Warn series 18 winch install on front of 5095M

[GimmeShelter]

I am installing a Warn series 18 hydraulic winch on the front of my 5095M to free the machine when mired. We're having a bit of difficulty in the hydraulic side of things.

Should I connect to the mid-mount SCV or run the line to the rear? Do I need a completely custom switch? I am aware of the flow rate and pressure disparities, so I am planning to add a flow regulator, relief valve and pressure gauge to protect the winch.

If anyone has any experience or knowledge in this field, I'd like to hear your ideas.

 

[ovrszd]

This will be interesting.

Hmmmm.... You are simply trying to run a hydraulic motor off the tractor hydraulics? Don't you need a SCV detent valve to do this. When in detent it provides constant flow to the winch motor??

Hopefully one of the hydraulic gurus will chime in and have the answer.

 

[Rustyiron]

Looks like your getting ready to mow ROW's. (power, gas lines)
I run a hyd. winch off or my rear remotes I have 3, and the one I have the winch plugged into needs to be held (detent wont hold it). It's on a log winch and I'm fine with it that way, and embarrassingly, never thought to try another pair to see if it would stay in "detent". Supposedly they're not all the same (detent wise) but for my use that is mostly operating cylinders and it's fine. Are your center SCV's controlled by a loader valve? That might be a consideration or reason to run it off the rear scv's as they can be funny with "regen" type valve's. Sorry, not much help to offer.

 

[oldnslo]

No reason that you cannot run a winch of the tractor hydraulics. Not familiar with the Deere mid SCV but 99% sure you could use that to control the winch. As far as flow could you idle the tractor down some or would this limit your available power for the wheels to assist in climbing out of the mud. I personally am not a fan of flow controls for motor operation since they create heat and reduce available torque at the motor.

 

[oosik]

I refer to the picture included on post #1. I advise that the location of the winch fairlead is not correct. Any pull to a ground based anchor point will not have the benefit of the bottom roller. It appears that the winch line will be pulled over the outer edge of the large welded structure - not the bottom roller. Hoping this is just due to the perspective of that picture.

 

[ddbackhoe]

I refer to the picture included on post #1. I advise that the location of the winch might not be ideal. Any pull to a ground based anchor point will not have the benefit of the bottom roller. It appears that the winch line will be pulled over the outer edge of the large welded structure - not the bottom roller. Hoping this is just due to the perspective of that picture.

Maybe weld a piece of pipe on the front edge of the bumper?

 

[oosik]

No - if the winch will be truly used - you need the benefit of the entire roller fairlead. Top, bottom & sides. Pulling a winch line over the leading edge of the welded structure will RAPIDLY damage the cable, can result in catastrophic failure and become a definite safety hazard.

A chunk of pipe welded on the leading edge will not alleviate this situation.

 

[WranglerX]

No - if the winch will be truly used - you need the benefit of the entire roller fairlead. Top, bottom & sides. Pulling a winch line over the leading edge of the welded structure will RAPIDLY damage the cable, can result in catastrophic failure and become a definite safety hazard.

A chunk of pipe welded on the leading edge will not alleviate this situation.

Agreed....

Dale

 

[ovrszd]

Looks like the winch could be moved forward. Maybe just back a couple inches from the front edge?

 

[Zebrafive]

Do you have Deluxe rear SCV(s)? If so, number 1 has a built in adjustable flow control. For a hydraulic motor, you connect the hoses so in "retract cylinder" the hydraulic motor runs the direction you want. You put the valve in float and when you want to operate the hydraulic motor, switch from float to retract.
To stop, switch back to float, NOT neutral. If you put it in neutral stand by pressure may damage the hydraulic motor.

 

[oosik]

Cut the two vertical angle iron fairlead brackets loose. Move the bracket and fairlead forward. The fairlead should be far enough forward so that when the winch cable is pulled straight down, thru the fairlead, it will not come in contact with the welded structure( is this a bumper?? ).

I would then add welded angle iron side and back support "arms" to the existing vertical brackets. A piece of angle iron welded across the top - behind the fairlead wouldn't hurt either. This will connect both sides of the bracket and give added structural strength. The body of the winch can be left where it is.

 

[ovrszd]

If there's no infrastructure in the way it would take 15 minutes to move the winch. Drill four holes.

 

[oosik]

If there's no infrastructure in the way it would take 15 minutes to move the winch. Drill four holes.

Yes, exactly. IF the roller fairlead is connected to the body of the winch. Hard to tell.

 

[GimmeShelter]

I'll try to have the fairlead moved forward. There is a lip on the top of the bumper that could cause contact.

The flow will have to be controlled between the tractor and the winch to prevent damage. Here are the specs:

Winch max:
2400psi
15gpm

Tractor:
2828psi
24.7gpm

Here's the SCV layout:

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF you intend to make hard pulls with that winch, I hope you aren't just bolting it to the front of your tractor and calling it good!

I've seen more than a couple tractors pulled apart, from just pulling on the front of them.

SR

 

[EddieWalker]

Why put the winch on the front of the tractor? Seems to me that every time I get stuck, it's a lot shorter way out by going backwards.

 

[GimmeShelter]

The M series has a frame, so I do not expect the machine to be pulled apart. If this is still a concern, call me out before I destroy the machine.

I could have gone for a logging winch if I wanted it in the rear. A 2800lbs forestry harrow on the 3pt presents a bit of a challenge in recovery from the rear.

The winch will be limited to infrequent recovery when stuck in mud.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Provided your front bumper and winch mount are tied into the mid frame of the tractor I do not see any concerns with your mounting location.

The fact that your tractor hydraulic system has a higher operating pressure than the winch is rated for is harder/more expensive to correct than the flow rates. Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust down the internal pressure relief for either the mid or rear SCVs? The winch itself is setup for operation from a simple 3-position SCV which is what is already on your tractor - if your pressure and flow rates were within the allowable input range you could simply connect one port of any SCV to side A of the winch and the other port to side B of the winch. Moving the SCV control one direction would spool the winch in and moving it the other way would spool the winch out.

While your pump output is 24.7gpm, the max flow through a single rear SCV is 18.4gpm. Presumably the mid SCVs are similar but I did not see that information published. I would recommend picking whichever SCV is most convenient for your overall plans, adjust the internal pressure relief below 2400psi, and hook it directly to your winch with one of these (or similar) on each line. 1/2 NPT 15 GPM Prince WFC-8 In-Line Flow Control | Flow Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
A quick search didn't show a fixed 15gpm flow restrictor, but that would be even better for your application.

Winch details include Warn's control valve schematic: https://www.4wd.com/sku/Warn/standard/74125.pdf

 

[ptsg]

That's a nice winch and bumper. It's nice to have the winch there.

I use my homemade hydraulic winch much more times that I thought.

According to TractorData, you have 24.7 GPM of Total flow. Which include the steering pump flow. The actual flow for the loader/remotes is 18.4 GPM.

In my opinion you will be just fine without any flow restrictor, although a pressure relief valve might be needed.

 

[Smokeydog]

Have thought about this too. Have a mile marker hydraulic winch on my truck. Had a smart grapple logging grapple with warn winch ssqa and modified for 3pt mount too.

Hydraulic winches like pto winches are scary strong. Don’t need much for self recovery. Use mine for logging and pulling trees mostly.

Your bumper looks weak. Use tubing. The mounting needs to be beefy.

Like the two speed and hand controller of the mile marker to reel cable in and out with one person. Makes repeated pulls so much faster. Now wireless remotes are common.

Anti-snarl plate on the winch drum a must. Warn makes factory ones or make one. Increases life and safety on cable.

2cents