Weaning NH 1630 Shibaura engine off of ether

[tlj87]

Background: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ng/406001-reviving-nh-1630-after-sitting.html

There is evidence that this NH 1630 that I'm reviving after sitting for an extended period has used ether as a starting aid by the previous owner. I am aware that use of ether is not advised in machines equipped with glow plugs. I have not dug in far enough yet to know if the glow plugs, timer module, and ignition switch are working properly. Assuming that I replace those items (about $225), can it be reasonably expected that the machine will start on its own (meaning without ether)? If not, what else should I be looking at?

 

[RickB]

A compression test will tell you whether your plan has a chance of success or not. Ether use can be harmful to pistons and rings. Damage is not a certainty, hence a test to determine the engine’s health.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Remember that ether is not a flammable (diesel), combustible (gasoline), but is an explosive material; neither is it a lubricant, but a solvent. Go figure potential damage from there. I knew a guy that used ether for his hard to start Briggs mower instead of fixing the problem. One day he blew the head right off it. He was lucky no parts hit him.

Ron

 

[tlj87]

I’ll get a compression test unit for a Diesel engine and test. I suppose I would test through the glow plug holes. At that time I could test the glow plugs. Anything else to test at this time to learn about health of the engine?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive kit to test thru gp's.. then they have the more expensive kit for both inj. AND gp's..
Anything over 300 psi will start a diesel engine.. but u really want to be way North of that.. anything lower & u have ether damage.

 

[tlj87]

Thanks, I'll take a look at HF's offerings, there is a store pretty close to my office. I phoned the NH dealer and learned the spec is 427 PSI +/- 50 psi for the NH 1630.
FYI, This is what it sounded like a few minutes after starting: New Holland 1630 - YouTube

 

[thepumpguysc]

EEEWWW.. that doesn't sound so good..
Is that the low idle rpm?? its awful hi..
Heres a diagn. trick> Raise the rpms until u start to hear the "hammering"..
THEN loosen the lines AT THE INJECTOR 1@a x.. & retighten until u find which cylinder it is.. it'll get quiet..
THEN swap the injector from THAT hammering cyl.. to the furthest hole away from the problem hole.. & restart..
IF the hammering went to another cylinder.?? its the injector that's bad..
That sure sounds like a cracked piston to me.??? BUT check it first..

 

[tlj87]

The engine isn’t at idle here, somewhere between idle and half way... maybe 1400 rpm?

I think the buzz/hum that seems more pronounced in the video than in reality is the cold hydraulics. It was about 30 deg f.

Do you still recommend starting with a compression test? If a piston is cracked, would it be in a cylinder with low compression?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes start w/ compr test.. that's about the only way to tell whatch'r workin with..
It doesn't cost anything to narrow down the "knocking" to a certain cyl..& just keep it in mind when ur doing the comp. test..

 

[tlj87]

I got back to the machine today. I cycled the glow plugs twice for 15 seconds each time. It started right up at 35 deg ambient air temp. I let it warm up, then shut off and removed the glow plugs, testing each — all ok. Compression test results as follows, from front of tractor to rear: 405, 420, 425. All within the dealer spec of 427 PSI +/- 50 psi. I’m guessing my issues earlier were related to fuel quality? Although I did not drain the tank, I did drain some fluid off, changed the filter (and cleaned the bowl), and bled the lines.

Cold idle video: NH 1630 cold idle - YouTube

Warm operation video: NH 1630 warm drive - YouTube