Warn series 18 winch install on front of 5095M

[oosik]

Cut the two vertical angle iron fairlead brackets loose. Move the bracket and fairlead forward. The fairlead should be far enough forward so that when the winch cable is pulled straight down, thru the fairlead, it will not come in contact with the welded structure( is this a bumper?? ).

I would then add welded angle iron side and back support "arms" to the existing vertical brackets. A piece of angle iron welded across the top - behind the fairlead wouldn't hurt either. This will connect both sides of the bracket and give added structural strength. The body of the winch can be left where it is.

 

[ovrszd]

If there's no infrastructure in the way it would take 15 minutes to move the winch. Drill four holes.

 

[oosik]

If there's no infrastructure in the way it would take 15 minutes to move the winch. Drill four holes.

Yes, exactly. IF the roller fairlead is connected to the body of the winch. Hard to tell.

 

[GimmeShelter]

I'll try to have the fairlead moved forward. There is a lip on the top of the bumper that could cause contact.

The flow will have to be controlled between the tractor and the winch to prevent damage. Here are the specs:

Winch max:
2400psi
15gpm

Tractor:
2828psi
24.7gpm

Here's the SCV layout:

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF you intend to make hard pulls with that winch, I hope you aren't just bolting it to the front of your tractor and calling it good!

I've seen more than a couple tractors pulled apart, from just pulling on the front of them.

SR

 

[EddieWalker]

Why put the winch on the front of the tractor? Seems to me that every time I get stuck, it's a lot shorter way out by going backwards.

 

[GimmeShelter]

The M series has a frame, so I do not expect the machine to be pulled apart. If this is still a concern, call me out before I destroy the machine.

I could have gone for a logging winch if I wanted it in the rear. A 2800lbs forestry harrow on the 3pt presents a bit of a challenge in recovery from the rear.

The winch will be limited to infrequent recovery when stuck in mud.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Provided your front bumper and winch mount are tied into the mid frame of the tractor I do not see any concerns with your mounting location.

The fact that your tractor hydraulic system has a higher operating pressure than the winch is rated for is harder/more expensive to correct than the flow rates. Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust down the internal pressure relief for either the mid or rear SCVs? The winch itself is setup for operation from a simple 3-position SCV which is what is already on your tractor - if your pressure and flow rates were within the allowable input range you could simply connect one port of any SCV to side A of the winch and the other port to side B of the winch. Moving the SCV control one direction would spool the winch in and moving it the other way would spool the winch out.

While your pump output is 24.7gpm, the max flow through a single rear SCV is 18.4gpm. Presumably the mid SCVs are similar but I did not see that information published. I would recommend picking whichever SCV is most convenient for your overall plans, adjust the internal pressure relief below 2400psi, and hook it directly to your winch with one of these (or similar) on each line. 1/2 NPT 15 GPM Prince WFC-8 In-Line Flow Control | Flow Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
A quick search didn't show a fixed 15gpm flow restrictor, but that would be even better for your application.

Winch details include Warn's control valve schematic: https://www.4wd.com/sku/Warn/standard/74125.pdf

 

[ptsg]

That's a nice winch and bumper. It's nice to have the winch there.

I use my homemade hydraulic winch much more times that I thought.

According to TractorData, you have 24.7 GPM of Total flow. Which include the steering pump flow. The actual flow for the loader/remotes is 18.4 GPM.

In my opinion you will be just fine without any flow restrictor, although a pressure relief valve might be needed.

 

[Smokeydog]

Have thought about this too. Have a mile marker hydraulic winch on my truck. Had a smart grapple logging grapple with warn winch ssqa and modified for 3pt mount too.

Hydraulic winches like pto winches are scary strong. Don’t need much for self recovery. Use mine for logging and pulling trees mostly.

Your bumper looks weak. Use tubing. The mounting needs to be beefy.

Like the two speed and hand controller of the mile marker to reel cable in and out with one person. Makes repeated pulls so much faster. Now wireless remotes are common.

Anti-snarl plate on the winch drum a must. Warn makes factory ones or make one. Increases life and safety on cable.

2cents