Washing the engine

   / Washing the engine #11  
I wash all my engines periodically. The only problem I've ever had with it is on my sorry Ford Ranger. Their spark plug wells won't drain the water, and the spark plugs are bimetallic. A couple of them broke off during the first spark plug replacement, and the threads had to be removed with an easy out. No problems ever on VW Cabrio, Benz 240D, Toyota Tacoma, Dodge Rampage, Fiat 124, Alfa Duetto. Used to have to remove the distributor cap and dry it out on my Triumph Spitfire. Didn't have this trouble on the Triumph TR3B.

You really only need to avoid getting water pressure around the brake or clutch master cylinder fill points or into the air intakes. Water won't short electrics out. Dirt left there and allowed to get wet will. Shorts batteries out, too, the same way; gotta have dirt and water. Get it clean with the water and leave it wet; no problem.

Ralph
 
   / Washing the engine #12  
I'm using Simple Green as well. Just this evening had the Pastor's lawn mower to look at (drive mechanism hanging up) but first had to get it clean. Used a paint brush and SG to scrub it down, then just hosed it off. Took grease, oil, and dried dust and old grass juice off real slick.
I've been using SG to clean up my chain saws too, and other engines.
So, just another positive vote for Simple Green from here. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Before Simple Green, I was sold on the Zoom product from Amway. It cleaned well, but they have now dropped that product, along with some other good ones. Guess the good stuff that works isn't allowed on the market. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Washing the engine #13  
In the aviation world, folks have moved away from Simple Green because it has the potential to corrode Aluminum.

I use a product called "Blast" from Blue Coral I believe. It does an excellent job - spray on rinse off.

Joined the "pack" today.
 
   / Washing the engine #14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( remove the distributor cap and dry it out on my Triumph Spitfire )</font>

Only one time I've had one fail to start after washing the engine and that was the first time I washed the engine on my '70 Olds 88 at a car wash. Do you remember the distributors with the little slide door on the side that you opened to adjust the dwell with the engine running? I found that little door was open and I got water in the distributor. I don't know why it was open but after that I remembered to check it each time before washing the engine. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / Washing the engine #15  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( a product called "Blast" from Blue Coral )</font>

I guess I'll have to check on that. I use the Blue Coral car wash liquid for the exterior wash already.
 
   / Washing the engine #16  
I've been washing my car engines at car washes since the mid sixties. Never had any problems.

I now have a pressure washer and do it at home using ordinary dish soap in the dispenser. Finish off by rinsing all with clean water.

Egon
 
   / Washing the engine #17  
I use Simple Green, Purple Power, Orange citrus-based stuff. All work well. Before all this stuff came out back in the dark ages before I was 30, I just used Tide. Wet everything down and sprinkle Tide over all the dirt and grease and grime. Let sit a spell while having a beer. Go back and spray off. Before they invented those pressure washers, too. Would NEVER use them on an engine. Seals aren't designed for that kind of pressure.

Now, they have liquid Tide. Squirt it over presoaked stuff, and it'll probably work even better.

Ralph
 
   / Washing the engine #18  
I use a 50/50 mix of Westleys Whitewall cleaner and kerosene. Cleans well and leaves belts and hoses looking like new.
Learned this in the body shop years ago from a man who bought used cars and then detailed them and re-sold them to used car dealers.

Bruce
 
   / Washing the engine #19  
I have had problems with that dwell adjustment window on GM cars as well. They didn't like water at all. But in these days of electronic ignitions I have never had a problem washing an engine. I live on a gravel road so it is mostly just dust under the hood. I use "Gunk" or similar products only once a year or so, in between engine washings only require plain water hose to knock the dust off. I like to have a clean engine compartment, don't feel the vehicle is washed completely until the engine compartment is hosed out.

John
 
   / Washing the engine #20  
I too have been washing my engines since the 1960's with no other problems than others have already stated here. I used to use various cleaning agents but in later years just a good strong pressure washer works just fine. I can't bring myself to hit the altenator with the water, but if you stop & think about going down the interstate at 70 mph in a blinding rain storm - the water coming thru the radiator is blasting the whole front of the engine anyway - the components are designed for this. I avoid direct high pressure spray into electrical connectors too, but I also use dielectric grease on all my connectors and don't want to blow it all out. Just a little common sense when cleaning and there shouldn't be any problems.
 

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