water heater question

[WTA]

We currently have two BIG water heaters in our house. One of them is leaking and we have a remodeling project going on in the other bathroom. The room right next to the bathroom we are working on is the laundry room and we are moving that to another room in the back of the house. The laundry room wall is coming out to open up more room for a big walk in shower and new vanity for the wife.
I am wanting to take the water heater out of that laundry room also and move it to where the leaking one is.

It will be 75 feet away from the farthest point where we need hot water then and I had planned a 1 inch copper pipe under the house that is insulated to hopefully keep the heat in. Do any of you think this is too far away from the master bath? I took Navy showers for way too long and don't like the idea of cold showers much any more.
We're going to need 1 inch pipe I figured for the new shower as it's going to be a water hogging big fancy one about 10X10 feet with multiple heads in it in the ceiling and in the walls. I'll probably end up having to turn the well on manual control to make it work but I don't care.

I'm working on radiant in floor heat for it too. I haven't decided if I'm going to use the hot water main or do a split system with antifreeze in it and a heat exchanger. I think if I use hot water straight off the water heater with a simple thermostat controlled recirc system then it will solve any problems waiting on the hot water. At least in the winter.

 

[js5020]

I have a bathroom that is 65 feet from the water heater,full basement. I ran a 3/4 "trunk" line and then a 3/8 branch to the fixtures,, my thought at the time I wanted to be able to have everthing full on and have no problems supplying hot water to each of them,,, well I can run them all full on no problems there,,, but the hot part is a different story. The water in the trunk gets cold even though it's insulated and because it is a big line it takes several minutes to clear the cold out,,, but once it clears things are good. I have thought about putting in an on demand heater for that bath to resolve the issue.

 

[kennyd]

I think you may have a problem supplying that much water to the shower from your well. Those big multiple shower head setups usually require a lot of pressure and flow. Better do some research before you start spending money on that...

As for the distance, I would suggest plumbing in a return line on the hot water side and installing a circulator pump at the water heater-you will then have instant hot water. The pump can put on a programmable timer so it's not running all the time.

 

[kenmac]

You won't get any more water from a shower head that the head is designed to flow. With 1 ' pipe you won't get anymore pressure just little more volume. 3/4 pipe should be just fine. You may have to wait a few min. for the hot water to reach your bathroom that far away. Insulating the pipe will help. If it turns out to be a big problem, you could add a circulation punp for that room that will keep the water hot to the fixtures in that room

 

[Diesel-ME]

Perhaps a booster pump may be needed to supply the pressure for the fancy showers..???.. Of course as noted earlier you would need sufficient capacity from the well too.

 

[ByronBob]

I only have 10 feet of line from the heater to the shower and we have to wait a minute also. I think your going to have to wait a bit before entering the shower to let it heat up.

If money isn't an issue then get the instant heat units or put a small 10 gallon electric unit outside the shower area. I see more houses going to these little guys under the sink and such.

 

[WTA]

Our well is a 5 horse three phase sub pump meant for irrigation. I've got 2 inch line coming off it to the tank and to 10 acres worth of risers. There is a 1 1/2 in line coming into the house from the tank. It can handle the pressure and volume. I just might have to turn it on if we turn on all the nozzles. I have fixed those low flows before too. I hate them things! I swear these new ones are worse than those hand held button operated things on ships.

We're also in the process of adding in a gray water holding tank with a pump for irrigating the yard and trees. I won't be wasting water at all.

 

[Kays Supply]

I have been installing the type showers you describe. It is strange, the " Greener" the news gets ,the the more wasteful the public seems to get. I have found on city water, and water saver faucets, you are better off to install a separate mixing valve for each different outlet. One for the over head, one for the body sprays ( check flow rates, you may only be able to use two at a time per mixing valve) and one for anything else you plan to use at the same time. The single valve , diverter system has let me down several times. The heads can be bored out for flow but the mixing valve is still Government mandated to 2.5 gal. Your multiple uses will go over that. If you go with one mixing valve 3/4" supply is more than enough. I also second the motion for a recirc pump to maintain hot water to your bath.

 

[Sigarms]

The one question that needs to be answered before any "planning" can be done is what is the maximum flow rate in the house?

You can expect to spend some big bucks if you want to keep hot water going on a non stop basis.

 

[Lasgambler]

you are better off to install a separate mixing valve for each different outlet. One for the over head, one for the body sprays ( check flow rates, you may only be able to use two at a time per mixing valve) and one for anything else you plan to use at the same time. The single valve , diverter system has let me down several times. I also second the motion for a recirc pump to maintain hot water to your bath.

Good Advice from Kays Supply. I too, Have installed the overhead Rain, with Bodyspray and a conventional Showerhead. I put in three separate mixing valves. The owners are HAPPY.