Update 425GT ongoing cam shaft repair

[BCWoodtick]

Figured I would start a new thread of where I'm at. ...
So from start had issues starting 425... came up with faulty cam shaft which it was. I have removed engine from tractor removed crank cover and was very easy to remove cam shaft, just have to make sure to line up the crank shaft mark with cam shaft mark. Purchased the kit for cam shaft repair. Also had to replace h2o pump gear and oil pump gear.
As I've stated in previous post I'm not a mechanic. So started to remove springs on valves and with great difficulty removed first valve spring. With it knowing I didn't realize should have turned shaft to get piston at top of stroke so that the valve couldn't fall into chamber. Which is exactly what happened..... so now I'm wishing I purchased the bigger kit that included the head gaskets....
So removed carb and everything on top to remove the one head and removed valve.
I do have a couple questions....
First - I picked a gasket material up but wondering if it is good for the head gasket? Says rubber and fiber material for gas, water and oil? Was going to try and cut one but thinking should just order a new head gasket? Need to order a new valve spring top keeper as it went flying when trying to instal new springs.
Second question is that I reset gap on valves and wondering how snug the feeler gauge should be? I've never done it before.
Now that I have the carb out should I clean it? And not sure how to go about it?
Thanks

 

[RandyT]

You will need to order a new head gasket. the normal gasket material that you purchased doesn't work for heads. Also valve clearances are set with a slight resistance when moving the feeler gauge with the gap. It is a relative feeling, just a slight drag on the gauge. If the engine was running fine with the camshaft bit the dust, then I wouldn't worry about cleaning the carb, unless the engine has set for several months, and the gas has gone bad.

 

[tomplum]

Randyt gave good advice, though if there is any question on the carb or possible debris - I'd give it a quick clean. Drop the bowl to inspect anyways and clean main. Especially if the carb was out of position and the possibility of debris existed.

 

[BCWoodtick]

Thanks guys,
Randy so the feeler gauge shouldn't be hard to push through the gap? I do have it fairly snug so thinking to back it off a touch.
Tom it has ran good over the years but I have never torn it down or done anything with the carb, What do I clean it with?
I did buy some sea foam but thought it shouldn't come into contact with plastic?
Also is there anything good to help get the old gaskets off the surfaces? Tried sea foam but doesn't seem to help much.
Thanks

 

[BCWoodtick]

Well, need some more advise guys.... Putting everything back together and when I was torquing down crank case cover I snapped bolt number one???
Several questions...
Obviously I need to remove cover and remove snapped bolt, do u need to replace gasket again if it hasn't been run?
Also wondering about crankshaft seal?
Much appreciated for advise.

 

[tomplum]

If you have no physical damage to the gasket it should be fine.Dress it if you think you should. Leave the seal in its bore and use caution that you don't flip the lip on re installation. Question that torque wrench plus chase and clean the threads in the block. BTW, bring the cover up to the proper torque in thirds so it gets evenly drawn up.

 

[BCWoodtick]

Ya that's what I was doing, went from 10nm to 18nm to 25nm. Shop manual says final 23-28nm? Wondering if I should change all my bolts out if it was just a fluke?
That water pump bolts have some rust on then so thinking maybe should change those out too?
Any thoughts?

 

[crazyal]

What size bolts are these? I'm assuming that they are either 5/16 grade 5 or 8 or maybe 3/8? If so 28nm shouldn't of broke it. That's about 20 ft/lbs. I would assume either the bolt was bad (ad would replace them all just to be safe) or be worried that your torque wrench is out of adjustment. If you do replace them make sure to get the exact same length and grade (if you don't buy them from the dealer). Since I don't like to do things over I probably would replace all of them and do like Tom said, chase the threads out with the correct size tap.

 

[BCWoodtick]

Yes, I will do in at the dealer in Monday and get them to order all crankcase and Ware pump bolts I think to be sure. Crankcase ones didn't look bad but obviously had a weak one? I think they are 3/8 and have a 7 stamped in them.
Also using a new torque wrench (50-250 in-pounds) so don't think that's what it was?
Water pump ones don't look near as good, so will change all of those as well.
Will look at chasing the thread or as well.

 

[RandyT]

Thanks guys,
Randy so the feeler gauge shouldn't be hard to push through the gap? I do have it fairly snug so thinking to back it off a touch.
Tom it has ran good over the years but I have never torn it down or done anything with the carb, What do I clean it with?
I did buy some sea foam but thought it shouldn't come into contact with plastic?
Also is there anything good to help get the old gaskets off the surfaces? Tried sea foam but doesn't seem to help much.
Thanks

Back the clearance off slightly. You should feel some light resistance to moving the feeler gauge back and forth in the valve gap, but shouldn't have to push or tug to move it back and forth.