Water Heater Frustration
- Thread starter EddieWalker
- Start date
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Eddie-- sorry, I generally can only "play" on TBN early in the AM....Fortuantely, others picked up where I left off.
As my daughter (and my students) would say, BTDT! (Been there, done that!) So mant times, in fact, that's the first thing I check when working on a 220 circuit. Studor & Tallyho gave good descriptions of how that's supposed to work. Glad you got it all set now.
A couple of years ago, in the middle of the coldest stretch of winter, half of my main (200-Amp) breaker quit working-- THAT took a bit of time to track down; hadn't ever seen that happen before. Of course it was an old panel, and the manufactururer had been bought & sold so many times that --of course-- the breaker was no longer made. I was looking at having to replace the entire panel until someone suggested good ol' e-bay. Found an exact replacement in NJ, still in its dusty old box. Paid way too much for it, but it was still a lot cheaper than a new panel (with all new breakers, etc...) so I was happy to pay it. It was nice to have heat, hot water, water pump, and all that stuff back; gave the wood stove a good workout for over a week!
As my daughter (and my students) would say, BTDT! (Been there, done that!) So mant times, in fact, that's the first thing I check when working on a 220 circuit. Studor & Tallyho gave good descriptions of how that's supposed to work. Glad you got it all set now.
A couple of years ago, in the middle of the coldest stretch of winter, half of my main (200-Amp) breaker quit working-- THAT took a bit of time to track down; hadn't ever seen that happen before. Of course it was an old panel, and the manufactururer had been bought & sold so many times that --of course-- the breaker was no longer made. I was looking at having to replace the entire panel until someone suggested good ol' e-bay. Found an exact replacement in NJ, still in its dusty old box. Paid way too much for it, but it was still a lot cheaper than a new panel (with all new breakers, etc...) so I was happy to pay it. It was nice to have heat, hot water, water pump, and all that stuff back; gave the wood stove a good workout for over a week!
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I put in a Rheem Marathon electric water heater, supposed to be the most energy efficient one on the marked at the time. In general the local supply house is a lot less expensive than box stores, but in this case, I found it online and had it shipped for a lot less than the supply house. Box stores don't carry the good stuff, generally the cheaper stuff.
Circuit breakers do go bad, so always need to check voltage. I've bought brand new ones that were bad. As with everything else, there are also counterfeit circuit breakers sold, I remember reading about counterfeit SQD breakers a few yrs ago. Matter of fact I just googled it, thousands of counterfeit ones were recalled.
Circuit breakers do go bad, so always need to check voltage. I've bought brand new ones that were bad. As with everything else, there are also counterfeit circuit breakers sold, I remember reading about counterfeit SQD breakers a few yrs ago. Matter of fact I just googled it, thousands of counterfeit ones were recalled.
Ronbo
Silver Member
I too have been playing the water heater woes. I am trying to get rid of the odor. Soo bad, you can not stay in the apt when using hot water.
You need the KA anode. that is aluminum and zinc. You may be able to find it a a plumbing supply, but not the big box stores. they do not even know about them. On line is the easiest. Run about $50.00
When you purchase a new wh, remove the anode and the extra plug on top and reinstall with teflon tape. This will facilitate removal in 1-4 years. Do not be afraid to use a cheater bar (pipe) on your ratchet. My impact would nt break it loose. It will have grey goo on the threads. I just clean that off the threads and put on teflon tape. I do not worry about the goo on the tank threads.
Once a year, turn off the water, drain it down about 4 inches, unscrew the anode and raise it enough to look at it and reinstall it if it is good with new teflon tape.
Now to the anode. There are many opinions on the benefit of changing the anode rod. Most of the experts say that if you are foing to get the smell, the anode will not make a difference. They do agree that what you need to do is turn off the water. Drain down the water about 4 inches (same as when you check the anode). Remove a fitting (maybe the spare plug on top that you reinstalled with teflon tape). Pour in 2 pints of hydrogen peroxide. This acts as a disinfectant ans is better than bleach. Reinstall the plug and turn on the water. Turn on the faucets one at a time until they spit, then turn them off. The H2O2 will be in the lines and the tank by then. Let it sit 30 minutes and then run some water. Use as normal. This will eliminate the odor for a while (nonspecfic time period).
The two things that pake the problem worse are 1. periods of nonuse. Examples are going on vacation and not turning off the wh. It has to have heat to produce the gas. Turn off the breaker if it not going to be used. 2. Period of insufficent use. Example is having a 120 gal water heater and only 2 people using water and trying to conserve.
The water has to be replaced in the wh frequently so the gas cannot be produced. If you are a small family, go with a smaller wh so the water does not sit in the tank and turn off power if the wh is not going to be used for 24 hrs or more.
Ron
You need the KA anode. that is aluminum and zinc. You may be able to find it a a plumbing supply, but not the big box stores. they do not even know about them. On line is the easiest. Run about $50.00
When you purchase a new wh, remove the anode and the extra plug on top and reinstall with teflon tape. This will facilitate removal in 1-4 years. Do not be afraid to use a cheater bar (pipe) on your ratchet. My impact would nt break it loose. It will have grey goo on the threads. I just clean that off the threads and put on teflon tape. I do not worry about the goo on the tank threads.
Once a year, turn off the water, drain it down about 4 inches, unscrew the anode and raise it enough to look at it and reinstall it if it is good with new teflon tape.
Now to the anode. There are many opinions on the benefit of changing the anode rod. Most of the experts say that if you are foing to get the smell, the anode will not make a difference. They do agree that what you need to do is turn off the water. Drain down the water about 4 inches (same as when you check the anode). Remove a fitting (maybe the spare plug on top that you reinstalled with teflon tape). Pour in 2 pints of hydrogen peroxide. This acts as a disinfectant ans is better than bleach. Reinstall the plug and turn on the water. Turn on the faucets one at a time until they spit, then turn them off. The H2O2 will be in the lines and the tank by then. Let it sit 30 minutes and then run some water. Use as normal. This will eliminate the odor for a while (nonspecfic time period).
The two things that pake the problem worse are 1. periods of nonuse. Examples are going on vacation and not turning off the wh. It has to have heat to produce the gas. Turn off the breaker if it not going to be used. 2. Period of insufficent use. Example is having a 120 gal water heater and only 2 people using water and trying to conserve.
The water has to be replaced in the wh frequently so the gas cannot be produced. If you are a small family, go with a smaller wh so the water does not sit in the tank and turn off power if the wh is not going to be used for 24 hrs or more.
Ron
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Eddie, sorry you had to go all the way around the bypass to get across the street so to speak. I learned something from this post.
I know what it is like to be without hot water for even a night.
I know what it is like to be without hot water for even a night.
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thanks, I'm hoping this was one of those lessons that stays with me. It would be really embarrassing to have to go through this again!!!
Eddie
Eddie
Marlowe
Gold Member
This may be a good place to say that a test meter will give only an indication of performance. Only the actual load on the circuit will thoroughly test it. This is true for more than just water heaters. I've told many techs, "Use the meter, but don't rely on it."
