Valvoline Premium Blue

[Rusty]

Has anyone used Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 in their CUT? Any likes or dislikes with it?

 

[gsxr1100]

Un-used oil test of VPB.

Aluminum 3ppm
Chromium 0ppm
Iron 2ppm
Copper 0ppm
Lead 0ppm
Tin 0ppm
Molybdenum 88ppm
Nickel 0ppm
Manganese 0ppm
Silver 0ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Potassium 0ppm
Boron 142ppm
Silicon 5ppm
Sodium 2ppm
Calcium 3076ppm
Magnesium 10ppm
Phosphorus 1197ppm
Zinc 1395ppm
Barium 0ppm
SUS Viscosity@210F 76.2
Flashpoint 435F
Insolubles Trace
TBN 13.1

Sulfated ash content of 1.6%

It is a group 2 oil and should be fine with normal use.

 

[_RaT_]

Well Rusty I'd say your question has pretty much been answered. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Rusty]

Mike (gsxr1100) and RaT - Thanks for the responses! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mike - Where did you get the analytical results? Do you have specification ranges for the same parameters? I assume some of the parameters are desirable components/additives and some are contaminants/wear by-products. Which parameters are better with higher values, and which parameters are better with lower values? And, what are Group 2, 3, 4/5? Thanks for the response! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Rusty /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

I got the dino from BITOG. I like my Calcium 3Kppm min, Phosphorus 1150 to 1200ppm min, TBN of 11.0 min and Zinc 1200 min.

The issue with most group 3 and below oils is the adds begin to brake down very soon since the base stock is not very good per say. If you had a group 4 or 5 the basestock would buffer the adds better. So on the lower groups the buffer is not as good so the adds get depleted quicker.

That is the simple version. Moly in the oil is up to you or the user. Wither way I do not care.

Do a search since I think I posted on it. Quick version.

Group 1 is dino (cheap oil)
Group 2 is dino (better then 1 but again like $1.20 per qt)
Group 3 is a hydrocracked dino oil (usually a blend of a low group and a PAO) Better then grp 1 and 2 but for the price, by a real synthetic.
Group 4 is PAO based, good all around synthetic. Amsoil, some Mobils, Racing Royal Purple, etc
Group 5 is ester based, the best out there for synthetic. Amsoil, Redline, Motul etc.

I just changed to Amsoil series 3000 to run and test. I should have there 15w-40 HDD&M analysis in any day now from my BX22.

 

[frank_f15]

HUH? very interesting reading. But i always thought , u buy a good qualitly oil , change it at frequent intervals and you are ok. i wonder how our old tractors from the 40's and 50's survived all those years? not trying to say all oil is the same ,but i do beleive that any good oil is sufficent for proper lurication.

 

[gsxr1100]

Here is why I am trying to get out of the oil debates. I do not know what defines “frequent intervals” or “quality oil”. These terms mean very different things to everyone. I know that a group 4 or 5 can go 2 to 5X longer then any dino out there.

As I have stated in the past you can run an engine on very
cheap oil. You HAVE to drain in short miles/hours since the oil begins to break down very soon. Plus the adds are 9 out of 10 times VERY low in cheap oils; hence the cheap price. Want a better base and add pack, it cost money.

So to close look at oil tests from any oil and select from there. I know my equipment deserves much better then dino, but again that is me. To me even at $10 per qt, oil is cheap.

 

[Spiffy]

You're trying to get out of the oil debates, so I just have to go and ask another question... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

What about Interlube Opti-4 and the other small engine oils that will "double your engine warranty"? I'm guessing they're decent quality, but nothing truely revolutionary, and the warranty legitimate, but mostly hype. Am I way off base?

Thanks!
Chad

 

[_RaT_]

I have found nothing better then the Opti 2 product for 2 stroke. I would assume their 4 cycle oil is very good as well.

 

[gsxr1100]

I would say it is the same warranty (on top of) like the items you can get at stores (washer dryer etc). The warranty is covered by Interlube, not the OEM. I do not trust the hype since most time there are major loopholes with these statements.


There are the ones that state the ratio is the same in all 2-cycle equipment. Can you say a bold and incorrect statement. Plus I do not trust a company that does not post what the oil properties are.