Very little steering to the right

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
Well I know for sure now that my tractor barely turns to the right. If I hold the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, both wheels straight ahead and I turn the steering wheel to the left, it goes 2.5 turns before it stops and the rear of the fron tire comes about 1/2 inch from the loader frame. When I then straighten out the front wheels again and turn the steering wheel to the right, it only turns one full turn before stopping doesn't turn nearly as sharp as to the left.
How do I check to differentiate between the hydraulic's being a problem or something else maybe not being centered???
Anyone else seen this?
Now I know that I have a 395 Motor, how is it that the 354 and the 304 have the same motor, but the 354 has 5 more Horsepower?
Thanks all in advance
Rick

 

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
Well I know for sure now that my tractor barely turns to the right. If I hold the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, both wheels straight ahead and I turn the steering wheel to the left, it goes 2.5 turns before it stops and the rear of the fron tire comes about 1/2 inch from the loader frame. When I then straighten out the front wheels again and turn the steering wheel to the right, it only turns one full turn before stopping doesn't turn nearly as sharp as to the left.
How do I check to differentiate between the hydraulic's being a problem or something else maybe not being centered???
Anyone else seen this?
Now I know that I have a 395 Motor, how is it that the 354 and the 304 have the same motor, but the 354 has 5 more Horsepower?
Thanks all in advance
Rick

 

[RonMar]

I am not specifically familliar with your tractor but I would Remove the clamps and slide back the rubber dust boot that protects the rod of the hydraulic steering cylinder. If it is anything like the 200 series, the ball joint that connects to the left wheel assembly is screwed onto the end of the rod on the steering cylinder and is held in place with a large jam nut. If this nut has come loose, it is possible that the rod has been slowly unscrewing itself from the ball joint. This makes the rod/linkage longer and the cylinder has to be more and more compressed/retracted for the wheels to remain straight. Since the cylinder compresses/retracts to turn to the right, with the rod unscrewed it is probably only able to retract a short distance when turning to the right before the cylinder bottoms out.

I tore the boot on my 284 and discovered that the jam nut was loose and the rod had backed out a considerable distance. Since it was under the boot, I didn't think to check it to see if it was tight like I did the rest of the hardware when I received the tractor. It is possible that if allowed to uscrew, this could cause a loss of steering at a bad time.

 

[RonMar]

I am not specifically familliar with your tractor but I would Remove the clamps and slide back the rubber dust boot that protects the rod of the hydraulic steering cylinder. If it is anything like the 200 series, the ball joint that connects to the left wheel assembly is screwed onto the end of the rod on the steering cylinder and is held in place with a large jam nut. If this nut has come loose, it is possible that the rod has been slowly unscrewing itself from the ball joint. This makes the rod/linkage longer and the cylinder has to be more and more compressed/retracted for the wheels to remain straight. Since the cylinder compresses/retracts to turn to the right, with the rod unscrewed it is probably only able to retract a short distance when turning to the right before the cylinder bottoms out.

I tore the boot on my 284 and discovered that the jam nut was loose and the rod had backed out a considerable distance. Since it was under the boot, I didn't think to check it to see if it was tight like I did the rest of the hardware when I received the tractor. It is possible that if allowed to uscrew, this could cause a loss of steering at a bad time.

 

[JohnS]

Like Ron, I don't have much experiece with the 300 series jinma. Please note, that with a hyd piston you will not get the same amount of steering wheel turns in one direction as the other. Physically, the wheels should stop at similiar distances, to each side. Sounds like your is not doing that. After doing Ron's recommended check, (its a common issue on 200 series jinma), consider the following. It is how I'd try to issolate the issue:

Determine if it is a mechanical stop or binding:
- Raise front wheels just off the ground, easy since you have a fel.
- Recheck back and forth movement. If it is not going to full rotation in one direction, should be able to tell it is binding or hitting on something.

Hydraulic Check:
- If hyd lines reach, swap the lines on the steering cyl/piston.
- If problem stays in the same right or left front wheel direction, suspect the cyl/piston.
- If problem moves to the other direction, suspect the steering control box.
- Note: make sure hoses are swapped back after test. Do the test, with weight on front end.

This also assumes you do not have any flow or pressure problems. Thats easyto tell on 200 series jinma, because most have only one pump. If your 300 series has two pumps, one is probably dedicated to steering. Make sure it has enough fluid and working. I'd suspect this, if on the mechanical binding test, it went to full distance in both directions, with no weight on it.

anyway, hope this helps.

 

[JohnS]

Like Ron, I don't have much experiece with the 300 series jinma. Please note, that with a hyd piston you will not get the same amount of steering wheel turns in one direction as the other. Physically, the wheels should stop at similiar distances, to each side. Sounds like your is not doing that. After doing Ron's recommended check, (its a common issue on 200 series jinma), consider the following. It is how I'd try to issolate the issue:

Determine if it is a mechanical stop or binding:
- Raise front wheels just off the ground, easy since you have a fel.
- Recheck back and forth movement. If it is not going to full rotation in one direction, should be able to tell it is binding or hitting on something.

Hydraulic Check:
- If hyd lines reach, swap the lines on the steering cyl/piston.
- If problem stays in the same right or left front wheel direction, suspect the cyl/piston.
- If problem moves to the other direction, suspect the steering control box.
- Note: make sure hoses are swapped back after test. Do the test, with weight on front end.

This also assumes you do not have any flow or pressure problems. Thats easyto tell on 200 series jinma, because most have only one pump. If your 300 series has two pumps, one is probably dedicated to steering. Make sure it has enough fluid and working. I'd suspect this, if on the mechanical binding test, it went to full distance in both directions, with no weight on it.

anyway, hope this helps.

 

[bluechip]

Rick,
If the steering wheel stops at the end of the travel each way, I would suspect somthing in the linkage, most likely under the rubber boot as has already been mentioned. be sure when your wheels are pointing straaigh ahead, you have just a little tow in. check the stop adjustments on the wheels.

As to your engine questions, if it is pre EPA engine, the only difference is the 30hp is rated at 2000 rpm and 35 is rated at a higher (maybe 2300 i dont rememver) rpm. ther is no difference at all just like the 25 and 28hp in the 200 series. If it is an EPA approved engine, the 30 hp has less emmissions equipment than the 35HP. you can tell by the small pump on the back of the alternator. If you have it its a 35HP if not it is a 30 hp.

 

[bluechip]

Rick,
If the steering wheel stops at the end of the travel each way, I would suspect somthing in the linkage, most likely under the rubber boot as has already been mentioned. be sure when your wheels are pointing straaigh ahead, you have just a little tow in. check the stop adjustments on the wheels.

As to your engine questions, if it is pre EPA engine, the only difference is the 30hp is rated at 2000 rpm and 35 is rated at a higher (maybe 2300 i dont rememver) rpm. ther is no difference at all just like the 25 and 28hp in the 200 series. If it is an EPA approved engine, the 30 hp has less emmissions equipment than the 35HP. you can tell by the small pump on the back of the alternator. If you have it its a 35HP if not it is a 30 hp.

 

[Momboy007]

Thank you all for the great advise, I will try all these tests over the Weekend. If I have a FEL, how does that make it easier to list the front tires off the ground?
Once again,
Thanks all
Rick

 

[Momboy007]

Thank you all for the great advise, I will try all these tests over the Weekend. If I have a FEL, how does that make it easier to list the front tires off the ground?
Once again,
Thanks all
Rick