Water in hydraulics

   / Water in hydraulics #1  

Dalbery

New member
Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
Sand Springs, OK
Tractor
FT 300 DTC
Hello,
I have a new to me 1710 that had a ton of water in the hydraulics. I've changed the fluid but it's still milky. What's the best thing to run in my hydraulics to get rid of the moisture before I change the fluid and filter? I've heard diesel and Trans tune. What's the best and/or easiest.
Thanks in advance,
Darrell
 
   / Water in hydraulics #2  
Even after two or three hyd changes, you will still have some emulsified fluid in the hyd system. If it was at the dealer, they could use an external filter cart. It is usually to expensive for the home owner to own one.
 
   / Water in hydraulics #3  
Darrell,

make sure it's water you are dealing with, don't fall into the "Foamy Oil" trap.....sometimes foamy oil from oil entrainment (suction leak from bad suction hose or bad pump shaft seal)looks like water....just make sure its water before you keep changing oil & filter......

wdchyd:)
 
   / Water in hydraulics #6  
It will take a while to get all the water our of your system, but just make sure you hydraulic tank cap/ breather is not allowing water in.

Does this tractor model have a hydraulic oil cooler? If so, and you still getting water in your oil, this is probably the place where its coming from. Remove and have pressure tested.

Duff
 
   / Water in hydraulics #7  
I work with a guy that has a 1969 Massey Ferguson and he found he was missing some sort of rubber boot on the trans shifter allowing water in.....for him, problem solved!
 
   / Water in hydraulics #8  
water=snow=condense in air

A. Water gets in together with refill oil
B. Water get sucked in through breather cap/fill cap
C. Water get sucked in through a leaking suction hose
D. Condense water in air


A. Store your spare oil under roof. Whole barrels and 1/4 barrels stored outside, are sucking water in through cap, just by the pressure difference from temperature changes....put a piece of 2x4 under the barrel, so the cap is the high point....When refilling oil, use a clean funnel with strainer

B. When double action cylinders extends, level in tank lowers, and when cylinders retract, level raises (the volume of the piston rod). Accordingly air goes in and out of tank....make sure the breathing hole/cap is raised 1-2 inches above the top of the tank. Also keep top of tank as clean as possible. Bark and debris can hold moist and water, that easily can get into tank.

C. A leak on suction hose will usually not show as an external oil leak. But when pump "sucks" oil from tank, pressure in suction hose will become lower than the atmospheric air pressure, and the air pressure will push air any present water inside suction hose. Make sure no water can pour/drip down to suction hose from above. Operation in rain?? well you decide....

D. If system is running warm/hot and ambient temperature is low, condense water will stick on walls inside tank, and accumulate on bottom of tank....sooner or later it will be sucked up by pump and create "milk" or emulsion. Have a drain valve (I recommend a 1/2" ball valve) in a corner, opposite side of suction line, at the bottom of tank....Every once in a while, let splitter stay parked with this valve as a LOW point. Drain a 1-5oz sample collected into a glass jar, next day before starting up....let sample sit (leaning the jar) for a day and check if oil is milky or if there is any water on the bottom. This will also help you determine if "milk" is air or water......

For water emulsion also try this Visual Crackle Test
 
 
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