3-Point Hitch Using Box blade With No Draft/Float Control

[Sarge338]

Hey Folks,

I recent did some culvert repair and extension. I want to level the area with dirt and then gravel it. I have a Mahindra 2555 with with no draft control on the 3-point, and 6’ box blade. The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something. It seems every time I try to smooth something (gravel, dirt, whatever), that is exactly what happens.

Thanks for the help!

 

[finn1]

Same issue on most small, low spec tractors.

Part of the appeal is low cost, but then, you have to learn to live with the lack of features.

If I had to do it again, I would go with a Kioti NX instead of my CK. Draft control was standard on the NX.

 

[ptsg]

Same issue on most small, low spec tractors.

Part of the appeal is low cost, but then, you have to learn to live with the lack of features.

If I had to do it again, I would go with a Kioti NX instead of my CK. Draft control was standard on the NX.

It's more of a US market thing than a low spec thing. In Europe, draft control comes standard on pretty much all tractors starting at 35 HP. And some will offer right at 25 to 35HP as well.

 

[ZTMAN]

Hey Folks,

I recent did some culvert repair and extension. I want to level the area with dirt and then gravel it. I have a Mahindra 2555 with with no draft control on the 3-point, and 6’ box blade. The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something. It seems every time I try to smooth something (gravel, dirt, whatever), that is exactly what happens.

Thanks for the help!

In order to smooth out areas, I adjust the top link so the box blade gently cuts into the earth moving forward.

Pull forward and at the end of the run, or when the box blade gets full, I lift up the box blade, pull forward and use the back of the blade to push back.

Depending on how rough the area is, you may need to play with the top link adjustment. For fine tuning, I will back drag with the loader bucket.

For spreading gravel, I would drop it from the bucket.

That is the way I do our uneven and new culvert areas. Maybe others have some different methods.

My little BX does not even have position control so I pretty much use the box blade by feel. Usually the end result is spot on, and if it is not, I fine tune

 

[npalen]

I believe that "draft control" is one of the most misunderstood features on a 3PH tractor. I don't think that it would have any application with a box blade. Draft control might be useful with a moldboard plow, for example, where it would tend to raise the plow when encountering hard soil or a rock.

Most all 3PH's on compact tractors have "float control" in the fact that there is no hydraulic down pressure. Placing the 3PH position lever in the full down position is "float control"

 

[Xfaxman]

Most all 3PH's on compact tractors have "float control" in the fact that there is no hydraulic down pressure. Placing the 3PH position lever in the full down position is "float control"

The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something.

With the 3PH lever all the way down when the back wheels go over a bump, the box blade won't raise.

 

[mo1]

Hey Folks,

I recent did some culvert repair and extension. I want to level the area with dirt and then gravel it. I have a Mahindra 2555 with with no draft control on the 3-point, and 6’ box blade. The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something. It seems every time I try to smooth something (gravel, dirt, whatever), that is exactly what happens.

Thanks for the help!

Box blades work great for leveling loose material that flows well, such as inch diameter gravel. If your ground is a bunch of hard-packed clay and clods, you will want to break the surface up with a tiller or other tillage tool before the box blade will do a good job in leveling the soil. Trying to level 6" diameter dirt clods doesn't work well. If your ground is already loose, shorten the 3 point top link to increase the spreading action of the box blade and go slowly.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Hey Folks,

I recent did some culvert repair and extension. I want to level the area with dirt and then gravel it. I have a Mahindra 2555 with with no draft control on the 3-point, and 6’ box blade. The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something. It seems every time I try to smooth something (gravel, dirt, whatever), that is exactly what happens.

Thanks for the help!

Lengthen your top link so that the blade is barely cutting and just pull ahead. I set a stop on the three point lift to bring the box blade up an inch above grade and let the contents just feather out under the back. When you get your grade about where you want it lengthen the top link even more so that the inside blade isn't cutting at all and the back blade is just smoothing. Finish with a drag harrow. The drag harrow can b something as simple as some chain-link fence material with the leading edge held flat and a chain or even a good rope to pull it with.

 

[skipmarcy]

A hydraulic toplink is the ideal mate to a boxblade. Minute adjustments to the angle of the blade(s) on the fly according to ground conditions is what you need to learn how to use a boxblade VERY effectively.

 

[workinonit]

I believe that "draft control" is one of the most misunderstood features on a 3PH tractor. I don't think that it would have any application with a box blade. Draft control might be useful with a moldboard plow, for example, where it would tend to raise the plow when encountering hard soil or a rock.

Please explain why something that controls based on the amount of pressure applied to the toplink would have no application with a box blade. I have done a huge number of hours of grading with a box blade using draft control. I would hate to think I did it wrong and wasted my time.