Water heater direct-vent vibrations

   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations
  • Thread Starter
#11  
The Fernco will take more heat than the ABS black plastic vent pipe. So, yes.

I went to verify, and found this for plastic pipes (180?コF) and this for Fernco standard couplings (140?コF). Did find the Fernco proflex coupling which does have 180?コF but it has a stainless band around the neoprene, so more vibration would get through (though still better than the solid ABS).

I also found in their FAQ, "Our couplings are rated up to 140 degrees, but sporadically". That sporadic event is probably dumping a sink full of hot water down a pipe.

There are silicone hoses for turbo setups which are rated well over 350?コF (link, link).

I think I'll measure the exhaust temp next time it kicks on (ie, next time I notice it kick on).

ugh sorry I can't get the degree symbol to come out right here
 
   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations #12  
there is some differences in rubber fittings.

--there are cheap rubber fittings. and the pipes just slide into the fittings,
--then there are rubber fittings that actually have a more of "female fitting" like a sch 40 PVC fitting would have. were the pipe will only go so far into the fitting. (stops pipes from fully sliding through the fitting)
--then there is also rubber fittings that have like a "metal jacket" around them. (adds structural support to rubber fitting, to help prevent it from collapsing and/or cracking under weight, also helps from the "balloon" effect that might happen)

with above said. look for "no-hub" fittings. more likely get what you want closer than just searching for "rubber fittings".
if you get a combo of metal jacket, ends of rubber fitting only allow pipe to slide so far in, and has 2 and more likely 4 pipe clamps on it. you will end up getting something more likely to support some weight, keep pipes in place. and still allow some reduction in vibrations.

=============
with above said....
if you can get into the walls, ceiling, Attic, roof. and follow the actual vent pipe all the way out. see if the vent pipe is rubbing on anything. good chance when pipe was put in. that hole was not cut big enough, or pipe is leaning up against a 2x4 or like.

also check for any sort of support clamps. goto a couple local hardware stores (menards, lowes, homdepot) at least 2 of them and look at the supports they offer for pipes. (i say 2 due to 1 will have some, and the other will have the rest most likely)

there are some with springs. (attach one part to house, then a spring, and then a clamp around pipe), and then there are some more rubbish stylish clamps, along with metal pipe hangers. you may also find in the insulation isle for pipes. a roll of "wrap on rubber insulation" that you might try wrapping once or twice around pipe. before clamping a larger metal pipe hanger around pipe.

the roll of rubbish pipe insulation, might help reduce vibrations. if pipe is covered in it all the way up. but am guessing you have multiple issues with overall installations. and will need to find out were pipe is rubbing some place on the frame work of home, and re check screws that hold vent on top of water heater. and perhaps add some additional support hangers. or cut and redo some fittings. and still possibly add a rubber fitting in.

===============
just adding a rubber fitting in. most likely will only be a band-aid. and may not resolve issue, find the root cause.

example what happens if you can place your hand on pipe when water hater and vent kick on? does it help reduce vibration? if you slightly push/pull pipe in different directions. does noise go away?

is vibration more of an "echo" effect. errr renascence effect. (eerrr i can not remember correct word), the vent pipe acting like a trumpet, flute, etc.... and causing additional sound to be created.
 
   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Where the exhaust goes into the ceiling (in this small utility space; and the ceiling here is between two floors of a house) is sheetrocked, and then goes into another room's ceiling.

The vibration isn't strong and the pipe is very solid; there's virtually no motion in the pipe which seems to be quite attached. I can dampen it slightly by holding on to it, but it's like trying to dampen the vibrations of a motorcycle with bar-end weights - it only does so much.

While it's possible that having originally installed dampened connections wherever the exhaust is attached in the ceiling above would be the right thing, it's a huge amount of work vs the quite likely fix of a sawzall + rubber connector. Is it still a bandaid fix if it completely solves a problem with almost no outlay?
 
   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations #14  
Google "hump coupling" for silicone fittings. I've read about them being used for exactly what you are trying to accomplish, and they are silicone so they are rated to 500*.
 
   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Google "hump coupling" for silicone fittings. I've read about them being used for exactly what you are trying to accomplish, and they are silicone so they are rated to 500*.

Looks perfect, thanks.
 
   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations #16  
ning,

You can probably find silicone tubing that will be rated higher than the Fernco. But if the plastic pipe you have hasn't distorted over the years, the Fernco will be fine. No need for "stops" in the tubing, like a "no Hub" has with the pipes securely mounted.

The nice thing about a Fernco is that it takes out the vibration and it takes out the strain by allowing some mis-alignment. The internal stops of a no-hub inhibit the installation where the top of the boiler and the pipes are fixed and they are thinner where they are clamped.

You can cram a Fernco in there and slip it over one side and then bring it down on the other cut end with no problem.

I can recommend these because I've been using them for many years on boiler vent installations for just the reason you stated and to allow some misalignment or for future disassembly. Never a failure. Often the boiler runs at 186 degrees with its exhaust near that temp. Try one.

Those hump couplings look good to, but they are about six times the cost.
 
   / Water heater direct-vent vibrations #17  
Since they deemed it OK to use plastic vent pipe the heat is not critical so you could use just about any flexible section and not go the hi temp costly route.
Heck cut out 2-3" of pipe and wrap 2-3 layers of shower stall liner and clamp tightly.
The burn off of propane is mainly water vapor.

Most heating supply outlets would have a fabric that they use to isolate plenums from the actual furnace just for the purpose to isolate noise and vibrations.
That would be a rubberized fabric that is sold 'by the yard' so to speak. (very similar to shower liner in appearance and feel)
 

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