I have a Kubota L3300 4x4 tractor and I was told that I could weight down the tractor by using water in the tires. I would like to know if you use water, antifreeze, or corrosion inhibitor in the tires. I dont know how much to add nor if it should be add to the front tires as well as the rear. Thanks
Using water as tire weights
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rambler
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I live in Minnesota. About the only thing you can add is calcium cloride or the beet-based product, Rim Gaurd. Anything else is too expensive, toxic, or will freeze & ruin the tires/ rims.
I don't like antifreeze because it is too light; it is toxic; and it is far too expensive for the concentration I need; my tire dealer would kill me if I had him service my tires & I contaminated his good CC supply with antifreeze.
Straight water would only work if you are in the far, far south.
Best is CC mixed with water inside a tube, 75% filled in the tire. You _must_ have an air space in the tire of 20 - 25%. Generally put the valve stem to the top - 12:00 oclock position, and fill with liquid to there. The top of the tire should be air. This will give you the 75% fill.
Fill the tires that need weight or traction, don't fill the ones that already have enough of both - for example, don't fill the fronts if you have a loader, but then if you don't have a loader & use lots of heavy 3pt equipment you might want to fill the fronts only, not the rears.
CC is a form of salt, and it does cause rust if exposed to oxygen. The trick is to have good tires & tubes, maintain them, and flush off an pills right away. The horro stories of rims rusting out come from tractors that have sat, with no maintenence, in a grove for 30 years...... Somethig you take care of, the CC is a lot better & safer for all than toxic antifreeze. Sealed inside the tire without much O2, there will be no internal rust.
--->Paul
I don't like antifreeze because it is too light; it is toxic; and it is far too expensive for the concentration I need; my tire dealer would kill me if I had him service my tires & I contaminated his good CC supply with antifreeze.
Straight water would only work if you are in the far, far south.
Best is CC mixed with water inside a tube, 75% filled in the tire. You _must_ have an air space in the tire of 20 - 25%. Generally put the valve stem to the top - 12:00 oclock position, and fill with liquid to there. The top of the tire should be air. This will give you the 75% fill.
Fill the tires that need weight or traction, don't fill the ones that already have enough of both - for example, don't fill the fronts if you have a loader, but then if you don't have a loader & use lots of heavy 3pt equipment you might want to fill the fronts only, not the rears.
CC is a form of salt, and it does cause rust if exposed to oxygen. The trick is to have good tires & tubes, maintain them, and flush off an pills right away. The horro stories of rims rusting out come from tractors that have sat, with no maintenence, in a grove for 30 years...... Somethig you take care of, the CC is a lot better & safer for all than toxic antifreeze. Sealed inside the tire without much O2, there will be no internal rust.
--->Paul
Henro
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<font color="blue">I use windshield washer solution in all my tires. No rusting problems like ca/cl. It's relatively inexpensive when bought in bulk. I have my own pump set-up for filling and "un-filling" tires. That set me back about $120. Well worth it to me. </font>
For occasional use, a cheap "drill pump" available for a few dollars works quite well.
Here's a previous thread with a couple pictures...
All you need to do is pump the fluid in, and pull the hose off the valve stem once in a while during the process to bleed out some air.
For occasional use, a cheap "drill pump" available for a few dollars works quite well.
Here's a previous thread with a couple pictures...
All you need to do is pump the fluid in, and pull the hose off the valve stem once in a while during the process to bleed out some air.
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
Very timely post on this subject!!
I have been toying with this idea for a while. Was on last night trying to find information on this but the search engine was not working.
Was going to get a local tire dealer to perform this. But, after reading the link Henro posted think I am ready to give it a shot myself. Need to look at something larger than a drill pump though. Any thoughts?
From looking at this before I was leaning towards the windshield wiper fluid for ballast. That seems to be the “safest” and cheapest to use.
Thanks again for the post and information.
Eddie
I have been toying with this idea for a while. Was on last night trying to find information on this but the search engine was not working.
Was going to get a local tire dealer to perform this. But, after reading the link Henro posted think I am ready to give it a shot myself. Need to look at something larger than a drill pump though. Any thoughts?
From looking at this before I was leaning towards the windshield wiper fluid for ballast. That seems to be the “safest” and cheapest to use.
Thanks again for the post and information.
Eddie
beenthere
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Windshield washer fluid works great. No problem at -20° F, and below that the fluid would be slush at worst scenario.
Not as heavy as calcium chloride or water, but close enough to 8# to the gallon (I figured I added 200# to each rear) to give you some good traction.
Not as heavy as calcium chloride or water, but close enough to 8# to the gallon (I figured I added 200# to each rear) to give you some good traction.
BGL990
Gold Member
<font color="blue">Need to look at something larger than a drill pump though. Any thoughts? </font>
I used the pump from my homemade sprayer rig. It doesn't produce a huge flow, but was quite adequate to fill the tires. It was doubly convenient for me because I used regular auto antifreeze and the pump was already connected to the 15 gallon sprayer tank which served as a perfect mixing vessel. I disconnected the pump outlet from the sprayer nozzles and ran a hose to the tire valve (core removed and tire jacked off the ground). Just dump antifreeze & water into the tank to mix, pump it in, pull hose to release air from tire, repeat as necessary. It took about 45 minutes per tire and was a piece of cake. You don't even necessarily need a pump. I've heard of people just using gravity feed with a pail up high and hose stuck in the bottom of it. Might take a little longer, but should work fine.
BTW, I also filled my front tires. I don't mow so don't care about hurting the turf. For me more weight is better and since the weight of the fluid is not supported by wheel bearings or axles (ie. no additional wear & tear), I figured why not ...
Oh yeah, a note about using auto antifreeze: Some don't like it because it is toxic and they have concerns about punctures. For my location and use, the risk of a puncture is almost nil. I refuse to use CaCl because of the possible rust issues, and I need something that won't freeze down to -40 deg or so. Up here the stores sell "summer" windshield washer fluid in the summer and "winter mix" in the winter (different methanol concentrations). I did my tires in the summer and the winter mix wasn't available at the time (and the summer stuff will freeze solid in the winter). Auto antifreeze is cheaper than the RV stuff, so that's the way I went.
I used the pump from my homemade sprayer rig. It doesn't produce a huge flow, but was quite adequate to fill the tires. It was doubly convenient for me because I used regular auto antifreeze and the pump was already connected to the 15 gallon sprayer tank which served as a perfect mixing vessel. I disconnected the pump outlet from the sprayer nozzles and ran a hose to the tire valve (core removed and tire jacked off the ground). Just dump antifreeze & water into the tank to mix, pump it in, pull hose to release air from tire, repeat as necessary. It took about 45 minutes per tire and was a piece of cake. You don't even necessarily need a pump. I've heard of people just using gravity feed with a pail up high and hose stuck in the bottom of it. Might take a little longer, but should work fine.
BTW, I also filled my front tires. I don't mow so don't care about hurting the turf. For me more weight is better and since the weight of the fluid is not supported by wheel bearings or axles (ie. no additional wear & tear), I figured why not ...
Oh yeah, a note about using auto antifreeze: Some don't like it because it is toxic and they have concerns about punctures. For my location and use, the risk of a puncture is almost nil. I refuse to use CaCl because of the possible rust issues, and I need something that won't freeze down to -40 deg or so. Up here the stores sell "summer" windshield washer fluid in the summer and "winter mix" in the winter (different methanol concentrations). I did my tires in the summer and the winter mix wasn't available at the time (and the summer stuff will freeze solid in the winter). Auto antifreeze is cheaper than the RV stuff, so that's the way I went.
wushaw
Elite Member
I used the same method as BGL990 did with winter blend washer fluid and it works great.
Henro
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<font color="blue">Need to look at something larger than a drill pump though. Any thoughts? </font>
Eddie,
I would ask how large the tires are that you want to fill...
The drill pump worked fine for me several times and I think it will pump about a gallon per minutes average, as the pressure in the tire builds to 10 or a bit more PSI. I was actually surprised how well those little pumps work.
The largerst tires I filled just took about 23 gallons each though...I guess if I were putting in a hundred gallons per tire I might want something that would pump faster... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Eddie,
I would ask how large the tires are that you want to fill...
The drill pump worked fine for me several times and I think it will pump about a gallon per minutes average, as the pressure in the tire builds to 10 or a bit more PSI. I was actually surprised how well those little pumps work.
The largerst tires I filled just took about 23 gallons each though...I guess if I were putting in a hundred gallons per tire I might want something that would pump faster... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
Hey Henro,
My tire size is 12.4-28 and my note should have read "May need to look at..." I just was not sure. I do have a drill pump that has worked good for me.
Do you think the drill pump would work on 12.4-28? If you pumped 23 gallons with the drill pump that should work for me I would think? What do you think? I was thinking about it today and was wondering if I could just put a valve and connector in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket. Sit the bucket on the fender and let gravity do the rest. Saw where someone mentioned this in another post. I really like the sophistication of the pressure gauge and relief valves though – that’s my first choice. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I am not sure if my tires are tube or tubeless. Will tube vs. non-tube make a difference? Worried about the tire sealing around the rim for the tubeless when deflated.
Assume I would do the following:
1. Raise rear of tractor off ground.
2. Rotate tires where valve is at 12 o’clock
3. Deflate tires and remove valves
4. Put fluid in tires following PSI recommendation – hit 10 PSI, stop and let air out - to 75%
5. Put valves back in and inflate to 15 PSI
6. Lower tractor
7. Have cold beverage.....
Definitely leaning towards windshield wiper fluid. Also thinking that I may just fill half full – put the valve around 2 or 3 o’clock. May be cutting the grass with this – if I get a finish mower – and have R1 tires. Any thoughts on filling half way? If I find additional weight is needed and the half full is not hurting the yard will take on up to 75%.
Thanks,
Eddie
My tire size is 12.4-28 and my note should have read "May need to look at..." I just was not sure. I do have a drill pump that has worked good for me.
Do you think the drill pump would work on 12.4-28? If you pumped 23 gallons with the drill pump that should work for me I would think? What do you think? I was thinking about it today and was wondering if I could just put a valve and connector in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket. Sit the bucket on the fender and let gravity do the rest. Saw where someone mentioned this in another post. I really like the sophistication of the pressure gauge and relief valves though – that’s my first choice. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I am not sure if my tires are tube or tubeless. Will tube vs. non-tube make a difference? Worried about the tire sealing around the rim for the tubeless when deflated.
Assume I would do the following:
1. Raise rear of tractor off ground.
2. Rotate tires where valve is at 12 o’clock
3. Deflate tires and remove valves
4. Put fluid in tires following PSI recommendation – hit 10 PSI, stop and let air out - to 75%
5. Put valves back in and inflate to 15 PSI
6. Lower tractor
7. Have cold beverage.....
Definitely leaning towards windshield wiper fluid. Also thinking that I may just fill half full – put the valve around 2 or 3 o’clock. May be cutting the grass with this – if I get a finish mower – and have R1 tires. Any thoughts on filling half way? If I find additional weight is needed and the half full is not hurting the yard will take on up to 75%.
Thanks,
Eddie
rambler
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Some feel 1/2 full will create sloshing and rolling resistance, esp in high gear. Kinda unstablize things. Most recomment 75% so it covers the rim inside, less issues.
The choice is yours, as someone else said, this tends to be a controversioal topic. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Someone said CC is also toxic - that is incorrect. As a farmer, if I spill 10+ gallons of fuel, antifreeze, or other toxic chemicals, I'm subject to all kinds of EPA issues. CC does not qualify as a toxic substance. I appreciate that it will leave a dead spot on the lawn, but it will not ruin the environment or kill animals & children as other liquids do. I guess hobbiests don't have to live by the same rules as profesionals. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif While I respect that all sorts of liquids can and are used for weight, we best be careful on what we say about the classifications of these liquids. Shallow wells are no longer allowed in my state, due to such carelessness......
--->Paul
The choice is yours, as someone else said, this tends to be a controversioal topic. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Someone said CC is also toxic - that is incorrect. As a farmer, if I spill 10+ gallons of fuel, antifreeze, or other toxic chemicals, I'm subject to all kinds of EPA issues. CC does not qualify as a toxic substance. I appreciate that it will leave a dead spot on the lawn, but it will not ruin the environment or kill animals & children as other liquids do. I guess hobbiests don't have to live by the same rules as profesionals. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif While I respect that all sorts of liquids can and are used for weight, we best be careful on what we say about the classifications of these liquids. Shallow wells are no longer allowed in my state, due to such carelessness......
--->Paul
The main reason to fill at least 75% is really to make sure you fill high enough to immerse the rim. Reportedly, the part of the rim that sits above the water-line WILL rust where it is exposed to air inside the tire.
I am not sure how more than the initial amount of oxygen gets into the tire to keep the oxidation going very long, but that is what the manuals say the reason is for filling "above the top of the rim".
- Rick
I am not sure how more than the initial amount of oxygen gets into the tire to keep the oxidation going very long, but that is what the manuals say the reason is for filling "above the top of the rim".
- Rick
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
Hey Rick and Paul,
Thanks for straightening me out on the 75% full. Never occurred to me about sloshing around, but it makes total sense. Also makes good sense about keeping the rim covered.
With keeping the rim covered, I guess it does not matter if the tires are tubed or tubeless? I was concerned about letting the air out of the tire (tubless) and not getting a good seal as I am filling the tire back up with fluid. But, it sounds like that is not much of an issue.
Thanks again,
Eddie
Thanks for straightening me out on the 75% full. Never occurred to me about sloshing around, but it makes total sense. Also makes good sense about keeping the rim covered.
With keeping the rim covered, I guess it does not matter if the tires are tubed or tubeless? I was concerned about letting the air out of the tire (tubless) and not getting a good seal as I am filling the tire back up with fluid. But, it sounds like that is not much of an issue.
Thanks again,
Eddie
kenmac
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Henro, glad to see you made it back from kubota land. You have been gone for a while. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
3RRL
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Hi loboy9,
Before I loaded my tires I didn't know exactly what to do so I searched the net and this link is the best guide (I thought) to doing it. It is pretty comprehensive and shows you how to do it, how much to put in the fronts and rears according to what you are pulling or pushing. Also, keeping the weight balance between the front and rear and whether you have 2wd or 4wd. It also tells you how to get maximum traction and explains what that really is and how to test for it.
You may find it interesting and helpful as I did. I went through the whole proceedure and it was a great learning experience and a lot of fun. I am confident that my tires are loaded correctly for what I do and the tractor really feels more stable than before.
CLICK HERE
Before I loaded my tires I didn't know exactly what to do so I searched the net and this link is the best guide (I thought) to doing it. It is pretty comprehensive and shows you how to do it, how much to put in the fronts and rears according to what you are pulling or pushing. Also, keeping the weight balance between the front and rear and whether you have 2wd or 4wd. It also tells you how to get maximum traction and explains what that really is and how to test for it.
You may find it interesting and helpful as I did. I went through the whole proceedure and it was a great learning experience and a lot of fun. I am confident that my tires are loaded correctly for what I do and the tractor really feels more stable than before.
CLICK HERE
