warning beep

[DavesTractor]

I've never seen one without a wire to that switch. What's the serial number on the tractor?

 

[bindian]

OK I have another question for anybody with a 20 series. When you first turn the key on and all the lights on the dash come on for the self test do the healthy,service,low pressure, and high temp lights illuminate with the rest of the dash lights? Mine do not, but as soon as it starts the healthy light comes on. Is this normal? Maybe this could be the source of the constant beep?

All my lights come on when the key is turned to the on position, then goes out. The healthy engine light does not come on until the oil pressure is up.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SPYDERLK]

Hi all, could somebody please tell me why I can't get the warning beep to shut off. Its driving me crazy, I turned it off at 50 hrs and 250 I believe, and I dont know if it came on at 500 or not. I'm at 986 as of today,I have been running with it unplugged for the last 200 or so. I plugged it back in a couple of days ago and the stupid thing still beeps after about 5 minutes of run time.I have no warning lights or anything so I don't know I would like to stop it. Oh its a 7520, thanks for any advice.

Well I found the pressure switch and it has no wires on it,just a spade terminal sticking out of it. Now I have to find the wire. I spent an hour under it looking for a stray wire with no luck . So now I am in the process of removing g the floor board to see if it is on top somewhere. Brandi, Dave is correct, its a pain in the you know what. I'll remove the diff lock pedal and hopefully it will come out with a little persuasion. I'm just trying to find the wire and the wireing schematic to see where it should be. I'll let you know.

You and I have the same hrs on a 7520. Interesting to hear of that issue. I hadnt known it existed as a possiblity. Ill be on the lookout. I removed my rubber mat long ago so I could see under the floor a bit. I actually prefer the steel floor. How is your 7520 equipped? What year model.
larry

 

[rustyjeep]

Leave it to me to have an oddball machine. The serial # is KNG 974 I purchased it new in the fall of 2007 before leaving to go to Iraq. Its been relatively trouble free. I still haven't got the KSB issue corrected but its minor.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Does the KSB advance the injection timing for the first few minutes after starting? On mine you can hear the engine tone change from a slight rattle to smooth when it automatically retards. It seems to have a little more power before the injection retards.
larry
I want you to know that I appreciate the service you have given our country.

 

[rustyjeep]

I dont really understand what the KSB actually does, mines unplugged. I can deal with it, we rarely have sub-zero weather here and the only thing I use it for in the winter is feeding hay. I should have a service manual Monday and Im gonna do a little research when I get my beeping problem solved and my tractor put back together. It looks pretty wierd with the operators station removed.

Thanks for the kind words, I was honored to be able to serve the greatest nation in the world. I joined the Army when I was 17,stayed for 20 years, loved every one of them.

 

[rustyjeep]

I received my service manual today and after reading it cover to cover it leaves me more than a little confused. The only reason it says the warning beep is activated,are the high temp and low oil pressure (engine). It states after 5 minutes of low oil pressure the alarm sounds and the light will illuminate. I looked at the parts diagram on-line and it shows serial #KNG 940 and above have a scavenging pump pressure switch. KNG 939 and below do dot have one.So do I have a later system with an earlier wiring harness? If this is the case somebody will be getting an irate phone call. The wiring diagram leaves a lot to be desired. The OWNERS manual diagram shows an IPTO scavenging pump,but the SERVICE manual does not show this. Why would the $150 service manual leave out this important circuit? I guess this is the right one since the pump in the speed section of the transmission runs off of the PTO shaft? Anyways the wiring diagram in the OWNERS manual does not differentiate between the break in serial numbers. Tomorrow I will test the engine oil pressure switch to see if it will stop the beep,although my trusty service manual does not give ant testing procedures. The saga continues.....

 

[JerryK]

A lot of those ON/OFF sensors are disk type, and they go bad over time.. Could just throw in a new one and see. Would be a GREAT day if that was all it was..!!!

 

[rustyjeep]

Hey SPYDER, can I ask a huge favor? Since you have your floor mat removed there should be a round hole in it. The next time you are on your tractor could you see what color wire is on that switch? I'm trying to locate wich position in the main wiring harness plug it should be in, but I need to know what color I'm looking for. I would be eternally grateful.:confused2:

 

[SPYDERLK]

I will check today. I have the chain I carry on the floorboard wrapped thru the two adjacent holes to anchor it or it would be totally simple. I think I dont have the switch based on your S/N spit data. Mine is a KNG-607. ... Well see.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

Hi. Sorry, I did a lotta lookin and got a reasonable amount of seein. I saw no wires atop the transmission housing under the floorboard. There was one thing that conceivable could have been a big-ish sending unit. I finally decided it looked more like a hyd sump breather cap like sits on the top of each axle housing. I looked at the trans filter assembly too. Sorry I cant help. If you get far enuf to find yours pls post a picture. Thanks.
larry

 

[rustyjeep]

Thanks for your time trying to help me.I'll try to put up some pics tomorrow.

 

[rustyjeep]

here are a few pics of the switch I'm talking about

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Rustyjeep,
I did a little investigation this morning and I don't know if this helps you at all but the part# for your switch is 006003172B1 and the wiring harness for it is 007700492D91 and the harness lists for $ 73.54. I don't know if this helps, but hopefully it may. Good luck with it.

 

[SPYDERLK]

here are a few pics of the switch I'm talking about

Wow. I cant find anything that even looks like that area in the 1st pic. Isnt that up at the very top of the trans housing near the brake linkage rods. Mine has an obvious filter cobbed on beside the housing near there, but NO plumbing entering at the top of the housing. The two lines to the filter go from near the bottom of trans housing then up to the filter head that is bracketed to the side of the housing. No switch in evidence at any point in the lines or connections. :confused2: ... Would it be possible for you to post that 1st pic with a broader perspective?
Thanks,
larry

 

[rustyjeep]

Here are a few more from a different perspective.

Galen, thanks for your time in looking for that. The reason I pulled the wiring harness out was because I could not find the wire that goes to the scavenging pump pressure switch. I hoped that it was still wrapped up inside of the harness, but it simply isn't there. So I wonder if I buy a new platform harness would that wire be there? I also wonder where the wires of the pump controller are going to now,and what is it controlling?

I still haven't figured out why the beeper is still sounding. I tested the engine oil pressure switch and the oil pressure with a manual gauge,it read 52 psi at an idle. Also with the engine running I pulled the wire off of the engine oil pressure switch and did not see any lights come on?? Shouldn't there be something warning me if my oil pressure goes to zero? The only light I get is the healthy light.

 

[JimRB]

an oil pressure switch normal goes to ground with no/low pressure. OK, some switch are normal closed and some are normally open. Try grounding the wire that is the oil pressure wire and the light if it is not burned out may turn on.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Here are a few more from a different perspective.

Galen, thanks for your time in looking for that. The reason I pulled the wiring harness out was because I could not find the wire that goes to the scavenging pump pressure switch. I hoped that it was still wrapped up inside of the harness, but it simply isn't there. So I wonder if I buy a new platform harness would that wire be there? I also wonder where the wires of the pump controller are going to now,and what is it controlling?

I still haven't figured out why the beeper is still sounding. I tested the engine oil pressure switch and the oil pressure with a manual gauge,it read 52 psi at an idle. Also with the engine running I pulled the wire off of the engine oil pressure switch and did not see any lights come on?? Shouldn't there be something warning me if my oil pressure goes to zero? The only light I get is the healthy light.

Total loss on the pictures. I think something was changed drastically between our models. .... Do you know about the beeper silence/reset terminals up at the fuse box. You take the spare fuse and plug it in to an "empty" position and the beeper resets. My beeper comes on at major hr maintenance milestones. [Could be whats happening with yours.] Iv reset mine twice. The third time I ignored it and it either reset by itself or burned up the beeper after a few hrs. :confused3:
larry

 

[rustyjeep]

Jim, you are correct sir. I grounded the wire and the low pressure lights came on. Also, the warning tone sounded and it was a solid tone, not a beep ,beep,beep. So I guess there is a difference in the two, so back to square one.

Larry, when it originally started during the summer that's what I thought it was. I tried to reset it but it would not turn off. I lived with it beeping for a while but I got tired of it so I unplugged the stupid thing.Fast forward to now, I plugged it back up and it still beeps after 5 minutes of run time. Thanks for everyone's thought and input ,keep it coming.

 

[Yoteroller]

Hey Dave I had the same issue with my 7060 -- replaced the sending unit and cured it. It's back behind the battery box on the transmission(?) anyway crawl ubder there and look up you'll see the wire going to it. Worth the 5 minutes and you won't have to dismantle your tractor if you're lucky.