Washer fluid for rear tire ballast question

[George2615]

I probably should have asked this first but my question is why do I need to load my rear tires. I appreciate all your responses. I've owned and / or used several different tractors over the past 40 years and none had loaded tires and It worked out OK. Fields were plowed, mowed, rototilled, cultivated, raked, back and box bladed all without ballast.

For what reasons do you guys and gals require ballast in your tires?

I don't plan on doing any land tilling or plowing anymore. Mainly just general use on the properties through the summer. Attachments I'll be using include a box blade, rake, back blade, rotary cutter, post hole augur (haven't decided on a 3 pt or front hydraulic augur yet) and forks at this point. In winter I'll be using the loader bucket and a 7'6" snow pusher blade for plowing. When plowing in winter using the loader bucket, pusher blade, or forks I use a rear 3 pt. ballast of about 900 Lbs. So far this has sufficed.

 

[Lunk]

I probably should have asked this first but my question is why do I need to load my rear tires. I appreciate all your responses. I've owned and / or used several different tractors over the past 40 years and none had loaded tires and It worked out OK. Fields were plowed, mowed, rototilled, cultivated, raked, back and box bladed all without ballast.

For what reasons do you guys and gals require ballast in your tires?

I don't plan on doing any land tilling or plowing anymore. Mainly just general use on the properties through the summer. Attachments I'll be using include a box blade, rake, back blade, rotary cutter, post hole augur (haven't decided on a 3 pt or front hydraulic augur yet) and forks at this point. In winter I'll be using the loader bucket and a 7'6" snow pusher blade for plowing. When plowing in winter using the loader bucket, pusher blade, or forks I use a rear 3 pt. ballast of about 900 Lbs. So far this has sufficed.

If all you use the loader for is snow removal, and the 900# ballast has proven sufficient, then maybe filled rears aren't for you. 40 years with no issues is tough to argue against.

I don't have any real experience with my new tractor as I've been busy, and the weather has not been cooperative. On my 35 hp Branson, which was very heavy for its size (3800# without loader), I found that using the loader with only my 600# box-blade on the back could get iffy when loads were heavy, even on relatively flat ground. If you have any hills, or side hills to navigate, the extra stability that filled tires afford will be greatly appreciated.

Nothing induces "pucker" quite like going over a small bump with a full bucket and lifting a rear tire, especially on a side hill. I once had both rears lift while traveling downhill in 2WD. Thankfully it was a small hill with room to slow/stop at the bottom. Had to sit and think for a few minutes after that one.

I promptly bought 84 gallons of -20 WWF and the fill-tool to get it in the tires. I will not run without tire ballast again. It doesn't matter if it cost 20 bucks or 300.

On my current ride I negotiated the deal, and after agreement on price, the dealer informed me that he doesn't sell them without Rim Guard, and that it was included in the price. He even asked if I wanted the fronts filled for free. I said "sure!"

Everyone's situation is different.

My .02

Lunk

 

[k0ua]

I probably should have asked this first but my question is why do I need to load my rear tires. I appreciate all your responses. I've owned and / or used several different tractors over the past 40 years and none had loaded tires and It worked out OK. Fields were plowed, mowed, rototilled, cultivated, raked, back and box bladed all without ballast.

For what reasons do you guys and gals require ballast in your tires?

I don't plan on doing any land tilling or plowing anymore. Mainly just general use on the properties through the summer. Attachments I'll be using include a box blade, rake, back blade, rotary cutter, post hole augur (haven't decided on a 3 pt or front hydraulic augur yet) and forks at this point. In winter I'll be using the loader bucket and a 7'6" snow pusher blade for plowing. When plowing in winter using the loader bucket, pusher blade, or forks I use a rear 3 pt. ballast of about 900 Lbs. So far this has sufficed.

George, not everyone needs to load the rear tires, If your tractor is performing like you want it to, then don't. I have loaded tires because my ballast is not always on. In the winter, I will have a rear blade on, that weight nothing when it is down on the road. I need the extra traction to pull the blade. Same with your boxblade, when you are pulling a load of materiel, can you tractor pull it just fine? If so, you are good to go. I have severe hills and I need some extra weight down low, and the loaded tires provide that.

 

[ovrszd]

It's a big difference to me. $10 bucks to make my own 70 gallons or $145.00 minimum for the ready made stuff.

Either way, I would be the one installing the fluid into the tires. No matter what I use, I have to pour 35 gallons into a barrel then pump it in each tire. I'm really leaning toward the concentrate. For about $64.00 I can buy the concentrate, marine pump, hoses, and quick fill fill attachment. I just wondered if anyone else had done it this way. Maybe it's the cheap in me that thinks this way.

Oh I totally understand. I didn't word that very well. What I meant was the gain is so significant in the tractor's abilities that it's worth it at the higher cost.

I filled my own using a pump on a drill. I didn't have any sort of fill attachment, just rigged up a hose that would fit snugly over the valve stem. That method sucked. Had to stop putting in fluid and let out air several times. Because I was doing it with little to no air pressure in the tire, had to have it jacked up so the tire was just barely sitting on the floor. Also had to watch closely as I let out air, the tire wanted to unseat on the rim!!!!

But it was worth it.

 

[ovrszd]

I agree with everyone on the need for loaded rears. Totally depends on use. I use my FEL a LOT. I loaded my rears and added 150lb weights to each tire.

Another issue, if this is your first CUT, they aren't balanced like the old 2wd AG tractors we grew up with and used. They carried most of their weight on the rears. A CUT, with FEL installed, is usually a little heavier on the front than the rear.

My Utility tractor, with loaded rears and weights, FEL installed, is now only 300lb heavier on the rear than the front.

 

[George2615]

I agree with everyone on the need for loaded rears. Totally depends on use. I use my FEL a LOT. I loaded my rears and added 150lb weights to each tire.

Another issue, if this is your first CUT, they aren't balanced like the old 2wd AG tractors we grew up with and used. They carried most of their weight on the rears. A CUT, with FEL installed, is usually a little heavier on the front than the rear.

My Utility tractor, with loaded rears and weights, FEL installed, is now only 300lb heavier on the rear than the front.

No it's not my first CUT but is the second. All other tractors I owned or used were full size 60-100HP. I downsized about 15 years ago to my first CUT. My previous CUT had a loader capacity of about 1300 Lb. It did fine with the 900 Lb. 3 pt. ballast. The LS I now own can lift 2250 Lb. I haven't tried to max it out yet but once I do I'll see if the 900 Lb. ballast is enough. If it starts getting light in the rear then I'll ballast the tires.

Thanks again for all the response. I'll just go by trial and error for a while.

 

[prs]

My CUT was bouncy and way less slope worthy before liquid ballasting the tires front and rear. I used auto antifreeze concentrate that a friend secured for me from a salvage/fires sale and blended with water at 50:50. I am unsure or cost, but methyl alcohol is available in near pure form at hardware stores in gallon cans for use as the vehicle in shellac.

prs

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

I did a fill of my 33" tubeless turf tires myself... Each at 22 gallons...
For my max winter temps, I used a mix of 5 gallon antifreeze, and 17 gallon -20* washer fluid...

I watched for fluids as they came on sale... I used a small 12 volt bilge type pump, valve stem adapter, and a pair of recycled clothes washer hoses.....
The first one took about 2 hours, the second about 1 hour...

I'm aware several other liquids are available for this purpose...
This combination of chemicals was the best available, most cost effective, and self install friendly option for my needs..
Bottom line.... Loading these tires has been a big benefit to the uses I have for my tractor...

Your needs, and other variables may be different..

Good luck...