Traction Using a Tractor on Mountain Property

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I was leaning towards the Max myself, but ended up with the BX. I think either are fine machines.

What made you decide to go with the BX over the Max, if you don't mind my asking?

 

[millsan1]

Kubota approved me and Mahindra did not, LOL.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Kubota approved me and Mahindra did not, LOL.

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Quotes so far:
$19,500 for an eMax 25 w/ FEL and BH delivered no sales tax.
$19,500 for an eMax 22 w/ FEL, BH & MMM (which we don't want) delivered but plus $1,400 sales tax.

 

[SpringHollow]

The Power track are not for everyone but some perceptions are wrong.

Ground clearance - the tractors that I know that are on your list can not go over anything the Power Trac can not. I suspect the opposite to be closer to the truth.

Non-standard Implements - many of us use standard 3 pt and skid steer attachments on our PT's. This requires a 3 pt adapter (with or without a motor) or welding plates on the attachments. We also make or modify our own. For example, I use the following 3 pt attachments: York Rake, Box Blade, Lifting Boom, Pallet Mover. I use the following skid steer: mini hoe, swinging mini hoe, The following are PT attachments: Grapple/Rock Bucket, Stump Grinder, Broom, 8' brush hog, sold the boom mower that I had never used. The PT attachments I have are because they came with the used tractor. The 8' brush hog is likely the only one I would have bought. Home/Shop Built attachments: LM Bucket, forks, 2" receiver, Snow V-Plow I am sure I am missing some and a bunch more are waiting for time to make them.

These tractors are great if you like to get your hands dirty and modify them. I have added a hydraulic filtration system, modified floatation seat, additional hydraulic circuits, etc.

No offense taken. There are certainly reasons not to get a PT, for example. Just make sure the reasons you are using are accurate. This is true of all of the tractors you are considering. BTW, I would have thought most tractors can lift their front end up with the FEL. I certainly can on my PT and could on all of my Ford/New Hollands. Not sure about all of the models you are looking at. I am mostly familiar with CUT's.

Ken

 

[Sysop]

Choice seems simple to me. Go with the 25 for less money, more power, and not getting stuff you're not going to use anyway.

 

[Coyote machine]

Wait a minute! Where is Kioti in the running? I strongly urge you to look at their 22-30 HP class tractors before making any decision. Why? Because they are some of the best built, sturdy, featured tractors in the class of tractors you are looking at. They are very reasonable in price compared to any of the brands you cite below. Their warranty is in most cases longer than others too.
Please don't make a decision without checking into them, either in person at a local dealer, or at the very minimum, on their web site to compare them feature for feature. I guarantee they will impress you with what they offer.
Let us know what you decide.
Good luck.

Thanks everyone for the helpful comments. We're getting close to a decision. So, because of our terrain, we're looking for a smaller tractor (22-24 HP) to get through tight spaces, but with enough weight and wide enough wheelbase to handle the grades, and enough power to handle our heavy clay/rock soil. FEL & BH. HST because accidentally jerking the tractor is gonna hit a tree or put a wheel somewhere I don't want it to go. 4WD of course. Cat 1 hitch. Used is not an option.

Tractors I have looked at so far:

1. Yanmar. Much cheaper than the competition but also lighter weight, less power, and no Cat 1 hitch. Not impressed.
2. Nortrac. Much cheaper than the competition and specs are good; heavy tractor w/ good power. However, no HST available, plus some concerns about maintenance/reliability.
3. Mahindra. Heavier and more powerful than the others; also lower and wider. The only 22HP tractor we saw that could lift itself off the ground w/ the FEL at idle speed.
4. Kubota, New Holland. These are relatively high, narrow tractors (not good for the hills), plus less power/weight than the Mahindra. I'm also hearing some RECENT issues w/ build quality & reliability.
5. PowerTrac. Small, low and powerful for its size. However, the bigger ones cost as much as a SCUT and are cash only. Extreme lack of ground clearance may be a problem too.
6. Simplicity Legacy. A kind of lawn mower on steroids. Has a lot of nice features and mows like a dream. But mowing isn't a priority for us; we live in the mountains and don't care about stripes, and when you add the FEL and BH it costs more than a SCUT w/ less power. Makes no sense.
7. John Deere. Saw these a couple days ago. I don't understand these new JDs. Extremely high tractor, no Cat 1 hitch, less powerful than the competition. Huge bolted metal plates everywhere, which make it look way beefier than the competition, yet it's a lighter tractor. How is that possible? True, there's a lot of flimsy plastic I could easily flex with my hand, and someone told me a lot of that metal is cast aluminum so maybe that's it. Probably the tractor least suited to our needs.
8. LS. Another high, narrow tractor. Good value though.

So, I guess we keep coming back to the Mahindra Max and eMax 22-24. I've looked at spec sheets till I'm dizzy and they just seem to beat every other tractor in their class for our specific needs.

I don't want to offend anyone with these comments. I'm simply a first-time tractor buyer with no brand loyalty, and these are my first impressions of these tractors (some of which may be wrong) plus "doing the math" based on spec sheets.

 

[JRobyn]

..... can anyone tell me what these rod-like things are--axle? steering control arms?--and how sturdy? Whatever they are, they're gonna be in danger of hitting rocks, stumps, dirt. This is one thing I look at on every tractor.
View attachment 423051

The shiny horizontal rod is the hydraulic steering ram (cylinder) with the steering knuckle on the end. Since they are near the center of the wheel, they are somewhat difficult to hit since the wheel will climb obstacles and tend to keep the ram/knuckle clear. But it IS possible to catch them on something like a stump or a rock that the wheel just misses. They are very solid but CAN be bent.

- Jay

 

[woodlandfarms]

My advice if you are looking at a conventional tractor and have narrowed it down is to go back to the dealer and determine which is the best dealer. Tractors will be more or less the same IMO, but dealerships can make or break your deal. Tractors can and will break down. You will break the tractor, and you will need parts and service. So look at how well stocked your dealer is and how they deal with service. Call people who use the dealer (try and not get the dealers recommendations but just ask people as they show up). In the end it is the dealer that diffentiates the tractor, not the tractor itself.

Oh, and as for your note on ground clearance on the PT. You have that completely wrong. Sorry, not trying to pick a fight, the PT has a lot wrong with it, but your assumption ground clearance is an issue would be incorrect. The other thing is that the bottom of the PT is flat steel, not exposed drive train. Nothing to damage or hang up on.

 

[Gafn]

I owned a BX2660 for 2 years... Without any issues, started every time, it is an OK lawn mower

Consider the following:

1) Noise when mowing - I had to wear earplugs, as the 2500 - 2700 rpm require to hit 540 on the PTO makes that little 3 cylinder scream
2) Attachment like a wood splitter - the hydro pump is small, and the power steering takes a few gpm, so not much left for hydro attachments
3) ground clearance is low - even with the MMM off
4) the tractor only weights 1348 ish lbs - the 26 HP and lack of weight makes for tire spinning fun.... but not moving much, like a truck stuck in mud, tractor in 4wd low - just spins tires, no weight for traction, get a full blade box of damp drive way stone and it just digs in wont pull due to not enough weight
5) the loader is the LA 243 that is in kilos so multiply that by 2.2lbs and you get you max lift weight (534 lbs) consider what you will use the loader for, such as damp stone from the driveway, a full load of that feels real unstable especially on slopes- but this is just my opinion
6) Steep slopes will require you to stop and shift down to low gear to prevent stalling on the hill
7) MMM deck is a pressed metal deck - the leading edge is a grove that collects wet grass leaves and dirt = bad design - if you dont clean this every time, it will induce rusting if you pain has a chip
8) cleaning of the MMM deck is a PITA, as the clearance is so low, and teh parts are so close together, you can not simply blow out the dry grass from one side, you end up chasing the grass back and forth till you think you have it all clean, pull covers and you still have a mass of grass stuck to the gear box
9) Towing a small debris trailer down a hill - even in 4wd the rear of the tractor will get pushed by the weight of the trailer and start to come around on you - this was constant, above 500lbs on the trailer - this is a bad feeling when you are half way down a hill and the rear end starts to race the front end...

one last thing - my mowing area is not smooth, and the little tires that come on the BX barely have any sidewall = no flex = bounce the chit out of you when mowing, a tractor's only suspension is side wall flex, and the BX came with the industrial tires R2 I think - not sure, and man mow for 4 hours and you have been beat to chit.

Now as a mower - it does a real nice job, it is extremely maneuverable, can mow at a fair rate of speed, the controls are laid out real nice.
Without the FEL this is a stable little mower that can cut anything within reason that you want.
With the FEL the same side hill cuts feel bad Again just my opinion.


This is just my opinion, and the reason I no longer have this tractor.
I went up to a 4000lbs tractor, and all of my complaints are gone now.