Water Service Line Connected to Well - Questions

[gary49]

A pitiless adapter is your friend. I would not install a well seal and cover the well head. You still need a screened air vent, so there will be something sticking up above grade. I hate having to dig up a well head in order to work on a pump.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Keep in mind this is south GA so freezing is rarely a concern.

Rarely ? All it takes is once.

 

[Xfaxman]

Keep in mind this is south GA so freezing is rarely a concern.

Rarely ? All it takes is once.

Use PEX it won't break after it thaws out.

 

[oldpilgrim]

what about valves and connectors to the tank ?

 

[Xfaxman]

what about valves and connectors to the tank ?

If his current system has survived, it won't be cold enough long enough and with the tank in a "well pump house" some heat is possible.

 

[Beltzington]

Rarely ? All it takes is once.

Not to worry OldPilgram, too many cold Massachusetts winters have but you on edge. I was raised in Colorado and spent 20 years in the Midwest so I am very familiar with heat lamps and frozen pipes. My plan is to cover the well head with a fake rock and maybe even use some heat tape for those especially cold GA nights. Everything else will be underground or in a semi-heated pump-house.

What is the hang-up with pitiless adapters? Your recommending I dig a hole to put the supply line below a none existent frost line?

Really, appreciate the comments, the ELL elbows was a great idea I had not thought of. Going to go with Sched 40 PVC, ELL elbows and going to leave the pump switch at the well but run some electrical conduit to pull some wire if I need to move it to the pressure tank.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Around here, that would be frozen and busted by mid October..... hence my concern for you.

Good luck with the project.

 

[farmer2009]

When I redid my pond system a few years ago. Everything I found said pressure switches should be as close to pressure tanks as possible. And if more than one pressure tank as close to center as possible. This helps prevent short cycling the pump. Especially if pump is on the upper end of range for pipe size.
Example. I have a 2" PVC line and a 2hp pump. I get full stream at about 5 psi. Have a friend with a 2" line and 5hp pump. He gets full flow at about 40 psi. He has about an extra 100 feet of head pressure also. He would be at a higher risk of short cycling his pump than I would be.

 

[TheGoose]

We didn't even get a freeze here in Tx (coastal region) last winter. A "freeze" here usually consists of a couple of 29-31 deg F nights for 2-3 days per year. About once every ten years we get a 25-28 deg freeze for 2-3 days. All our wells/pumps are outdoors, many out in the open. When we get a rare cold spell we just throw a tarp over them. The water comes out of the ground 67-72 deg F year round. As long as the well comes on once in a while it will keep itself warm.

Around here, that would be frozen and busted by mid October..... hence my concern for you.

Good luck with the project.

 

[TheGoose]

BTW: I'm a licensed Pump Installer/ Well Driller here in Tx. If you have any specific questions I'd be glad to answer them for you.

For your pipes go sch 40 PVC. It will last a long time. Use 20' sections with belled ends.

You can either leave the QD Control box at the well or re-locate it to your shed.

The pressure switch should be at the tank location. Leaving the pressure switch at the well location could cause it to jack on/off when the pump kicks on (reverberating pressure wave).

Use #12 wire with 3 conductors and a ground, either direct bury or put in PVC conduit. If you use conduit go with stranded wire in 1" conduit, much easier to pull.

Get rid of the big box store pressure switch and buy a "tank tee" that has all the fittings for the tank built in (1/4" hole for pressure switch, 3/4" holes for PRV and faucet). Use a Square D pressure switch, it can be mounted horizontally or vertically.

Do not mix brass with galv. steel.

And lastly, take a look at the top fittings coming out of the well. What is holding the pipe up at that elevation? Also, it looks to be a glued fitting at the top and sch 40 pipe in the well.I suggest replacing the drop pipe with sch 80 PVC with stainelss/brass collars and use a tee on the top of the well.