Understanding I-match

[JCB]

MX,

"So it sounds like the "height" of the top link is the limiter on the I-match"

I don't know if it's a limit per se.

I've got a Deere rotary cutter, and a king kutter rear blade, rake and middle buster. For a while I was using the lowest hook position on the speeco (similar to imatch height...I think) then I needed to go to the uppermost hook position to hook up the older DEERE rotary cutter. The blade and rake had holes in two positions so it was simply a matter of moving their pins to the top position. I don't think the middle buster would have worked with the hook in the lower position at all.

Long story short, by moving to the top position so far I've been able to use all attachments.

I mentioned earlier that the clones probably didn't have the same quality control as Deere. When I got the Speeco it was usually a bit of a struggle to get the implements onto the narrow (26-27") lower arms. I stood the Speeco on it's side and put a jack between the lower arms and was able to spread the lower arms another half-inch to an inch. It made all the difference in the world. Much, much easier now, and works like it should. I don't know if you'd need to do the same thing with an imatch, but be ready for something similar if you go with a clone.

Overall I'm happy with it and would say it's worthwhile trade-off to get the adjustable top hook.

 

[mx125]

I think I really do need to measure it up and see what will work. I think I understand now how what needs to happen. And undterstand that my tiller (any tiller) could have been built to any height . .so upper and lower pin holes have no relationship to the LX5 dual pin heights. Sorry . .that should have occurred to me.

I should have been armed with all my spacings before I asked for all your help! It's just that my implements are an hour drive away . . and I was hoping to pick up a hitch this week. My dealer might even let me take an imatch with the option to return if it measures out incorrectly.

The Harbour Freight looks perfect from the online picture. Crazy cheap too . . however in CDA I don't know where to get one. And TSC tells me they don't stock hitch adapters.

So I'll get my measurements and keep digging . . and possibly try an i-match . . .but at least now i'm full of resources and info!

Thanks again!

 

[mx125]

Sorry . . one more question. I understand the bushing function on the lower male pins. But my tiller attachment is as follows . . . .

My lower arms normally attach by placing the arm between two metal fingers and a pin is placed through the fingers and the lower arm hole . . like the link pin on a normal top link connection.

Are bushings needed? Assuming the spacing matches the hitch is it possible. The JD dealer told me that won't wok with imatch . . . only exposed male pins/busings work. Is that true?

Also, in Canada the imatch seems to be about about 300 USD equivalent and includes no bushing sets. Those are about 40 USD a pop. So $420 US for imathc and 3 implements. I called speeco and they gave me two canadian distributors . .i called them and they say they don't know what I'm talking about. A new holland dealer can order a land pride adjustable quick hitch, but that is over $500. Ugg.

 

[jdbower]

The bottom hooks of an iMatch are just that, hooks. As long as you have the clearance below the pins to bring in these hooks you should be OK (I can get you a picture if you need one, or if you have a picture of the fingers I can guess if there will be issues).

As far as bushings go, it depends on the size of the pins. If the pins are chunky enough you may be able to forgo the bushings. If not, you can also move the bushings from equipment to equipment rather than buying a set for each - violates some of the ease of use of an iMatch in that you can't detach and reattach from the driver's seat but you still get the ease of coupling (and you can add more bushings later if you see fit). As a disclaimer, since my tiller is the only equipment I have that really benefits from an iMatch (and I need to attach the PTO anyway) I rarely use mine. I'll probably be getting a box blade at some point where the iMatch may be more useful to me.

 

[JCB]

Sorry . . one more question. I understand the bushing function on the lower male pins. But my tiller attachment is as follows . . . .

My lower arms normally attach by placing the arm between two metal fingers and a pin is placed through the fingers and the lower arm hole . . like the link pin on a normal top link connection.

Are bushings needed? Assuming the spacing matches the hitch is it possible. The JD dealer told me that won't wok with imatch . . . only exposed male pins/busings work. Is that true?

MX,

I think you are describing a "captured" linkage. You'd have to get pretty lucky for a captured linkage to work out of the box. I think the prohibitive limiting factor will be the excessive width of the imatch lower connection. You'd need at least an inch and a half width between your "fingers" to clear the gusset plates that shore up the lower hook connection on the speeco, and have the proper width to boot.

Otherwise in your situation the exposed male bushings aren't critical. You will want to get some internal bushings to get the cat 3 diameter though, otherwise you'll have some slop in the linkage that I wouldn't want on a pto driven implement. I often drop a standard cat 1 drawbar in my speeco w/o bushings. Yeah, there is some slop as the lower hooks are meant for cat 3 size, but the cat 1 drawbar doesn't fall out and I'm not hooking up a pto off the drawbar so, for me, the slop is ok...it just doesn't fit tight.

Bummer on your prices. You might get lucky on ebay.

Joe

 

[orlo]

One note on the one from Harbor freight (I bought 2 for $60 something - I want to weld up a loader mount implement mover).

The top hook is adjustable and I did need to grind the hook as was mentioned earlier to get it to fit (no big deal). Problem is that the top hook (cast iron) is adjustable with bolts. The plates that fit over the hook (and take the bolts) make the hook effectively 'wider'. There are implements that have very narrow spacing between the top plates where the top link goes. The Harbor freight quick hitch will not fit these since the extra width (1/2"+) of the plates holding the hook will not fit in between the plates on the implement.

You will not have this problem with all implements. The JD ones are designed fixed height so the entire hook is welded onto the frame and narrow.

 

[mx125]

MX,

I think you are describing a "captured" linkage. You'd have to get pretty lucky for a captured linkage to work out of the box. I think the prohibitive limiting factor will be the excessive width of the imatch lower connection. You'd need at least an inch and a half width between your "fingers" to clear the gusset plates that shore up the lower hook connection on the speeco, and have the proper width to boot.

Otherwise in your situation the exposed male bushings aren't critical. You will want to get some internal bushings to get the cat 3 diameter though, otherwise you'll have some slop in the linkage that I wouldn't want on a pto driven implement. I often drop a standard cat 1 drawbar in my speeco w/o bushings. Yeah, there is some slop as the lower hooks are meant for cat 3 size, but the cat 1 drawbar doesn't fall out and I'm not hooking up a pto off the drawbar so, for me, the slop is ok...it just doesn't fit tight.

Bummer on your prices. You might get lucky on ebay.

Joe

Joe . .you've got me exactly. And that IS a good point. I will have to measure that width exactly .and as you say . . get very lucky. It's too bad it's this hard. And on the post after yours from orlo, he also makes the point that the adjustable harbour freight has an even wider top hook. I was ready to drive to Buffalo and get the harbour freight . . how can you beat $80!! But now i'll have to be super dilligent and still wonder. And I would guess modifying a "capture linkage" would be a serious job . . and not one I could do properly.

I suppose I could screw the tiller and just remove the quick hitch/i-match when I need to till. But, in that case I wouldn't want to spend $500 . . i'll measure up for the Harbour freight.

I now have more uncertaintly . . .but I would not have made that width measurement without your comment . . so you might have saved me an expensive error. Thanks for that.

 

[JerryG]

Hey you stole my AVATAR
I TOTALLY stole your avatar. Sorry! ........... I'll take it down . .in retrospect . . it was a bad idea.
I don't think that he meant it the way you took it; see he put a face afterward. It makes a cool avatar for both of you.
If he had made some modifications to it and then you used it that would be different. I know that I looked all over for the one that I wanted. When I found it, I modified it so that it would be different. Then straight way, two different people as he said stole it. That is why I changed it yet again and I really don't like the way that it is now, but when I scan a thread for one of my posts, I have a hard time finding it if my avatar isn't different.
Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

 

[mx125]

Hey you stole my AVATAR
I TOTALLY stole your avatar. Sorry! ........... I'll take it down . .in retrospect . . it was a bad idea.
I don't think that he meant it the way you took it; see he put a face afterward. It makes a cool avatar for both of you.
If he had made some modifications to it and then you used it that would be different. I know that I looked all over for the one that I wanted. When I found it, I modified it so that it would be different. Then straight way, two different people as he said stole it. That is why I changed it yet again and I really don't like the way that it is now, but when I scan a thread for one of my posts, I have a hard time finding it if my avatar isn't different.
Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

I agree . .he was completely nice about it . and he seemed to be just hitting me with some friendly teasing. I originally thought it would be so generic so as to blend in . . but when i saw his post below mine . . as you said it made my posts look like Kenny posts. That would confuse him and others. So i should modify something or change a colour etc. Thanks for the support . . I'm going to make something a little more unique!

 

[kennyd]

Just to clarify, I was kidding, I don't care if you use it, I stole it off of the JD website, I certainly do not own it! All is good here

Back to the Imatch:
Its a shame the prices are so high up there But I think the HF one is a long term mistake, Just from a quality point of view. You bought a JD because you thought it was the best, so don't hang a HF piece of crap on the back just because it's a few bucks cheaper.
***THAT IS JUST MY OPINION, IT MAY BE WORTH WHAT YOU PAID FOR IT***

I am also sure you will be hooking up and taking off the mower and the ballast box allot more that the tiller, so I would not let that be a deal breaker for me. You only need the tiller 2 time a years right?

As for the Landpride and HF adjustable top hook, I just do not see the point in it myself. If you need to adjust the hook for each implement, it kinda takes the "quick" out of quickhitch for me

Bushings are needed, but they do not need to be the $40.00 JD ones. You can get close to the size required buy using black pipe, or other bushing from a local farm supply store like TSC if there is any up there.