Grapple W.R. Long Grapple

   / W.R. Long Grapple
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Placed an order today for a RBG2-60" grapple so eventually I will get you some photos and give a review.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #22  
Did you get a valve kit too? I've grown to like my WRLong diverter valve. It took a while to get used to it after being familiar with the rear remote set up but I am now pretty comfortable with the diverter and like it.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple
  • Thread Starter
#23  
No valve kit, for now I'm just going to use the remotes but at some point I will get one.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #24  
You'll do fine with the remotes. I used that for two years and had a hard time adjusting to the diverter valve once I got a new tractor. As with any new control (diverter or remote), it will take 4-5 hours of use before things become natural to you but it will happen.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #25  
IslandTractor said:
You'll do fine with the remotes. I used that for two years and had a hard time adjusting to the diverter valve once I got a new tractor. As with any new control (diverter or remote), it will take 4-5 hours of use before things become natural to you but it will happen.


Island -

Not trying to hijack the thread but I'm curious if after using both the remotes, and now the diverter, is the diverter worth the addl. $500 or so?

I'm using my rear remotes, and while not quite as convenient, are functional. Also, I'm curious as to what made you decide to purchase the diverter?
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #26  
1bush2hog said:
I'm curious if after using both the remotes, and now the diverter, is the diverter worth the addl. $500 or so?

I'm using my rear remotes, and while not quite as convenient, are functional. Also, I'm curious as to what made you decide to purchase the diverter?

I used a rear remote to control the grapple on my CK20 for two years and was perfectly happy with that arrangement. I got a WRLong diverter essentially for free as part of a purchase of a used 4n1 bucket for my new DK40se so I decided to have the diverter installed. It took some getting used to and I am still (40hrs later) still not quite as comfortable with it as I was with the separate remote lever but I don't have any complaints. If I were to do it over I would mostly consider where the remote lever would be and whether it was in a natural place so that you could drop your hand from the FEL controller to the remote without looking. If you needed to reach around something or if the motion was not one that quickly became "unconscious" (like driving a stick shift car) then I'd say the diverter would be better.

The only downside of the diverter for me at least is that you need to be careful in timing the pressing and release of the button so you don't get combined movement of open/close with dump/curl. For example, if you still have the FEL lever pushed into the close/curl position with your finger on the button to divert to grapple close and then you release your finger before allowing the FEL control lever to return to neutral position, the grapple will curl unexpectedly. That is never an issue with rear remotes as your hand is off the FEL controller and therefore it is in neutral position automatically. It may seem dopey to have that problem but when you are working fast it is remarkably easy to inadvertently curl or dump the grapple. Not really a big deal but it is for me a downside of the diverter set up compared to the rear remote. Electric over hydraulic set ups would avoid that but I have a standard diverter set up.

It would not have been difficult to use the rear remotes on my new tractor. On my DK I have two sets of rear remotes. One, the standard remote, has a controller with indents and the other optional one is just spring loaded with no indents. I'd clearly use the one without indents so I didn't inadvertently lock the grapple in open or closed position. The remote with indents is really intended for a BH or log splitter where you would put it in the "on" position and leave it there. For controlling a grapple it is better to have a remote control lever that is just spring loaded so it returns automatically to neutral (off) position as soon as you release it.

Bottom line for me is that I would prefer to spend $500-600 on an extra implement and just use the rear remote to control a grapple so long as the ergonomics of the remote and FEL controller are convenient. I am happy with the WR Long diverter valve but it is not really such an advantage over using a well designed rear remote set up.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #27  
Island, Do you think a true 3rd function valve would be easier?
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #28  
shaley said:
Island, Do you think a true 3rd function valve would be easier?

It would overcome the issue I described of having inadvertent loader movements when you let go of the diverter button too soon. A true third function valve (what I believe is also referred to as electric over hydraulic by WRLong) would be nice but is even more expensive than the diverter set up. I'm not certain but I think you end up pretty close to $800+ by the time you get one of those installed.

Bottom line for me is that if you have a rear remote you might as well use it to see if you are satisfied. If you don't have a rear remote and don't see any other reason to add one, then either the diverter or electric over hydraulic solutions are more money but work well. If money is no object then electric over hydraulic is best.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #29  
The electrohydraulic valve by WR Long is great. Don't recall price though, since was included in package of other dealer work.
 
   / W.R. Long Grapple #30  
i think what shaley really meant was a true extra valve by the joystick for the fel.i have mine set up with 3 extra valves.i think it was easier and less expensive than devierter valve
 

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