Using a box blade

[Paul McILwain]

I have a LS 5030c 58 hp and a 6 foot box blade. My 40 year old gravel driveway is hard packed with several dips that I would like to level. Just bought the box blade and have not used it yet. I also bought a hydraulic top link as well. My question is, do I use the draft control and if so how to set it. I hope to go over it a few times with the scarfires down to loosen the gravel then do I lift them to finish and level

 

[Stonehaller]

I go over my driveway a couple times with the scarifiers down. First pass I shorten the top link so the blade is not grabbing anything. Then a few passes as need with the top link set so the blade moves grave to fill pot holes and dips. Typically leave scarifiers down for this to make sure edges of pot holes are broken up. I don't use draft control. I raise the scarifiers to finish level. I have gauge wheels which helps for finishing leveling. For the final passes, I extend the top link so just the rear blade is scraping. This gives a smoother finish and helps flatten any windrows.

 

[JJT]

Stonehaller is dead on. Only thing to add is slow and steady is the key. Too fast and you just make a mess of things.

 

[nybirdman]

Also needs to be dry;wet and you will have a mess.

 

[scootr]

Good results with a gannon takes practice. Top tilt controls the angle of the cutting blade. You want to keep your eye on the box and your hand on the tilt control. The flatter the box is the more it will dig. Raise the front of the box to spread the material in the box or smooth the loose material. Avoid trying to grade dry material. Proper moisture content is your friend.
Don't expect to fix everything at once. I hit our road everytime there is a good rain to keep it reasonably smooth. If it has got bad washboard as it does over the long dry summer I start with the LP after a rain. But basically the LP leaves the road fluffed up and the gannon can lay it down with some degree of compaction. Rubber tires do the best compaction.

 

[IXLR8]

I don't use the draft control with my box blade. I have hydraulic top and tilt. I use the tilt control MUCH more than the top control. As others have said... SLOW and steady will give the best results.

 

[workinonit]

I do use draft control on any implement I'm trying to level something with. The thing I don't use is a box blade for what you are trying to do. I use a landplane that I made. For me, a box is good for moving material around but not nearly as good for leveling. My LP doesn't have tines so when I need tines I do have to revert to a BB or just use my loader bucket.

 

[CH4Ohio]

I have a LS 5030c 58 hp and a 6 foot box blade. My 40 year old gravel driveway is hard packed with several dips that I would like to level. Just bought the box blade and have not used it yet. I also bought a hydraulic top link as well. My question is, do I use the draft control and if so how to set it. I hope to go over it a few times with the scarfires down to loosen the gravel then do I lift them to finish and level

Just set it so it's level when lowered on a flat surface. Then go out and play with it. Use the 3-point up/down lever to feather out material. For most uses, I don't see any reason to "tilt" a box blade up and down.

You'll find that you can push material going backward and you'll probably have to lift it some when going forward to keep from filling up too much. I never use the scarifiers on mine. It'll always dig in plenty without them, but your conditions may be different.

You'll just need to play with it to figure out what works for you and on your drive.

 

[dodge man]

I used a box blade the first time last year. I set the scarifiers at the shallowest depth and had the top link set so it more or less sat level front to back. I was surprised how easy it was to use and how good of a job it did. The only trick is to maybe bump it up a little higher if you start to build up to much material in the box.

 

[BackRoad]

You mentioned dips...the risk if not watchful is making them worse.

Dips can exacerbate the digging and lifting actions of the box blade, so you end up digging the dips more and dumping the spoils on the higher sections developing a washboard.

If you find it happening, consciously try to deposit spoils in the dips and shave the high points feathering with your 3pt lift to work it back to level.

As several have mentioned, many find a landplane seems to work more efficiently with less active user involvement...basically just drive forward...though a box blade will work with practice.