I have recently purchased a Satoh Beaver III S373. My problem is that when i lift my 3pt attachment especially under a load the front blade will go down. The front blade has a single cylinder and the valve that controls it looks to me like a valve for a wood splitter, it will stay in the up position until the cylinder retracts then will return to center. I Know i am probably not giving enough details but my experience with hydraulics on tractors is limited. Any help or suggestion on how to trouble shoot will be appreciated.
Valve problem
- Thread starter lilbever
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J_J
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Do you have one or two spools for the loader valve?
It would appear that your loader spools are leaking.
They are supposed to block fluid or hold fluid in the FEL neutral position.
Dose your lift arms drift down over night?
It would appear that your loader spools are leaking.
They are supposed to block fluid or hold fluid in the FEL neutral position.
Dose your lift arms drift down over night?
olde man
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does your loader valve hold a true center or is there in/out play in it?
Thank you for your responses
The valve is a single spoon valve that operates a double action cylinder to raise and lower a dozer blade on front. I have left the blade and the box blade in back in the up position for a few days in the garage and they didn't move. I have also strapped the blade in the up position while working the three point attachment and the blade goes down with pressure and will break the strap. It is also dependent on the weight that the 3 pt is put under, when i lift something with any weight the spoon on the valve will move forward, if there is nothing attached to the 3pt and i just raise and lower the arms everything is fine unless i hold it in the up position after the arms are already up.
I don't know if it makes a difference but i think the valve is a log splitter valve. It has a detente for the up position. Also i can use the tractor all day and the blade will stay up until i raise the 3 pt attachment.
I dont know if this matters but the arm that raises the 3pt has a neutral position that you move it to when the implement is at the level that you want it to be at. It is not like other tractors that i have used where you just put the lever at the level you want it at and leave it.(hope that makes sense).
The manual sates there is an adjustment on how fast you want the 3pt to raise and lower. Right now it moves very fast and is hard to set at any position besides all the way up or down. i am going to try to adjust it this weekend.
The valve is a single spoon valve that operates a double action cylinder to raise and lower a dozer blade on front. I have left the blade and the box blade in back in the up position for a few days in the garage and they didn't move. I have also strapped the blade in the up position while working the three point attachment and the blade goes down with pressure and will break the strap. It is also dependent on the weight that the 3 pt is put under, when i lift something with any weight the spoon on the valve will move forward, if there is nothing attached to the 3pt and i just raise and lower the arms everything is fine unless i hold it in the up position after the arms are already up.
I don't know if it makes a difference but i think the valve is a log splitter valve. It has a detente for the up position. Also i can use the tractor all day and the blade will stay up until i raise the 3 pt attachment.
I dont know if this matters but the arm that raises the 3pt has a neutral position that you move it to when the implement is at the level that you want it to be at. It is not like other tractors that i have used where you just put the lever at the level you want it at and leave it.(hope that makes sense).
The manual sates there is an adjustment on how fast you want the 3pt to raise and lower. Right now it moves very fast and is hard to set at any position besides all the way up or down. i am going to try to adjust it this weekend.
KubotaSam
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I believe your valve for the blade is plumbed in series before the vale that controls the 3 point hitch. A long time ago I had the same symptoms on an old terratrack bulldozer when I added a hydraulic boom to the back. I added another valve after the blade valve for the boom. With the valves in series when I operated the boom the blade on the front would go down with pressure like you are experiencing. I could watch the lever on the blade move from pressure inside pushing the spool forward. I solved my problem by using a valve with power beyond as the first valve in the line.
What happens if you hold the blade valve to center as you are lifting the 3 point? My guess is it will work correctly.
What happens if you hold the blade valve to center as you are lifting the 3 point? My guess is it will work correctly.
Sam
That makes sense and could b my problem. I tested it this morning and when lifting the 3pt the blade does not move with the handle pulled witch would indicate that the 3pt is inline before the spoon valve for the blade. If i could find a schematic for this old tractor i think i could figure it out. I just don't want to start trying thins and ruin the pump.
there are two outputs on the spoon valve and one is labeled energy out, would that be the power beyond port? And if i use the power beyond port would i just plug the other port?
i took some pictures showing the plumbing and will try to attach them.
Thanks
That makes sense and could b my problem. I tested it this morning and when lifting the 3pt the blade does not move with the handle pulled witch would indicate that the 3pt is inline before the spoon valve for the blade. If i could find a schematic for this old tractor i think i could figure it out. I just don't want to start trying thins and ruin the pump.
there are two outputs on the spoon valve and one is labeled energy out, would that be the power beyond port? And if i use the power beyond port would i just plug the other port?
i took some pictures showing the plumbing and will try to attach them.
Thanks
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J_J
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I would suggest to remove the log splitter valve, if that is what it is.
I would remove all the water pipe fittings.
The blade should probably have a float position.
You could make this work correctly with this valve.
Just plug the curl ports/spool 2 if you do not want to adjust the front blade for tilt.
Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 7 GPM CROSS SS OC W/ PBYD VALVE
This is the way the hyd plumbing should go if you used the valve above.
From pump to IN port of new valve, from PB port to IN of 3pt valve, the tank or OUT port would go to tank.
Work ports would go to front cyl.
With this valve you would have PB and float, and an extra spool.
I would remove all the water pipe fittings.
The blade should probably have a float position.
You could make this work correctly with this valve.
Just plug the curl ports/spool 2 if you do not want to adjust the front blade for tilt.
Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 7 GPM CROSS SS OC W/ PBYD VALVE
This is the way the hyd plumbing should go if you used the valve above.
From pump to IN port of new valve, from PB port to IN of 3pt valve, the tank or OUT port would go to tank.
Work ports would go to front cyl.
With this valve you would have PB and float, and an extra spool.
Thanks for the reply. I think the valve you suggested will be perfect.
I looked up the valve and found it is a log splitter valve, and had already decided to replace it. The only thing that I have to work out is where to plumb the line to the tank -- which is the transmission on this tractor.
I looked up the valve and found it is a log splitter valve, and had already decided to replace it. The only thing that I have to work out is where to plumb the line to the tank -- which is the transmission on this tractor.
