Update to JD 755 challenges - 2 obstacles remain

[Moukie]

Good morning from sunny SC. I am happy to say that i finally got to use my 755 for a little while; wow, what a difference having 4WD makes! No more spinning and getting stuck. This is great. Also nice to know that i have super oil pressure. Thank you for all the help you all have offered up.

Still more issues to tackle. I hope these are minor, and just the result of needing a little adjustment. The worst issue i still have that i am aware of is hydrostatic creep. Fortunately, my park brake works very well. But my machine will always creep forward or reverse, depending on where the pedals are. They never seem to return all the way to "zero". I have checked all linkage, and lubricated all points. I even tightened the return spring, but still no luck. I am a bit reluctant to go moving/adjusting settings because everything does work; it just creeps a bit. Is there a procedure somewhere that illustrates how to set/reset linkages? I have not found one in my searches, and the manual is not very helpful.

The other issue comes from lack of knowledge. My machine has most labels missing, so i have had to figure out what knob does what through trial and error. I now think i know what they are. But, what is the standard process for shifting in and out of slow/neutral/fast, and 2WD/4WD? Is it to be done on the fly, or stopped, or with the brake depressed? Does it really matter? Are there any strong do's/don'ts that could damage the machine? I did note that the lever to go from slow to neutral did not want to move at all while i was using it the other day. For safety reasons, should i shift hydro to neutral each time i get off and leave tractor running? If yes, any thoughts on why mine would be very difficult to get out of slow?

Again, thank you so much for all the help. I think i will enjoy using this machine. It is a completely different machine with the 4WD working properly.

David in sunny, but cold, SC

 

[pipsqueek]

Can't remember which you have? Operator manual and/or service manual TM1360 has the Machine Operation Checkout procedure, lists reasons if some operation is not correct and the remedy. Operator manual has "Driving/operating the tractor" levers etc, section.

Search TM1360, first search item, Golftech.us link has pdf service manual FREE

Operator manual $26.97

OPERATORS MANUAL FOR JOHN DEERE 655 755 855 955 TRACTOR OWNERS SN �1���1-UP | eBay

 

[pipsqueek]

Machine operational check

 

[Moukie]

Thank you for the reply pipsqueak! You are correct; I have the TM1360, but not the Operator's Manual. Was sort of going to avoid buying any more if I did not need it. The real question I have first is when can I shift from H-N-L, and from 2WD-4WD, and is there a process I have to do to make it easier on the tractor? Do I need to be stopped and in neutral to go 2WD to 4WD, and do I need to engage parking break to shift out of neutral? I have read somewhere to not use the locking rear diff when in 4WD, so I will not do that. But, as for other functions, is everything just sort of "shift-on-the-fly" since this is full hydrostatic? I want to try to take care of this machine as much as possible, while continuing to fix all the broken devices/features. I already see that most or all of my safety devices have been removed or jumped. I would not think that is uncommon, but also am reading up in the service manual to better understand some of the safety features, and may hook some back up if I choose to.
In the ~1 hour I have gotten to use the machine, I have noted that it is very difficult to get out of low range. Basically, it will not come out. I finally got it out, but can't remember if I was stopped or moving, and if I did anything "special" to get it out of gear. That made me wonder if there are special procedures that need to be followed to safeguard the hydros and geartrain. I hate to buy owners manual to find that out.

Thanks for your help. Any thoughts about my issues?

David in SC

 

[hotrod1016]

I have found that I have to be stopped to switch between high gear and low gear. Sometimes I can let it creep and it will switch ranges easier. As far as the 4wd it is shift on the fly as long as all 4 wheels are turning the same speed. Even in 4wd it's still 2wd. The tractor has open diffs in the front and back. If it is really slick like at my place I use the diff lock while in 4wd to get 4wd. But I do not turn while the diff is locked. I also notice it is easier to switch in and out of 4wd while the front tires are straight ahead.

 

[beenthere]

Just don't shift gears on the fly.. such as H-N-L and into 4wd.. or rear diff lock. No need to put park brake on, just not be moving.
Those gears need to mesh and if one or the other is moving, then some clashing of teeth will take place. I will shift out of 4wd on the move, or as I change directions.

Hydro forward and reverse ok not to be stopped..

 

[pmsmechanic]

Probably the reason it was so hard to get out of low range was because there was some pressure on the gears. I usually try to shift ranges when I'm completely stopped. You can shift on a hill though level is easier. If you shift on a hill apply the brakes enough to hold the tractor from rolling and slightly push on one or the other hydrostatic control pedal to take the pressure off of the internal gears. With slight pressure on the shift leaver you should be able to feel the pressure come off of the gears and the shift lever can then move. Practice a bit on level ground and you'll "feel" what I mean.

 

[kmmn]

My 1995 vintage 755 has creeped from day one. It has only ever been back to the shop one time in 1999 to install the front end loader and I asked the mechanic about the creeping... he said it was fairly common and the fix was to pull the engine and machine the plate (flywheel?) smooth. He said as long as the parking brake will hold it, just use that, so I sort of lost interest in seeing exactly what was involved at that point. Over time I've come to accept it somewhat, but it's still annoying.

 

[Mechanos]

My 1995 vintage 755 has creeped from day one. It has only ever been back to the shop one time in 1999 to install the front end loader and I asked the mechanic about the creeping... he said it was fairly common and the fix was to pull the engine and machine the plate (flywheel?) smooth. He said as long as the parking brake will hold it, just use that, so I sort of lost interest in seeing exactly what was involved at that point. Over time I've come to accept it somewhat, but it's still annoying.

That's got to be one of the biggest piles of horse crap I've ever heard. The mechanic obviously know nothing about the 755. The drive shaft is bolted solid to the flywheel, so you could polish the darn thing and still wouldn't do any good. The creeping has to do with the linkage to the swash-plate being out of adjustment or worn and sloppy. Proper control of the swash plate will control the creeping.