Underpowered 3130 back from dealer....

   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #41  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( but I thought endless amonts of dead weight can only be good right...? )</font>


Based on my wifes family...going to have to say no. Talk about black smoke belching power robbing agitators...


Mike
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #42  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( but I thought endless amonts of dead weight can only be good right...? )</font>


Based on my wifes family...going to have to say no. Talk about black smoke belching power robbing agitators...


Mike )</font>

ROTFLMBO! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'll assume your wife does not regularly read the forum. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #43  
I'd like to add a correction to my posts about a 20% slope. The tilt meter is measuring degrees not slope. A 20% slope is much steeper than a 20 deg slope. Sorry for any confusion.

I'm almost beggining to wonder if I got the performance model? I've got a little over 600 hours on the tractor now and bought it when the Grand L first came out. I still remember thinking the tractor was poochy at first until learning how the hydro works.

I used to do everything in low until getting some technique on the peddle. Then discovered I could do all but the heaviest work faster in medium more often than not using a gentle touch.

High range is poochy though...no getting around that one.

Its been a great tractor. My FIL is a heavy equipment operator and thinks the power is decent as well.
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #44  
"High range is poochy though...no getting around that one."

That's the really odd thing I have found on my L3830. Prior to it I had the L48. The final drive on the L3830 is spur gear, the L48 is planetary. Other then that, the HST is virtually identical. There are very different speeds in L and M but H was almost identical at 0-17mph. The L48 could barely get out of it's own shadow in high. It was a transport gear all the way. The slightest incline forced a downshift to M. The L3830 does not suffer from this nearly to that extent. I have even found myself mowing in H and not knowing it. That sounds impossible but the way I use HST, is exactly what happens. The funny thing is all my mowing is either on the sides of hills, or up and down the hills and yet with the L3830, I can be fooled when mowing as to the range I'm in between M and H. I always know when I'm in low. I have to chalk it up to the weight difference. The L48 was also ballasted but also 10 HP greater.
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #45  
Rat may be onto something when he asks about the weight. I got to checking and the LA723 loader weighs about 1400lbs, the BH90 hoe is about 2000lbs with frame fastening hardware, add about 1000lbs for loaded R4 tires, about 350lbs for the cab and around another 200lbs for operator weight(Sorry Ramon I don't know your exact weight). Add it all up and you come out with about 5000lbs additional weight! That's without having a load of wet dirt in the front bucket.

An L3130 alone weighs only around 3200lbs. Can you really expect a 30HP tractor to have the equivalent of the weight of an additional L3130 plus a B7800 placed on it and then go merily up a steep grade? I wonder if the weight of these heavier duty attachments plus loaded tires is a little much for the L3130's engine and might be better suited to the 3830 and up unless your on flat ground.

I have a 2WD L3130 and I've been quite impressed with its' power, but I don't have any attachments on it. I do have loaded turf tires, but I can always remove that weight, but I think the additional 800lbs matches well with the horsepower of the tractor. Additional weight is only good up to a point. Adding too much is as bad or worse than too little. Too little and you spin tires, wasting HP. Too much and you wind up stalling the engine which appears it might be Ramon's problem.
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #46  
RaT, You've got a good point on the ballast. Mine was a bit more lively with the BH off and the rear blade on. I was of the mind that it was just the thing to do when I bought mine... so I would never have to worry when using the front loader. Hadn't thought it all the way thru at purchase time. Currently, and for most of my envisioned uses (now), I have the BH on it unless I'm using the TPH.... which is quite seldom. So that even strengthens your comments. I'm nearly always going to be rear ballasted with something hanging out back there. Maybe that fluid should go. Even if after my heavy digging work is mostly done in a couple of years, I decide to run it with the FEL only, a ballast box would do the trick.... if it's even necessary.

I should have asked my salesman again on the ballasted weight. I mistook the weight at 450 lbs. overall when we discussed it. Now I know that it was per tire or 900 lbs. total. The manual reads slightly more if calcium is used but no matter, it's near a half ton either way.

You've got me thinkin about givin some soil a drinkin... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Got to see what they used for antifreeze. Know it wasn't calcium. Thought he said alcohol based. Guess the dealer can handle that if it's toxic. I might even be able to hit a happy medium (partial drain) where I get some performance gains and still have some below axle weight for the side slopes and for loader work without other rear ballast. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Could this put me at or below 7,000 lbs for my trailer size decision. Yup!

Thanks
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #47  
Chris, on side slopes where the real tractor anxiety comes, I quite frankly did not feel any more or less secure ballasted or unballasted. I don't know what my slope is, suffice it to say, with R4's, I will slip down the hill. I am always extra cautious and have my hand on the wheel ready to turn downhill if I feel the slightest uphill tires lift. I also slow down to prevent a jounce or bounce from accelerating my tilt momentum. All I can say is that with unballasted tires, I feel a whole lot more nimble. Perhaps it's my soil conditions, but when pulling my 1000lb boxscraper loaded, in low, I run out of power before I run out of traction, and that's with R4's. I'd give unballasted tires a try. You can easily reballast them yourself. Of course where I live, we don't freeze so the antifreeze is not needed but even so, I added used antifreeze in my old tractor with a adapter for the fill valve, a hose and a funnel. It also requires a floor jack or equivalent.
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #48  
Mowing in high gear on level ground would be ok. Typical mowing speed is 4.5mph with a 6' finish mower. Would mow faster if it was smoother. Its easier to keep the speed steady in medium. Trying to mow in high up the sides of my drive would probably pull it down to about 3.5mph.

Going up the drive in medium with the loader ~850 carrying a trash can and BB~700 it will run 6.8 mph. With the BH ~1300 and loader it runs 6.4. Using high it runs about 5.6 mph. So high pretty much only gets used on the road.

The only time high is really used is on the road from one end of the property to the other, 1/4 mile. There is a dip in the middle. So it runs up to 17mph on the down side fine and to drops to 12 on the up. Thats about all the high gear experiance I get.
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #49  
FarmerEd,

What you say makes a lot of sense. I think you have the answer to his problem.

Tractors just aren't designed to go fast up steep hills, for whatever reason. They excel in low speed, high torque situations. My 2910 (which probably weighs half of the 3010 in question) does not like steep hills and high gear. Yet it is far overpowered compared to other tractors in it's size/weight range. In fact, it's rated almost identically to the 3010 at 30 gross hp.
 
   / Underpowered 3130 back from dealer.... #50  
<font color="blue"> I'd like to add a correction to my posts about a 20% slope. The tilt meter is measuring degrees not slope. A 20% slope is much steeper than a 20 deg slope. Sorry for any confusion. </font>

CTyler,

I think you got that backwards.

Percent slope is rise over run, which would make a 100% slope equal to 45 degrees.

Without doing the math (now my bedtime /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ) I am pretty sure a slope given in degrees is always steeper than a slope with the same number, but given in percent...

In otherwords, a 20 deg slope is much steeper than a 20% slope.
 

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