Shooting enamel with an HVLP gun doesn't require a huge compressor. Just take your time and don't try to paint everything in a few seconds. Use medium to slow drying reducer to let the paint flow. High speed reducers and/or high ambient temps up the ante as far as skill level required. Use lower pressures and thin paint accordingly. (25/30psi) Experiment with an old car hood or as I did, my shop refridgerator. (red/silver/grey/green/yellow/blue GE!!) Find an automotive paint supply store and ask a LOT of questions. Don't try any "high tech" multi-stage paint "systems" at first. Stay with a simple acrylic enamel. Use a quality grade/brand, ESPECIALLY with the orange portion. Cheap paints are less fade resistant. Orange will "chalk" in sunlight or over time anyway. OEM paints (from dealer) are almost without fail, good paints. And suprisingly enough, USUALLY available at a decent price. And with OEM, you get the best likelyhood of a good color match.
If you're removing all the sheet metal to paint, (and that's just about a MUST on 2-toned paint jobs) paint the under side of the hood, ect, first. That'll give you just a bit of practice before shooting the "look at me" side.
Because of relatively small areas of flat surface, even the sheet metal of a tractor is not all that hard to paint. (compared to a car...) Castings/chassis is a piece of cake. I've seen several that were brush painted or shot with "spray bombs" that looked show quality. It's ALMOST impossible to screw up that part.
As is the case with any project, take your time, don't get upset when there's a small mistake, and use it as a learning experience. There's an INCREDABLE sense of pride of accomplishment when you're done.
