Using E-Hydro - Tips?

[swines]

My 3320 arrived last week and I'm having a bit of difficulty getting a handle on using the E-Hydro transmission.

I've only used tractors with manual transmissions (my other tractor has a 12x12 shuttle-shift) - and I don't get how to use the E-Hydro transmission with ground engaging implements.

With the shuttle shift, I'd put the transmission in low range, and select the correct gear and throttle position for the conditions. With the E-Hydro I either stall the tractor or run out of "pull" (end up spinning the wheels).

So, here are my questions:

1. Do you use the "Load Match" feature with ground engaging implements?

2. With the E-Hydro do you set the throttle at a higher RPM (like at PTO level) to make sure the hydro system is functioning at a high flow rate; use the transmission in low range; and the forward peddle at whatever speed is correct for the ground conditions?

I guess I'm having trouble sorting out the transmission range level versus, throttle, versus how much peddle is required for forward motion without losing traction.

With the shuttle-shift is was easy to figure range 1 or 2 and the correct gear - I just can't seem to get the same type of correlation with the transmission + engine speed + pedal travel/position.

How do you put down the most power to the ground with the E-Hydro?

 

[orlo]

Hi:

I also have a 3320 e-hydro. In all honesty I don't like the feel of the e-hydro as much as the mechanical hydro on my 2305. I can't 'feel' if I'm spinning on the 3320. I'd use low or medium range and a moderate (1500-2000+) rpm. Loadmatch does work with everything, even mowers.

I do find that the modulation on the pedals is hard. You go from crawling to high speed very quick. If you have the Automotive speed control with Speed match (Allows you to set the maximum speed when you have the pedal full down) that might help.

The other thing on the 3320 that kills me is the suspended seat. Every bump I hit causes my foot to move on the pedal and can jerk forward or backward.

I have used it with a 72" box blade (with and without load match) and have had no issue except for occassional spinning when I hook a big root with the scarifiers.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

With the shuttle shift, I'd put the transmission in low range, and select the correct gear and throttle position for the conditions. With the E-Hydro I either stall the tractor or run out of "pull" (end up spinning the wheels).

So, here are my questions:

1. Do you use the "Load Match" feature with ground engaging implements?
Absolutely, that is what it is there for...

2. With the E-Hydro do you set the throttle at a higher RPM (like at PTO level) to make sure the hydro system is functioning at a high flow rate; use the transmission in low range; and the forward peddle at whatever speed is correct for the ground conditions?.

Use the Range set at 'A', set the engine speed at a comfortable rate, without lugging. probably not as high as the pto setting.

Deere's setup take a bit to get used to. But give it some time and it becomes second nature. Then it is so natural, going back to gears would seem difficult.

The cruise control is a big help. I also use the SpeedMatch feature, and it helps a lot.

 

[dirtworksequip]

Swines, I hated my new 3520 at first. The problem is since you ran geared tractors before you are expecting the ehydro to feel and react the same. The ehydro is a totally different critter. You just have to get used to how it is going to react under different work loads and task. The more you use it the better you will become at runing it and therefore like it more. Just stick with it. Although I do still feel that if you had identical hp tractors with the same tires, hook them drawbar to drawbar a geared tractor would pull the hydro all over the farm and back.

 

[Woody_NH]

My 3320 arrived last week and I'm having a bit of difficulty getting a handle on using the E-Hydro transmission.

I've only used tractors with manual transmissions (my other tractor has a 12x12 shuttle-shift) - and I don't get how to use the E-Hydro transmission with ground engaging implements.

With the shuttle shift, I'd put the transmission in low range, and select the correct gear and throttle position for the conditions. With the E-Hydro I either stall the tractor or run out of "pull" (end up spinning the wheels).

So, here are my questions:

1. Do you use the "Load Match" feature with ground engaging implements?

2. With the E-Hydro do you set the throttle at a higher RPM (like at PTO level) to make sure the hydro system is functioning at a high flow rate; use the transmission in low range; and the forward peddle at whatever speed is correct for the ground conditions?

I guess I'm having trouble sorting out the transmission range level versus, throttle, versus how much peddle is required for forward motion without losing traction.

With the shuttle-shift is was easy to figure range 1 or 2 and the correct gear - I just can't seem to get the same type of correlation with the transmission + engine speed + pedal travel/position.

How do you put down the most power to the ground with the E-Hydro?

Keep in mind that as you push the peddle further down; you are increasing the gear ratio. If you need more power; let up on the peddle and/or kick the throttle up.

As to your questions:
1. I always use load match. (The only reason for the off switch may be so you can see that it works). Load match automatically reduces the gear ratio when you hit resistance to try to keep the engine at a higher RPM and avoid a stall. I have NEVER stalled the engine.

2. For ground engaging work I always run in A range and at about 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with load match on. Use the peddle to set speed.

3. To get the most power on the ground as in pushing into a pile with the loader: load match on; A range; 4wd engaged; ballast in rear; 2,000+ rpm, kick the differential lock down; moderate pressure on the peddle. Avoid the impulse to put the peddle to the floor when you hit resistance, that only results in a higher gear ratio that load match must then correct for. (You would not shift a manual trans into a higher gear if you bogged down).

 

[Malvern]

When I got my 3120 after having a 2210, I didn't like the E-Hydro set up at all. Since then, we've moved a lot of dirt, rocks and loads of box blading. It didn't take long to figure out what works best. The advise the others gave you is spot on. I have more control now than I did with the 2210, you just have to get the "feel" for it. It just takes time.

Malvern

 

[JasonMac]

Hi:

I also have a 3320 e-hydro. In all honesty I don't like the feel of the e-hydro as much as the mechanical hydro on my 2305. I can't 'feel' if I'm spinning on the 3320. I'd use low or medium range and a moderate (1500-2000+) rpm. Loadmatch does work with everything, even mowers.

I've said it before on here many times in the past. I also liked my Mechanical Linkage Hydro Pedals on my 4200 JD, better than the E-Hydro Pedals on my New 3720 Cab Tractor. Sure I'm Getting used to the Pedals Having no feedback. But my Mechanical Pedals were great, I kept them nice and lubed up, and I always knew when I was about to spin, because I could actually feel the resistance right up through my foot. You don't have that luxury with the E-Hydro Pedals... It was definatley HYDRO feedback on the older style tractors, Not springs like some think... However I do like Loadmatch, but I got so used to the feeling of my older pedals that I wouldn't have needed loadmatch in the first place.......

If My new machine had the option of Mechanical vs. E-Hydro, I would have chose Mechanical, Sure I would have kept those pedals nice and lubed like I always did in the past.

 

[Chris_VA]

Although I do still feel that if you had identical hp tractors with the same tires, hook them drawbar to drawbar a geared tractor would pull the hydro all over the farm and back.

Yeah, I'd like to see what the drawbar horsepower is on some of these HST machines. My guess is, we'd be disappointed for sure...

I keep looking for a Nebraska drawbar test on these CUT's with HST but haven't seen one yet.

Have you even been to a tractor pull and witness a poor ol' feller with an HST tractor just embarrass himself? Seems like a good idea but just too parasitic I guess. Not like the old Farmall TA's for sure.

Chris

 

[swines]

Thanks for all the feedback. I didn't realize that the peddle position was like "changing a gear." But, it makes sense & maybe that's the part I was missing.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and comments

--steve

 

[ACKBill]

Yeah, The trick is to remember that it's not a gas pedal, keep the pedal pressure uniform and let the load match do the work. It does take some getting used to for sure but once you do you'll appreciate the ease of use for sure. If you miss the idea of having more direct control over the machine motion, turn the load match off. You'll get used to the feel of the machine and the sound of the engine just like you got used to the feedback through the pedal in the old machines. It probably took time to get a handle on the pedal feedback too.

And for all of you guys out there who don't think that HST's are all that great, keep in mind that there is very little heavy equipment made now-a-days that is not Hydrostatic. That includes dozers, loaders, excavators, etc.

BILL

 

[dirtworksequip]

AKCBill, you cannot compare hystat heavy equipment to hystat cuts because they use totally different drive systems. If the cuts where setup the same as heavy equipment then you would have the ultimate in tractors. The heavy equipment systems are alot more advanced than the tractors. I own or have owned them all and the is a huge difference. Just because there is hystat heavy equipment out there doesn't make the hystat tractors good.

 

[minimax]

I run heavy equipment for a living and most trackhoes have no compter or "loadmatch" they are heavier built but not smarter! I will take a hydro over a "gear drive" any day,Like on wet muddy clay a hydro will get more done than a gear drive because you can find your traction peak before you break traction with a gear tractor you dump the clutch and can lose traction before you ever move.P.S. I have pulled out, in more than one case, 60,000 lb dump trucks with these little tractors(4200 hst,4400 hst,3720 hst), all you have to do is have the traction like on hard pack gravel or paved roads and ride the torque curve so you don't kill the enigne,remember these are rolling loads not dead loads like a log or stump,buy the way also pulled out a 80,000 lb hay truck once the next time he buried it first to the axles and we could not get him out of the holes it took a D4 cat and dumping the hay to get him out!!

minimax

 

[ACKBill]

Dirtworks:

You missed my point and that was simply that there is a good way to run each drive type and what works with one, may not come even close with another. It simply takes some time and patience to learn what works best for you in each situation for that particular drive type.

Speaking personally, I've had the pleasure of making my living running a lot of different equipment doing many different jobs under widely varying conditions and I'll still take a hydro over a mechanical drive any day of the week, but that's just my preference because it works with my "style".

Best,
BILL