water to barn - 1" poly to 1/2" copper transition

[bigballer]

i am digging a trench this weekend to drop a water line along with a couple runs of conduit (for power). i'll install a frostfree faucet on the barn side which is the easy part. for the house side, I plan to drill a diagonal hole through the concrete in order to run the poly line from the trench into the garage where I have a water source. the source is copper which currently connects to a "farm clothes" washing machine. my thought was to bring them together here. how so I connect the black 1" HDPE to the copper? I seem to come up empty when searching the interwebs for this but i'm sure there is a way..

the water line a 150' length of the rolled kind.

cheers

 

[Cat_Driver]

Just use a barbed threaded fitting at the pipe end.

 

[pmsmechanic]

You should be able to slip the HDPE over a piece of 3/4" copper pipe. Two hose clamps and your good to go. That is if we are both talking about the same kind of plastic pipe.

 

[zzvyb6]

In my barn and house, we use conventional copper hose barbs (threaded male end) to make the transition. There are galvanized ones, too, but underground they corrode pretty fast.

If I may make some suggestions, use 1-1/2" inch hose instead of the 1" and place several street valves in the line for easy shutoff and future T connections as you expand your water needs.

The reason for the larger hose in not for higher water flow. At my place, a leak below the bard concrete floor and foundation occurred. Not covered by insurance, either. Rather than chop up the floor and foundation, I ran a 1" line inside the 1-1/2" hose from the street valve to the inside barn connections and saved a lot of money time and trouble. This is in the interest of future 'happening' prevention.

Just sayin' ...

 

[bigballer]

ok thanks for the feedback. I already have the poly line (150') of it leftover from another project so probably wont go any bigger but I do like the idea of the backup plan though. i'll look for the barbed fittings, I used these in the well run but only for joining poly to poly. At the end of the run I do plan to TEE the end of it so I can add an extension run later if I need.

 

[PILOON]

You can get 1" barb to 1" pipe and then reduce the 1" using a !' to 1/2" bushing.
My pump supplier has all that in both brass and plastic.
The 1" barb to pipe should be available in male and female (male + bushing would be best)
A tip: do it only in plastic or brass as if a single piece of steel is in the line it will soon rust to the point of choking off your water flow.

 

[kcflhrc]

I bet SharkBite makes a fitting to do this. Possibly this?

MNPT Reducing, Straight, and Bullnose Male Push-Fit Connectors

 

[bigballer]

i'm headed to the hardware store later to get supplies, will see what options (maybe sharkbite) and thanks for the tip on the brass/plastic fitting vs steel. good to know!

 

[Coyote machine]

Do NOT run conduit for electric in the same trench as water! Also separate high voltage conduit runs from coax, Cat 5e or other low voltage conduit runs by at least 1' of space between parallel runs. Best practice is to follow local codes for buried conduit; or your insurance may void any claims on lack of permits, inspection, etc. These things vary by area and local laws.:confused3:

 

[boggen]

go with a copper to thread connector, then a barb to threaded connector for the hpde pipe with some hose clamps. local menards, home depot, ace hardware, farm king, etc... should have these fittings. pretty much any rink dink hardware should have these fittings, no need for costly fittings. more so if you know how to work a torch and copper lines and there fittings.

the reason for threaded adapters, is to deal with the little bit of heat to put on the copper fitting (sweating it on with a torch),