installed and spec in there 1980 literature.

If you believe the primary use of use of your tractors fluid is
to run your hydraulics (FEL) at reasonable lift and lower times
without excessive foaming and run the FEL at colder temps.
And never get you tractor over 10MPH.
I suggest a fluid designed for Hydraulic and Gear use in Tractors
something labled Trans/Hydraulic Fluid.
IE:Travellerｮ Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid


I've listed all the fluids Hydraulic, Gear. UTF available at TS
and there Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F)
Notice the UTF viscosity at 100 F is right at in the middle of 80W.

Good chart on viscosity can be found at
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts

Travellerｮ Ford Tractor All Mineral 90 Transmission Fluid
ISO Viscosity Grade: 150
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 750
Flash Point: 455 deg. F
Pour Point: 0 deg. F

80 gear oil
Couldn't find any at TS
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 350-450


Xtremeｮ Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission Fluid
no info
Use where mid-viscosity range hydraulic fluid is required.
It is recommended for use in warmer climates

Travellerｮ Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid
ISO Viscosity Grade: Multi-Viscosity
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 400
Flash Point: 435 deg. F
Pour Point: -44 deg. F


Wlamart Super Tech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Fluid
No info


Travellerｮ RENEW Tractor Fluid
no info from TS
Viscosity @ 40ｰC, cSt 59.89
Viscosity @ 100ｰC, cSt 9.32 (SUS@100=355)
Viscosity Index 136
Pour Point -39ｰC
Flash Point 224ｰC
API Gravity 30.42
Brookfield Viscosity @ -39ｰC 55,188

Mystikｮ PL AW Hydraulic Oil ISO 68
ISO Viscosity Grade: 68
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 353
Flash Point: 465 Degrees F
Pour Point: -11 deg. F

Mystikｮ JT-5 Trans Hydraulic Fluid
Type: JT-5
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 288
Flash Point: 457 Degrees F
Pour Point: -36 deg. F

Mystikｮ PL AW Hydraulic ISO 46
ISO Viscosity Grade: 46
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 237
Flash Point: 425 Degrees F
Pour Point: -22 deg. F

Travellerｮ All Season Hydraulic Oil ISO 46
ISO Viscosity Grade: 46
Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F): 220
Flash Point: 405 deg. F
Pour Point: -26 deg. F

 

[Captdave55]

Hi guys,

Not trying to hijack your thread but I posted a similar question about a TX1410 (stamped on left frame rail) that I inherited from my dad and getting it back in working order. I pulled the dip stick for the transmission and its a milky beige to red tint of fluid. The hood on the tractors says Bolens G152 but its a 2WD with a 3 cylinder engine. The manual I have is for a G152 / TX1300 and most things are similar but the transmission/rear end shown in this manual is not what this tractor has and its calling for gear oil SAE 80W or Bolens 1738157.

On another note, I found on the net that TX1410 us a import model number and it suggested that TX 2140 was the domestic tractor. Can anyone confirm this?

TIA

 

[Dave Colantuoni]

Hey Cap Dave
Very old thread,
Dave Colantuoni here.
Are you in New England?

I can answer most of your questions.
I've owned 2 (and service a couple others) of these beast.
They are Great! units.

First off don't get wrapped around the axle with the model numbers.
It will take forever for me to decode them to you.
Most of model number info out on web is all half truths.
True Iseki branded units were almost never sold in US.
Bolens and White were the US importers and use there own numbers.


There are only several combination,
(manual/Hydo trans) with (4wd/2wd) with (big/little engine) with (2cly/3cly)

G152 is Bolens number for small engine (G=Gear Manual) (15=~15hp) (2=2wd)
Notice I did not mention number of Cylinders.

So, I believe You have a
Manual Transmission with Clutch,
2wd,
The little HP engine, (15HP vs 17hp)
3 cylinder Mitsubishi K3A engine (vs 2cyl Iseki engines)
This means you have a relatively newer (Bolens imported) unit late 80s-90s
One of the last ones Bolens imported.

Answer to Questions.
Milky fluid means water/air in oil,
Basic means your shifter boot is cracked and unit was left out in rain.
It's really the only place water can get in these guys besides condensation.
Get it out of there ASAP.
BTW: It will never settle out.

You may never find a user manual or service manual that has the your
3 cylinder Mitsubishi K3A engine included.
Doesn't matter everything else is identical, except you hood is 3" longer than older units.
You can get a Mitsubishi K3A Diesel repair book.
That engine is used in 100s of applications (boats,generators,welders,Bobcats,tractors).

For Manual transmission Bolens speced two different "Gear Oils"
Buried deep in the fine print it says,
80w gear oil for units without FEL (Front End Loaders)
Or
A secret special Bolens/Isekei 1738157 fluid with FEL

Only warning for 80w Gear Oil is
Make sure you do not use GL5 80w,
Must be older GL4 or less (GL5 dissolves some bronze parts).

If you have a FEL (that shares the "Trans Gear Oil")
you need a slightly different "fluid".
It's one that is a Gear-oil/Hydraulic fluid.
Don't get this confuse with the Hydro/Automatic driven tractors (no clutch)
which use an entirely different fluid.
Use any "Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid"
Tractor supply carries several brands/weights.
A thinner on (ISO-46 ) will make you FEL run quicker
A thicker one (ISO-68 ) will make you FEL run slower
80-90w (ISO-150) will make your FEL very slow
(mine would even not go down at 30 degrees)

BTW: This is the same stuff all manual trans Massey/JohnDear/Kabota's/.... use.
Heck it's a good chance Iseki manufactured any one of them.

Dave

 

[Captdave55]

Hi Dave,

So, I believe You have a
Manual Transmission with Clutch,
2wd,
The little HP engine, (15HP vs 17hp)
3 cylinder Mitsubishi K3A engine (vs 2cyl Iseki engines)
This means you have a relatively newer (Bolens imported) unit late 80s-90s
One of the last ones Bolens imported.

I think you nailed it!
The Engine is a K3A-11GT

Thanks for the great info! Yes, the boot is cracked a bit and I'm sure it got some water in that way. Someone on another forum recommended using ATF in it but just didn't sound right.

Pick up a 4' bush hog and got it on last week and tested it out over the weekend up at the farm and was really impressed with what it could do for such a small tractor.

I'm located in Atlanta, GA

 

[Dave Colantuoni]

Glad to help,
Like I said at one time I was wrenching on 4 of these for myself and friends.
Only week part of these machine was the weight limit (FEL) on front 4x4 axle
and the clutch seem to have issue around 800-1000 hours.

Right now I have a similar late 80-90 machine but it's equipped a little more.
It's a true ISEKI TX-2140
It has 4wd, Agi Tires, FEL and Backhoe
https://picasaweb.google.com/diesel.dave.c/ISEKI_2140#5493238886105711826
I had an older Bolens G154 (4WD, 2 clydr Iseki) look just like yours.
I believe it had frame model Isek TX-1310

Warning:
With the Brush hog you may want to get and external override gear for the rear PTO.
I had a Big Brush hog on mine and the inertia from the big high speed heavy blades
would keep Mine driving the wheels for a long time.
The clutch stops the engine driving the wheels but the PTO is hard connected to the rear wheels.


Use the UTF.
The Hydraulic fluid it is designed not to foam up, ATF is not.
In Atlanta with no FEL you might also want the heaver UTF ISO-68.
Here Up in the north country I went with the lighter ISO-46
One of the uses for my machine is to Push back snow banks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vw2SkNnK8Q4


FYI:
Add a little chainsaw/boat 2 cycle oil to the diesel fuel.
Our machines have gear driven HighPressure injector pumps.
The current Diesel is missing Sulfur and other stuff.
That use to lube the pump gears.
Some Guys use 30W or ATF
but I think the chainsaw oil made to be burned in an engine
has less junk in it.
Also Might want to clean you fuel bowl/filter (up here in north) it gets loaded with wax.



Dave

Hi Dave,



I think you nailed it!
The Engine is a K3A-11GT

Thanks for the great info! Yes, the boot is cracked a bit and I'm sure it got some water in that way. Someone on another forum recommended using ATF in it but just didn't sound right.

Pick up a 4' bush hog and got it on last week and tested it out over the weekend up at the farm and was really impressed with what it could do for such a small tractor.

I'm located in Atlanta, GA

View attachment 429085
View attachment 429086

 

[Captdave55]

Warning:
With the Brush hog you may want to get and external override gear for the rear PTO.
I had a Big Brush hog on mine and the inertia from the big high speed heavy blades
would keep Mine driving the wheels for a long time.
The clutch stops the engine driving the wheels but the PTO is hard connected to the rear wheels.

Doesn't seem to be the case with this one, when the clutch is depressed the tractor stops while the blades free wheel to a stop when testing it in the shop. Was cutting some fairly heavy weeds/grass/briers that was knee deep at 2400 RPM 3rd gear low range and the PTO in second and did a really nice job and only a few times could you hear the engine needed to power up on the governor in some spots.

Ended up changing the tranny fluid and used the recommended 80# gear oil as described on the decal under the hood. Hadn't seen it before as it was covered in grime!

The original fuel filter assembly was leaking and the plastic bowl was so old that you couldn't see through it so replace it with an OEM from Sam's Bolens parts last fall. Changed engine oil with Shell Rotella T and a Wix filter along with flushing the radiator and new coolant. Also replaced the low oil pressure switch that no longer worked along with the seat that had rotted out and 2 new front tires.

May replace the 2 rear tires this fall as they are dry rotted with some AG tires possibly this style Two New 29 12 50 15 29 1250x15 Carlisle 6 Ply Compact Tractor AG R 1 Lug Tires | eBay Haven't spent much time looking at tires so there maybe a better alternative out on the market.

FYI:
Add a little chainsaw/boat 2 cycle oil to the diesel fuel.
Our machines have gear driven HighPressure injector pumps.
The current Diesel is missing Sulfur and other stuff.
That use to lube the pump gears.
Some Guys use 30W or ATF
but I think the chainsaw oil made to be burned in an engine
has less junk in it.
Also Might want to clean you fuel bowl/filter (up here in north) it gets loaded with wax.

Hadn't thought about the new blend of diesel fuel and its effect on older pumps. I would have to agree with the 2 cycle oil addition as lubrication is its primary purpose.


Dave

 

[SmashOgre]

Hi guys,

Not trying to hijack your thread but I posted a similar question about a TX1410 (stamped on left frame rail) that I inherited from my dad and getting it back in working order. I pulled the dip stick for the transmission and its a milky beige to red tint of fluid. The hood on the tractors says Bolens G152 but its a 2WD with a 3 cylinder engine. The manual I have is for a G152 / TX1300 and most things are similar but the transmission/rear end shown in this manual is not what this tractor has and its calling for gear oil SAE 80W or Bolens 1738157.

On another note, I found on the net that TX1410 us a import model number and it suggested that TX 2140 was the domestic tractor. Can anyone confirm this?

TIA

Hi Cap Dave, I’m a relatively new Iseki owner in Ringgold, Ga and I’m suffering with the cracked boot milky oil problem also. Did you get your shift boot replaced, if so, where did you source the part? As far as the thread, I’ve put TSC UTF in mine - lack of experience and no manual - and so far it works ok but I don’t want to ruin my equipment. With no FEL on my Iseki, I read I should be using GL 1-3 80w or similar? What did you ultimately decide on?

 

[SmashOgre]

Doesn't seem to be the case with this one, when the clutch is depressed the tractor stops while the blades free wheel to a stop when testing it in the shop. Was cutting some fairly heavy weeds/grass/briers that was knee deep at 2400 RPM 3rd gear low range and the PTO in second and did a really nice job and only a few times could you hear the engine needed to power up on the governor in some spots.

Ended up changing the tranny fluid and used the recommended 80# gear oil as described on the decal under the hood. Hadn't seen it before as it was covered in grime!

The original fuel filter assembly was leaking and the plastic bowl was so old that you couldn't see through it so replace it with an OEM from Sam's Bolens parts last fall. Changed engine oil with Shell Rotella T and a Wix filter along with flushing the radiator and new coolant. Also replaced the low oil pressure switch that no longer worked along with the seat that had rotted out and 2 new front tires.

May replace the 2 rear tires this fall as they are dry rotted with some AG tires possibly this style Two New 29 12 50 15 29 1250x15 Carlisle 6 Ply Compact Tractor AG R 1 Lug Tires | eBay Haven't spent much time looking at tires so there maybe a better alternative out on the market.



Hadn't thought about the new blend of diesel fuel and its effect on older pumps. I would have to agree with the 2 cycle oil addition as lubrication is its primary purpose.


Dave

Regarding the PTO being connected to the rear wheels, mine has a lever that changed the relationship of the PTO to the transmission. I can disable it, or set it independent of the rear wheels or connect it to the rear wheels with the clutch being the ultimate disconnect.