Vinyl Siding Overlay

[yooperdave]

I want to install new vinyl siding over my existing wood clap board siding.

How is this easily done?

Do I have to remove my existing wood clap board siding or is there an easier way?

Thanks

Yooper Dave

 

[ToadHill]

You don't have to remove anything. Before you try to "Hang" the siding you install stryafoam sheets about 1/2" thick, then "Hang" the vinyl off of that.

 

[Tig]

We put vertical strapping (2x2) on with 1.5" styrofoam in between. Nail siding to the stapping.
Toadhills method will work as well. It all depends on how much insulation you want to add.
If the clapboard has curled at all spike it down first.

 

[Bird]

Yep, you can use different thicknesses of styrofoam, depending on how much insulation you think you need, or in my case, I had Alcoa Structure vinyl siding put on with the styrofoam bonded to the vinyl instead of putting sheets of styrofoam on the walls first. I liked it because it's more solid instead of having the void behind each piece of vinyl, but I don't know that it's any better or worse than the usual siding.

 

[yooperdave]

I should have mentioned that the vinyl siding was for an attached garage. I do not want to buy any insulation if possible.

I was thinking of screwing down some 1/4" thick plywood sheets. The low spots would be filled with wood blocking where an attachment would be required.

Does this sound acceptable?

Regards,

Yooper Dave

 

[Robert_in_NY]

The 1/2" foam sheets would be easier to install and should do the job without the trouble of dealing with plywood. If you do want to use plywood it will work as a backer but I prefer foam as it is so much easier.

 

[Bird]

Dave, are you going to do this job yourself? If so, I hope you know that you don't want the nails driven all the way in solid. Instead of nail "holes", the vinyl siding has nail (or screw) "slots" so it can slide back and forth on the nails as it shrinks and expands with temperature changes. My "shop" had T-111 siding, so I had Tyvek put on first, then the vinyl with polystyrene foam (instead of styrofoam as I said before) bonded to it. You know you can put 1/4" styrofoam on the walls first if you don't care about adding insulation and I think it would be cheaper than the plywood, but of course there's no other reason I can think of for you to not use the plywood if that's what you want.

 

[sugarmaple]

If you have some contractor friends, see if you can borrow a Bostich stapler setup for vinyl. As Bird points out, it is important to allow the vinyl space to expand and contract and this gun automatically spaces the staples leaving ample space. Once you get the hang of it, you can really fly. The cutter has to hustle to even begin to keep up. A sliding compound miter saw with a plywood type blade (small teeth) will help. Putting up all the trim pieces takes the most time; the field can be knocked off in no time at all.

 

[Tig]

1/4" ply would work fine but you would not be sorry going with the 1/2" styrofoam SM. Makes the garage a bit warmer and probably no extra cost over plywood.

 

[yooperdave]

How do you detail around the doors and windows & corners with the added thickness of the insulation behind the vinyl? Can you buy deeper C-channels?

Menards has their 0.046" thickness premium vinyl siding on sale now, and I am ready to back up the truck.

Thanks,

Yooper Dave

 

[ray66v]

How do you detail around the doors and windows & corners with the added thickness of the insulation behind the vinyl? Can you buy deeper C-channels?
Yooper Dave

This is why I would not use anything thick, (i.e. more than 1/4"), under the siding. Even if you go through the trouble to build every thing out it still usually looks odd.

If you really want a nice job, pull the old siding and install 7/16 OSB with a layer of house wrap, (the wrap is necessary because some water does get behind vinyl siding). It would not be that tough, and would be worth the effort.

 

[builder2]

Yooper Dave,

What you need to level out the surface of the clapboard siding for the new vinyl is 1/4" foam fanfold insulation. It comes 3' x 50' and I use a roofing stapler to fasten it on the edges (high spot) of the clapboards. Any siding supplier will usually have it in stock. Then use 1 3/4" - 2" roofing nails to install the siding and vinyl trim. Your corner and window trim boards usually stick out past the clapboards about 7/16" and with the 1/4" insulation installed you still have something to butt your j-channel to.


The thickness of the siding on the edge is what makes vinyl lay out flat on the wall. Quest (by Alcoa) is a good siding that has about 7/8 thick ribs on it and you can manipulate the nails in and out to cover most wall deformities.

Did you get the snow we got here in Mich. last nite? I have a son by Osh Kosh and know you have had plenty of snow that way this year.

Good luck on your job,

Paul