Used skidsteer questions

[Birdhunter1]

I'm thinking about buying a used Bobcat, most likely like a 742 (smallest) to 773 (biggest). I'm buying some property out on the farm where I'll have to put a road in about 3/8 mile long and also be building a house and barn in the next few years. I'm looking at a Bobcat because my dad has his MF 135 out there and my uncle has his 2020 JD out there but neither has a loader that I will want when I build my house.

So the reason I'm thinking about the Bobcat is in the size I described I can handle hauling them with my truck and make a few extra bucks occasionally and they are so much more efficient at doing dirt work than a tractor with a loader and a boxblade. Like I said I've already got enough tractor (one is 40-45 hp and the other is about 50 hp) and with the 7' boxblade and 7' rear blade I have plenty of machine to do the road but the bobcat would be better where I have to do some site raising for the barn and well if you've ever been aroudn a Bobcat you know how handy they are. After the house and barn is built I' probably sell the Bobcat and get a tractor with a front end loader (Case/IH DX 55 with ag's or JX55).

I have a buddy who him and his dad have a large concrete business so I'd take him with me when I'd go to buy a machine so he coudl look it over and tell me what he thinks but what all do you need to look over on a Bobcat real well (engine stuff is obvious) but I'm thinking looking for hydraulic leaks, weak hydraulic motors and so on. What are some common tell tale signs of abuse I should look for?

I'll probably only go with a Bobcat bobcat since my buddy and his dad do alot of business with Bobcat and they can help me with parts and service through them, plus their shop is about 4 miles from the farm and the Bobcat reps' and tech's drive by the farm on the way to their shop.

Oh yeah, the road I am needing to build has one hill to go up that I'll try and cut a good section out of and lenghen the approach, when the hill is cut down the valley will be raised. Other than that there is a long slight downhill grade (300 yards dropping maybe 10'). No trees to be removed, one big culvert to put in in a deep ditch, one other 6" to put in in a waterway). The road is going to be in the center of an ag field, the house and barn will be built off the side of the ag field. Mostly the ground at the barn site will just need raised, the house i will build the grade up to it.

 

[Birdhunter1]

I'm thinking about buying a used Bobcat, most likely like a 742 (smallest) to 773 (biggest). I'm buying some property out on the farm where I'll have to put a road in about 3/8 mile long and also be building a house and barn in the next few years. I'm looking at a Bobcat because my dad has his MF 135 out there and my uncle has his 2020 JD out there but neither has a loader that I will want when I build my house.

So the reason I'm thinking about the Bobcat is in the size I described I can handle hauling them with my truck and make a few extra bucks occasionally and they are so much more efficient at doing dirt work than a tractor with a loader and a boxblade. Like I said I've already got enough tractor (one is 40-45 hp and the other is about 50 hp) and with the 7' boxblade and 7' rear blade I have plenty of machine to do the road but the bobcat would be better where I have to do some site raising for the barn and well if you've ever been aroudn a Bobcat you know how handy they are. After the house and barn is built I' probably sell the Bobcat and get a tractor with a front end loader (Case/IH DX 55 with ag's or JX55).

I have a buddy who him and his dad have a large concrete business so I'd take him with me when I'd go to buy a machine so he coudl look it over and tell me what he thinks but what all do you need to look over on a Bobcat real well (engine stuff is obvious) but I'm thinking looking for hydraulic leaks, weak hydraulic motors and so on. What are some common tell tale signs of abuse I should look for?

I'll probably only go with a Bobcat bobcat since my buddy and his dad do alot of business with Bobcat and they can help me with parts and service through them, plus their shop is about 4 miles from the farm and the Bobcat reps' and tech's drive by the farm on the way to their shop.

Oh yeah, the road I am needing to build has one hill to go up that I'll try and cut a good section out of and lenghen the approach, when the hill is cut down the valley will be raised. Other than that there is a long slight downhill grade (300 yards dropping maybe 10'). No trees to be removed, one big culvert to put in in a deep ditch, one other 6" to put in in a waterway). The road is going to be in the center of an ag field, the house and barn will be built off the side of the ag field. Mostly the ground at the barn site will just need raised, the house i will build the grade up to it.

 

[5030tinkerer]

Sort of hard to miss this easy stuff, but be sure to get aux hydraulics and a quik tatch, not a pin tatch bucket. Also, check the flow capabilities of whatever you intend to purchase to be sure it can run the auger, etc. that you will want to run. Lastly, be sure to look for those hydraulic leaks, cracked hoses, etc and test drive the machine heavily prior to purchase, ensuring that the motor isn't "tired". Try doing several spins, wheelies, going up relatively significant inclines carrying a load, that sort of thing.

I have an old (70's) IH3200B with no quik tatch and no aux hydraulics. While it starts right up even after sitting for an entire season, I am planning to sell it since it doesn't have these items, though it would be perfect for someone that just wants to move dirt around. Also, I'd opt for a little beefier unit - at 30hp, the Wisconsin gas engine just doesn't seem to have enough omph.

 

[5030tinkerer]

Sort of hard to miss this easy stuff, but be sure to get aux hydraulics and a quik tatch, not a pin tatch bucket. Also, check the flow capabilities of whatever you intend to purchase to be sure it can run the auger, etc. that you will want to run. Lastly, be sure to look for those hydraulic leaks, cracked hoses, etc and test drive the machine heavily prior to purchase, ensuring that the motor isn't "tired". Try doing several spins, wheelies, going up relatively significant inclines carrying a load, that sort of thing.

I have an old (70's) IH3200B with no quik tatch and no aux hydraulics. While it starts right up even after sitting for an entire season, I am planning to sell it since it doesn't have these items, though it would be perfect for someone that just wants to move dirt around. Also, I'd opt for a little beefier unit - at 30hp, the Wisconsin gas engine just doesn't seem to have enough omph.

 

[jgh]

20060605

I bought and sold a 743 (have A300 now) a couple of yrs ago. Big difference with newer machines. It showed (and who knows?) about 3500 hrs when I got it. As I later learned, that is a lot for a SSL.

My advice, watch out for:

1- Bell housing on mine had missing teeth, would not always engage the starter reliably;
2- Machine was very herky-jerky, sometimes acted like it was going to buck like a horse, newer ones are more civilized;
3- Lots of stuff was bent on my 743, to the extent that I had trouble hooking stuff up to it;
4- The attaching plate on mine did not exactly match some newer stuff, part of which could have been due to #3, not sure.

The Kubota engine purred when running, no problem there...or was there...

Oh, and the guy who bought mine reported it blew the engine within a year.

Good luck,

Jim

 

[jgh]

20060605

I bought and sold a 743 (have A300 now) a couple of yrs ago. Big difference with newer machines. It showed (and who knows?) about 3500 hrs when I got it. As I later learned, that is a lot for a SSL.

My advice, watch out for:

1- Bell housing on mine had missing teeth, would not always engage the starter reliably;
2- Machine was very herky-jerky, sometimes acted like it was going to buck like a horse, newer ones are more civilized;
3- Lots of stuff was bent on my 743, to the extent that I had trouble hooking stuff up to it;
4- The attaching plate on mine did not exactly match some newer stuff, part of which could have been due to #3, not sure.

The Kubota engine purred when running, no problem there...or was there...

Oh, and the guy who bought mine reported it blew the engine within a year.

Good luck,

Jim

 

[Birdhunter1]

Thanks guys, if and when I do go to by onefrom someone I'll be taking my buddy who's grown up on the things with me to look it over as a final evaluation.

I'm not planning on running an auger with it, mainly just alot of dirt work and a set of pallet forks. I saw a dozer/grader blade that would do me alot of good, especially once it starts snowing.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Thanks guys, if and when I do go to by onefrom someone I'll be taking my buddy who's grown up on the things with me to look it over as a final evaluation.

I'm not planning on running an auger with it, mainly just alot of dirt work and a set of pallet forks. I saw a dozer/grader blade that would do me alot of good, especially once it starts snowing.

 

[Tigerotor77W]

Hey jgh, don't mean to drag this thread off-topic, but how is that A300 doing for you now? How many hours on it?

 

[Tigerotor77W]

Hey jgh, don't mean to drag this thread off-topic, but how is that A300 doing for you now? How many hours on it?

 

[jgh]

20060610

Not too bad, but sometimes I wish it had tracks and a few more tons!

I'll have to post some pics. Check out the thread on TreeLiminator vs TreeTerminator under attachments. More to come on that one when I actually try things out on the A300.

Are you still at UI U/C (or?), how are things?

J

 

[jgh]

20060610

Not too bad, but sometimes I wish it had tracks and a few more tons!

I'll have to post some pics. Check out the thread on TreeLiminator vs TreeTerminator under attachments. More to come on that one when I actually try things out on the A300.

Are you still at UI U/C (or?), how are things?

J

 

[gatractorman]

First I'd recommend a diesel engine machine 742's are gas, 743 is the same machine but with a diesel.
I would not purchase a used skid steer unless I have ran it for a day or so. Take notice of the strength of the drive system and hydraulics when it is first started then again after it is warmed up, it doesn't hurt to push up against a tree to see if it will spin the tires, this is the best test I know of to determine a weak drive.
It may want to try and stall the engine if it gets good traction but that is acceptable.
The only Bobcat machine in the range of sizes you mention that is a "long" wheelbase is a 763 and I think a 773 but not sure. All the others are short and will buck, one of the other posters mentioned this aspect and if its important to you it's just a tidbit of info for you.
Kubota engines are for the most part standard on the sizes you mention with the exception of some 751's that had a Peugeot belt driven overhead cam engine that was not worth the engineers time to figure out how to make it fit in there.
Repair welds on the lift arms is a good indication of abuse, of course you dont want to see much of this.

 

[gatractorman]

First I'd recommend a diesel engine machine 742's are gas, 743 is the same machine but with a diesel.
I would not purchase a used skid steer unless I have ran it for a day or so. Take notice of the strength of the drive system and hydraulics when it is first started then again after it is warmed up, it doesn't hurt to push up against a tree to see if it will spin the tires, this is the best test I know of to determine a weak drive.
It may want to try and stall the engine if it gets good traction but that is acceptable.
The only Bobcat machine in the range of sizes you mention that is a "long" wheelbase is a 763 and I think a 773 but not sure. All the others are short and will buck, one of the other posters mentioned this aspect and if its important to you it's just a tidbit of info for you.
Kubota engines are for the most part standard on the sizes you mention with the exception of some 751's that had a Peugeot belt driven overhead cam engine that was not worth the engineers time to figure out how to make it fit in there.
Repair welds on the lift arms is a good indication of abuse, of course you dont want to see much of this.

 

[Tigerotor77W]

Hey J, thanks for the reply -- I'm still at the UIUC (University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign). Two more years to go.

I'm in North Carolina for the summer on an internship, but I go back to school in the fall.

gatractorman: you are right about the 763 (now S150/S160) and 773 (now S175, S185, and S205) have "long" wheelbases. Note, though, that most competitors in these size classes have longer wheelbases than the Bobcat models.

Any resolution on what models to choose?

 

[UFM82]

The ideal machine for farm use would be a 1997 or newer 763 or 773. Both machines share the same frame and driveline but the 763 is a radius-path boom machine and the 773 is a vertical-path machine. The 773 is ideal for handling round bales however if you have that issue. The 763 boom is more durable and will do better over time when exposed to heavy duty use such as digging or grubbing out stumps.

The Kubota diesel used in these machines is a very robust 4 cylinder that has enjoyed great success in the Bobcats. It is still the same basic engine used in the current new models. I have personal knowledge of machines in industrial applications with over 9,000 hours on them.

The hydraulic systems on these machines are also very well designed and durable. In fact, the 700 series size machines are the most durable sized machines Bobcat ever built. Many are still seen on jobsites working and making their owners money.

The only real weakness I see from the "C" and "F" series machines is the shaft that runs between the gear reduction and the drive motor. It is referred to as the "dog bone" as it is bigger at each end than it is in the middle. They has a predisposition to breaking at around 3,000 hours or so. If you have a machine with hours close to that number, I will pull the drive motors and inspect that shaft for wear or cracks.

I would have no problems putting a 763 or 773 on a farm and have done so many times in the past. Expect to pay in the $11K-$13K range for a nice machine. This will get you a machine that will not require immediate maintenance work from you.

Things to look for are unusual hydraulic noise, creeping or pulling to one side while driving, vibration in the sticks that could be a sign of a pump going out, etc. Ask for a service history and see if the dealer has been doing the maintenance. And also think about having a dealer tech look at the machine. An hour of shop time at $75 an hour or so could keep you from spending thousands on a bad machine.

UFM82

 

[justanotherjoe]

Skidsteers are great for what they do. A more versitile but much slower tool is a tractor-loader-backhoe. My little skidsteer is just fun to work, but i keep having to go get the TLB for some job where the skid can't do enough i.e. crossing rough ground with a full loader, scratching out rocks with the backhoe, trenching a drip line through hard clay, etc. I could do without the skid, but not without the TLB. If your site is smooth and flat, rent an excavator and enjoy owning your skid. Otherwise a TLB may serve you better, but will be less fun while operating.
Bobcat parts are widely available but sometimes the factory specs some of the filters such that you need a OEM one, instead of a cheaper one that fits all of the other same engines on other brands. That benefits Bobcat, not you.
Joe