3-Point Hitch Using Box blade With No Draft/Float Control

[jimglassford]

I am a home owner and have draft control on both tractors. I also use draft control when using the box blade or back blade. The draft is not really used to set the box blade depth in the ground as it will raise the blade as it fills. However, it can adjust how fast the box blade fills versus the distance traveled. I first work the area with the rippers and box blade, moving the material around. After that, a very light setting on the draft does not allow the box to fill and the results are a very smooth, level area.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Our 1980 didn't have draft. Been like that for a long time now. I level things just fine with it, no problem. Many house pads and such. Just set the lift and dont touch it while moving. I've never seen a road grader with draft, or a dozer, skid steer. Draft is to raise a break plow before you get stuck in the middle of a field.

 

[npalen]

I am a home owner and have draft control on both tractors. I also use draft control when using the box blade or back blade. The draft is not really used to set the box blade depth in the ground as it will raise the blade as it fills. However, it can adjust how fast the box blade fills versus the distance traveled. I first work the area with the rippers and box blade, moving the material around. After that, a very light setting on the draft does not allow the box to fill and the results are a very smooth, level area.

How do you set your position control when doing this final grading? Do you set it all the way down and then adjust the draft control to do the leveling?

" it will raise the blade as it fills" This is what perplexes me. How does one get anything level if the blade is raising and lowering to satisfy the draft setting?

 

[Ed Weber]

flexible top link and gauge wheels

 

[therdriele]

It just takes practice to level with a box blade and no draft control. Depends entirely on how lumpy/stony your soil is. Leveling out a packed gravel road might take a few passes, and some hand picking of bigger stones you pull up, but it can be done. Leveling out a fresh load of pea gravel or 1" stone is one or two passes at most. No amount of fussing or draft control or anything else will allow you to completely level big clumps of sod with a box blade. If you have sod clumps, several passes first with a tiller will help you use a box blade to get a crude leveling, and then final finish by hand or with a roller. Box blades have limitations but being able to adjust the cutting angle by an adjustable toplink is probably more important than draft control, and if what you are leveling is clumpy and stony, you might want to add a York type rake to your stable.

 

[GVTractorGuy]

I think Roustabout touched on it. I'm not an expert but have used both box blade and land planes and they both have the same issue of moving up and down as the tractor drives over hills and bumps. I can't say that draft control will or won't compensate for this, but I don't believe it will. But when thinking about Roustabouts statement about road graders, dozers and skid steers you have to realize that those equipment move the dirt before it is driven over. Therefore the land that it drives over is already smooth and the equipment does not tend to rise and fall. Now, back to box blades, most have a blade edge that allows you to push them. If you push it across the bumps it will tend to smooth them out. My habit with both a box blade and a land plane has become that I push when an area needs smoothing and I pull to fill potholes and crown a road. If I have a large area to smooth I tend to use the land plane as it has wider skids like the 2x4's several people mentioned (and adjustable) adding to the box blade. Much more versatile in my mind.

 

[ljjhouser]

Can't say anything about draft control. Never used it. But you can smooth a road without it using a box blade. The box blade needs to have two blades - most do. But it ides take some practice. When you begin, adjust top link to cut very little with the front blade. Drop the box blade to the road. Then watch it as you lift it until you see the 3pt slightly move it (still on the ground, but little down weight). Now, most important see and know where you 3pt control is set. As you proceed, you can slightly adjust the three pt as the front of the tractor goes down or up, like wise adjust the 3pt. If that is too much change. set the 3 pt and leave it there. Will it be perfect. NO But after some passes, it will be very close. Then set the top link so both blades set flat and make a final run. My driveway is about 600' and gravel. Hard dirt clods and rocks are always a problem with a box blade. Working with a box blade takes practice. But it is a multi-purpose implement. Sometimes, using to bucket to back drag if you have large low areas may be necessary to fill first.

The box blade is a much-discussed implement. Yet, most tractor owners have one. But most owners have to find the best way to use it on their situation.

 

[jdmeth]

Please explain why something that controls based on the amount of pressure applied to the toplink would have no application with a box blade. I have done a huge number of hours of grading with a box blade using draft control. I would hate to think I did it wrong and wasted my time.

Position control and draft control are two different things. Larger tractors have sensor inside the tractor on either the top link or lower arms. If the draft (how hard the the implement is to pull) increases beyond the set amount on the draft control the tractor will lift the implement a bit decreasing the load. As the load decreases the arms are dropped back to where the position control (sometimes called the depth control) is set. Small tractors just have the position control, the implement drops to the set point when you lower it. You do not really have a float position, you just set the stop lower then the implement will go.

Very small tractors (like my JD 1023E) do not have the depth control, just a drop and raise lever. It does not hurt to keep the lever pushed forward, that way the box blade would follow the ground contour. If I had to do a lot of work like that I would use a wire or bungee cord to hold the lever forward.

 

[clay4700]

Hey Folks,

I recent did some culvert repair and extension. I want to level the area with dirt and then gravel it. I have a Mahindra 2555 with with no draft control on the 3-point, and 6’ box blade. The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something. It seems every time I try to smooth something (gravel, dirt, whatever), that is exactly what happens.

Thanks for the help!

Draft control isn’t necessary. Just get the box adjusted right and go slow if you’re working in a small area and keep your hand on the control and feel with your hind end in the seat and try to predict which way you would need to move the box up or down to compensate for the grade you’re traveling over . You’ll get better with practice.

 

[ovrszd]

I've never used draft control when using a BB. I prefer to be in control.

 

[MBTRAC]

For final finish if there's no draft control or hyd top link, try fitting a chain instead of a rigid top link - adjust the chain & box blade combo until the front sides are about 1-2" higher than the level of the rear cutting blade.
The chain alllows the box blade to float & fill the contours - dragging mesh or a pallet behind will also speed up the process.

 

[npalen]

I wonder if some folks think that draft control is, in fact, the position control lever. For the folks that know the difference and do actually use draft control for the box blade; Where do you initially set the position control, all the way down to allow float or to a nominal "cutting depth"? Then, when driving over irregular ground, what does the draft control do to achieve leveling? How does it compensate for the tractor tires passing over high and low spots?

 

[BubbaBillyBob]

Hey Folks,

I recent did some culvert repair and extension. I want to level the area with dirt and then gravel it. I have a Mahindra 2555 with with no draft control on the 3-point, and 6’ box blade. The ground is not even, so do you have any recommendations on how to use the box blade to accomplish this without a draft control? I don’t want to end up with lumps of earth every time the tractor bounces over a lump of something. It seems every time I try to smooth something (gravel, dirt, whatever), that is exactly what happens.

Thanks for the help!

I maintain our mile and a half gravel driveway with a Mahindra 5545 and a 7' heavy duty box blade. In the begining, I tried to use the draft control. That was a waste of time. I finally only used position control and that made box blade life a lot easier.

 

[workinonit]

Position control and draft control are two different things. Larger tractors have sensor inside the tractor on either the top link or lower arms. If the draft (how hard the the implement is to pull) increases beyond the set amount on the draft control the tractor will lift the implement a bit decreasing the load. As the load decreases the arms are dropped back to where the position control (sometimes called the depth control) is set. Small tractors just have the position control, the implement drops to the set point when you lower it. You do not really have a float position, you just set the stop lower then the implement will go.

Very small tractors (like my JD 1023E) do not have the depth control, just a drop and raise lever. It does not hurt to keep the lever pushed forward, that way the box blade would follow the ground contour. If I had to do a lot of work like that I would use a wire or bungee cord to hold the lever forward.

Every tractor I've ever operated had top link draft. And yes this is pretty much exactly how they work as has been said multiple times.

 

[LD1]

Op does not have draft. And seeking advise for using his blade without draft.

Yet this has become a whole thread about draft control.

Quite simply draft control is NOT depth control. ITS LOAD control. It wants to see a constant load, regardless of depth. And as the blade fills....it will pull harder and want to raise on its own.....till it spills enough that it wants to load again....and over and over.

Then what about going backwards.....totally wouldn't work.

As to the OPs question.....need to det the blade set to cut while it's in float. But not cut too much or too deep.

If the ground is really uneven....trying to hold position control just continues to make things worse. You have to get close before giving that a try

Combination of the BB and the loader. If it's high spots you are trying to shave....don't be afraid to try a loader while the tractor can remain flat while trying to shave it....as opposed to going over it to cut with the blade

 

[npalen]

Op does not have draft. And seeking advise for using his blade without draft.

Yet this has become a whole thread about draft control.

Quite simply draft control is NOT depth control. ITS LOAD control. It wants to see a constant load, regardless of depth. And as the blade fills....it will pull harder and want to raise on its own.....till it spills enough that it wants to load again....and over and over.

Then what about going backwards.....totally wouldn't work.

As to the OPs question.....need to det the blade set to cut while it's in float. But not cut too much or too deep.

If the ground is really uneven....trying to hold position control just continues to make things worse. You have to get close before giving that a try

Combination of the BB and the loader. If it's high spots you are trying to shave....don't be afraid to try a loader while the tractor can remain flat while trying to shave it....as opposed to going over it to cut with the blade

Quite simply draft control is NOT depth control. ITS LOAD control. It wants to see a constant load, regardless of depth. And as the blade fills....it will pull harder and want to raise on its own.....till it spills enough that it wants to load again....and over and over.

Sorry about going off topic, I know that can be frustrating for any OP, but thanks for your above explanation.
It sounds like draft control, when used with a blade type implement, is a spreading method as opposed to a leveling method. Nothing wrong with expanding the capabilities of the draft control feature.

 

[Sarge338]

Thanks for all of the replies, everyone!! This was a very informative thread. I think I know what I need to do for now, thanks to you all, and in the long run, I need to add a hydraulic top link to my tractor!

 

[oosik]

I have a few 3-point implements that I use on my M6040. My tractor HAS draft control. Rather than trying to get draft control set up just right with my ROBB - I will use my LPGS. Yes - I will use the ROBB if I need to move large amounts of material. The LPGS with scarifiers down makes my driveway very smooth - once again.

I have a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. It makes using 3-point implements a real pleasure. And with significantly more control and accuracy.

 

[nickzim]

My kubota does not have a "Float" setting on the rear box. But, if I hold the down handle down it floats. Saw it on this forum. Some use a bungie cord. Sometimes "floating" helps

 

[Tx Jim]

My kubota does not have a "Float" setting on the rear box. But, if I hold the down handle down it floats. Saw it on this forum. Some use a bungie cord. Sometimes "floating" helps

It never ceases to amaze me of the myths that abound on the internet about some function controls on tractors.

Your Kubota has float built into the 3pt mechanism & operator should only need to hold 3pt control lever in place if friction device doesn't hold control lever where set where last positioned by hand.

I was taught back in the 60's that draft control was designed for ""ground engaging implements"" such as moldboard & chisel plows. Draft(load) control causes plow to automatically raise/lower in the soil so as to maintain a constant load on tractor engine.