Price Check Value 1947 8n

[Trapper71635]

I bought a 1947 Ford 8n running strong , I have some starting issues now . I'm wondering about the options of selling a non-running 8n , and buying another to continue my work on my property . I appreciate any and all advice , value of my tractor as is if anyone knows . Thanks

 

[GAFarmer2]

Trapper it's going to vary based on location and condition. What kind of shape is the sheet metal in? Good tires all around? Any idea how many hours on the motor? Rebuilt in the past? Do you know what the starting issues are?

Around here, the tractor market has "tanked". Not to hurt your feelings, but I've seen good running ones sell for about 1500-1700 dollars here just above the Florida line, and most non running ones in the 500-600 dollar range.

Rule of thumb: running tractor is almost always worth at least double the same model non-running. Just my experience...I wish you the best with it!

 

[Tractorable]

8N's are so easy to fix you should just fix it instead of selling it. Make sure the fuel screens in the sediment bowl and carb inlet are clean. Set the point gap to 0.025. Start with that and see how she runs.

Non-running 8N's go for under $1K. A good running 8N should bring $2k depending on location.

 

[CJerry]

8N's are so easy to fix you should just fix it instead of selling it. Make sure the fuel screens in the sediment bowl and carb inlet are clean. Set the point gap to 0.025. Start with that and see how she runs.

Non-running 8N's go for under $1K. A good running 8N should bring $2k depending on location.

Literally, they are easier than a lawn mower :-D probably cheaper to fix too.
You can buy the sediment bowl/fuel shutoff on amazon, carburetor also.

 

[mapper]

I was able to sell mine for $1800 about 2 years ago, it had nearly new rubber on the rear, ran well, 12V conversion. The sheet metal was in fair condition. That was about the best price you could expect around here.

 

[mapper]

Are you sure it's a 47? They didn't start producing them until 48.

 

[Tractorable]

Right, a 1947 would be a 9N. They're worth less because if I recall correctly they have a 3 speed transmission and a little less horsepower. The side mount distributor came in 1950 which was a lot easier to service than the front mount distributor on earlier models.

 

[motownbrowne]

Sold my non running '49 for $750, with good rubber and some new parts.

Sold my '52 with the over-under Sherman transmission and great rubber for $1800.

They aren't hard to fix. Also, even when running, they're not great tractors. If you sell yours, get something better like a 600, 800, 2000, or 3000.

 

[NC419N]

Sold my non running '49 for $750, with good rubber and some new parts.

Sold my '52 with the over-under Sherman transmission and great rubber for $1800.

They aren't hard to fix. Also, even when running, they're not great tractors. If you sell yours, get something better like a 600, 800, 2000, or 3000.

"Not Great Tractors" please consider when they were produced what they replaced (mule's, horse, nothing) the 9N 2N and 8N were nothing short of great. But if you consider today's options they are less than Ideal but they revolutionized farming forever!!!
I would say min $600 Advertise on Craigs list or here and I'm sure it will sell fast

 

[motownbrowne]

"Not Great Tractors" please consider when they were produced what they replaced (mule's, horse, nothing) the 9N 2N and 8N were nothing short of great. But if you consider today's options they are less than Ideal but they revolutionized farming forever!!!
I would say min $600 Advertise on Craigs list or here and I'm sure it will sell fast

You don't have to tell me. We farmed vegetables with 2 8Ns up until 2014. Yeah, compared to horses, they're much better (unless you like horses, I suppose...). And the three point hitch was absolutely revolutionary, yes.

But... Compared to tractors made even just a few years later, they are really a lot less effective. Things like live power, live hydraulics, a reasonably geared transmission (1st and reverse are too fast on an N), power steering, a differential lock, etc. make for a MUCH more useful tractor. Nothing worse than bogging down a bush hog on the N. Gotta step on the clutch, shift to neutral, release the clutch, raise the three point, step on the clutch again, shift to first, release the clutch and continue mowing. A tractor with live hydraulics doesn't have this problem.