Upgrade (or downgrade?) to 3046R

   / Upgrade (or downgrade?) to 3046R #1  

TreeDreamer

New member
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
21
Location
Mt. Gilead, OH
Tractor
M7060, 3046R
I grew up around a small sawmill in the south. We skidded with horses, then a 3200# 28HP John Deere 420, then a MF65. Dad had a G John Deere. Worked for a farmer with a Ford 841 Powermaster and a MF1085. Then life and kids and work happened for 35 years and I bought 40 acres and a '70s Case 990 about 8 years ago.

The Case has a 12F-4R transmission, a good draft hitch, power steering, the softest clutch I've ever used, foot throttle, diff lock, but most of all a Case 65 oversized loader with about 3000# lift. But it also has a loose front end, leaks everywhere, electrical issues, the seat is just foam with a loose flap of a cover and the lift is weak when hot. I could spend maybe $4000 or $5000 dollars on it and it would still have 2 wheel drive. It would then be worth about $3500.

Over the last eight years, I've acquired a good bushhog, a beat up Woods C80 bushhog, 2-14 plow, 8' disk, 6' box blade, 8' landscape rake, 8' hydraulic angle grader blade, ATI preseeder, 5' aerator, cone spreader, a Fransgard 10,500# logging winch, and my favorite by far, a Woods ATI 6' root grapple (~800# and unbendable).

I looked at Kubotas, New Holland, and John Deere (and briefly at Mahindra and Rural King). I started with an direct replacement 60-75HP (5-series and M-series) tractor to replace the Case. But I am constantly frustrated when in the woods with turning that thing around and my aversion to barking anything. So I stepped back and looked at the 4R series and the MX series (only comparable in size, not features). Finally said screw it, I'll try it and see, and bought a 3046R, used, 150 hours, at a bargain near where I grew up in Jackson, TN.

The stepdown is a long one, from the Case at about 7000# with 900# of CaCl in each tire and that huge loader to the (as yet unloaded) 3046R that probably doesn't weigh 3000# without the loader on it. I'll load the tires and that'll help, get it to just past 1/2 the weight.

It spun its tires with my box blade just lightly pulling the center out of the driveway, 4wd helped. When I used the mid-duty 6' bush hog on the back 6 acres the front wheels were light enough to skid instead of turn without the brakes. I moved some dirt from a pile of gravel mixed in clay to fill some low spots in a road and it was painful to dig it out (no traction) and slow to move it with that little 5' bucket on the H165. It has plenty of power for my implements, just not the weight. Loading the tires, maybe some wheel weight, and then appropriate a ballast box will fix most of that.

On the other hand, I love the hydrostatic transmission, the cruise control pad(!!!), the four wheel drive, the compact size, the looks, and the fact it doesn't drip or require constant topping off of literally everything, powersteering, loader hydraulics, transaxle, engine oil...

If I can get over the size, I've got a great tractor.

Mark
 
   / Upgrade (or downgrade?) to 3046R
  • Thread Starter
#2  
I've had a couple of issues. First is it has a death rattle on cold start regardless of weather. From this forum it seems that is just the name of that tune. But on a warm restart, not when cold and not when hot, it would cough and stumble when giving it throttle, you could smell unburned diesel and see a little white smoke (guessing the particulate filter caught the rest of it). Wouldn't even rev up from idle. After a couple of minutes you could slowly add throttle and it would take it, after getting to 2000RPM or so it would be OK. I was beginning to think I had a real problem.

Saw in a forum here that someone had this issue and fuel filters fixed it. This one only has 150 hours on it so I thought that couldn't be it. But there was always standing water around the fuel cap... So I spring for $80 worth of fuel filters and replaced them. The bowl of the prefilter was thick with crud, the prefilter had gunk all over the lower 1/3rd of it, and even the final filter had crud on it. Cleaned everything up good, which took an hour or so, and put the filters back on (no thanks to the Deere manual trying to convince me there had been a spring in the prefilter). It really did fix the stumbling. Starts and takes throttle under all conditions now, although only a couple of days so can't be 100% sure.

The only place I think likely for all this crud is water and mud from the puddle around the filler neck. Or algae because of the water. I figured there much be a drain, although I couldn't find it with a finger or a wire. But I found the drain tube (large, maybe 3/4" heater hose looking thing in front of the brakes) and I put an air gun on it. A mud geyser shot out of the filler neck area all over the tractor and my shop cabinets. But it drained, I flushed as much mud out of that area as I could, just letting it flow down the drain tube.

I guess all I can do is just watch the sediment bowl under the prefilter (now that I can see through it again) for water or dirt and change the filters frequently until the fuel tank is clean. Open to any suggestions that don't require taking the tank out of this thing.

Another issue, although not much of one, is I bought a coolant heater (desperate measure to combat the stumbling, even though it was worst when warm, like I said, desperate) and I can't see any way short of a demo saw to get to the block plug. I spent an hour looking for what to take off to get to it and still haven't even been able to touch the plug with a finger. How do you get to that plug?

Mark
 
   / Upgrade (or downgrade?) to 3046R
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Got the front and rear tires loaded with Rim Guard at Dexter in Bucyrus OH. Almost $600 at $6.00 a gallon. Ouch.

Also got a really nice condition Frontier 60" 4-in-1 bucket. Cut the John Deere Quick Attach off last night, will weld up the low spots tonight. Ordered a pair of skid steer quick attach brackets from Skidsteer Attachment Depot today and should be in two days. Weld them up and some paint. I'm going to run some lines from my rear remote for that and the grapple I've ordered, I'll pick them and fittings up tonight at Rural King.

Any thoughts on routing from back of left ROPS post to the loader?

Mark
 
   / Upgrade (or downgrade?) to 3046R #4  
Got the front and rear tires loaded with Rim Guard at Dexter in Bucyrus OH. Almost $600 at $6.00 a gallon. Ouch.

Also got a really nice condition Frontier 60" 4-in-1 bucket. Cut the John Deere Quick Attach off last night, will weld up the low spots tonight. Ordered a pair of skid steer quick attach brackets from Skidsteer Attachment Depot today and should be in two days. Weld them up and some paint. I'm going to run some lines from my rear remote for that and the grapple I've ordered, I'll pick them and fittings up tonight at Rural King.

Any thoughts on routing from back of left ROPS post to the loader?

Mark

Glad you got it running smoothly! Just a question: Why did you fill the front tires?
 
   / Upgrade (or downgrade?) to 3046R
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Have a BushHog 286 6' bush hog, medium duty. Was mowing with it with the loader off and the front end would skid instead of turn at the end of the rows. Had to bring it around with the brakes. So I figured a little weight in the front would help.

Mark
 
 
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