Thanks Pedalstomper.
In the meantime, I cornered the service manager at the local dealer to bend his ear on the proper procedure. He explained that especially on a 3 cyl engine it is critical to make sure that the piston must be at TDC for the cyl you are adjusting the valves on.
He went on: Working front to back starting with cyl #1, Turn the crankshaft (CS) clockwise and look for when the exhaust valve completely closes and the intake valve just starts to open. One will very closely follow the other, and there may even be some overlap of the two. Rotate the crank back and forth a bit to find the midpoint between the closing of the Exh. and the opening of the Int. valves. Then once achieved, mark the very top of the crank pulley with chalk or a spot of paint. What you have just found is the very end of the exhaust stroke and the very beginning of the intake stroke. Next, rotate the crank clockwise exactly 360 degrees, (One Full rotation) until the chalk mark comes back to the very top position. This is now TDC for that particular cylinder, ie. the very end of the compression stroke and the very start of the power stroke. BOTH valves on the cyl. should be CLOSED, and the pushrods & rocker arms should both be loose. Keeping the crank still and not moving it, make the adjustment to the valve adjusters on the rocker arms of that particular cylinder as per the manual diagram.
Repeat this procedure for cyls #2 & #3, working front to back. Once done, you should have three chalk marks on the crank pulley spaced about 120 degrees apart.
I think I have accurately repeated everything I can remember from our 5 minute conversation.
On mine, there is a rather large o-ring used to seal the valve cover, it costs about $14. He said to replace it cause "It WILL leak if you do not replace it".
Cold valve lash setting on the TC29D is .008" or .2mm
Thanks again to pedalstomper for the copy of the manual page.