Generally, I am against 12 volt conversions on tractors that left the factory at 6 volt. Usually folks do that, to make starting easier, as their engine begins to show excessive wear and corresponding compression loss. If I am buying a used tractor, especially when it is cold outside, if it is 6 volts, and still starts good, I don't need to go much further to know that I am getting an engine that still has a lot of life left in it. Not so after it is converted to 12 volts. I usually just "walk away" from those, as it ain't too difficult to find good, used, 6 volt tractors. Also, that 6-12 conversion significantly drops the collector value of rarer models, such as the old Ford trikes, that Soundguy is fond of.
There are probably more folks out there who prefer 12 volt converted tractors over original 6-volters, but I just ain't one of them, for the reasons I gave above. My 1951 Ford 8n still starts good, even when the temp drops below zero, on 6 volts. I do admit that, even for me, the old, stubburn, Dutchman that I am, there are some exceptions to this. I run one tractor, that came from the factory at 6 volts, And I converted and now use at 12 volts (10 hp, Farmall Cub). Much of that tractor's duty consists of operating a 12 volt, 15 gal. sprayer. I use that on my apple orchard, gardens, and to put Roundup on field corn (while cultivating). I don't think them little sprayer pumps are even available in 6 volt, and if they were, they would definitely cost more and be harder to find parts for.
For snowplowing in the winter,that little tractor does start real good on 12 volts, never needing any either no mater how far below zero the temperature drops. What was your reason for converting to 12 volts?
As far as other options, all I can think of, that Soundguy left out, Are: First, a stabilizer link kit for the 3 pt lower link arms. I used the same one (From TSC) on both a 1951 Ford 8n, and a 1970 something Ford 2000 diesel, so it should also fit your model. That will save your lower links when using something like a pond scoop in the reverse position. Lower links were designed for the tractor going forward, not reverse, and they don't hold up very well for that. The addition of the stabilizer link kit will completely protect them lower links.
Second, I like to fabricate a little bracket, and hang a hammer on the back of a fender, to ease in implement mount/dismount, shear-pin removal, etc..
Third, on my bush-hog tractor, I fabricated a canopy that works better than any commercial model I have used, including them big fiberglass ones you often see on Fords. I made mine a little bigger yet, and deeper, so it blocks the sun better. I also minimized weight by using a canvas (old, brown-duck boat cover), over wood (2x2 pine) frame construction, and a couple small steel support rod construction. It connects to the roll bar and frame with (4) bolts, and is so light that I can lift it with one arm, and have it on or off in just over a minute. It has also held up well for 10 seasons now. I sometimes get in fights on this site over this, but I much prefer that canopy, on hot, sunny day, over an air-conditioned cab. The cool breeze I get in that open-station, while completely protected from the suns punishing rays beats out them cabs hands down on smaller tractors. In more than 40 years of running open-station tractors, I am still waiting for my first bee sting.
Good luck with you Ford. I hope it gives you many years of great service, as has every Ford I ever owned.
