Weight Box

[BIG DOOLEY]

He still needs a box blade, weights, ballast.... whatever regardless.
Just for the FEL use.
Tom.

 

[LD1]

The only benefit to having a weight box in lieu of a heavy implement is maneuverability.

I have a barrel with 1000# on concrete in it for ballast when and if I need the maneuverability. Like working back in the woods in and around trees that I dont want all scarred up, or like when spreading gravel in the basement and garage of mom and dads house that is being built. There is a garage door on the basement that is 7'. Getting in and maneuvering around to spread the gravel is alot better with a weight box than with a 7' blade or 6' bushhog back there:thumbsup:

But for just doing a driveway, I'd get an implement.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

BX1860
I think his 3 point hitch is only 670 lbs. @ 24" beyond the pins? which would be about the dimension of say a ballast box.
Just over 400 lbs lift for the FEL.
I can see the point of why a box blade which weighs extends out and adds leverage would be a great combination with a FEL on a BX.
Tom

 

[LD1]

BX1860
I think his 3 point hitch is only 670 lbs. @ 24" beyond the pins? which would be about the dimension of say a ballast box.
Just over 400 lbs lift for the FEL.
I can see the point of why a box blade which weighs extends out and adds leverage would be a great combination with a FEL on a BX.
Tom

992# lift at the pins. Which is closer to where a box would be located.

24" aft would be for things like a bushhog or blade:thumbsup:

 

[mjw357]

The only benefit to having a weight box in lieu of a heavy implement is maneuverability.

I think you could build a weight box of some kind for under $20, cheaper than an implement that he may or may not have use for.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I built a weight box that I could mount on the rear or front. It was made as a steel cage of sorts, with 4 pieces of concrete formed to fit in the box. The steel was about 60- 80# if I remember right. Each concrete block weighed about 40-50#. That way I could still lift each component and got about 200 + # of weight. I could also add more weight on top and secure with bungees.

I posted my build at the time. It was cheap and a fun DIY project. Maybe I can find the thread and post a link.

Edit... Here's a link http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/162564-homemade-front-rear-ballast-box.html

 

[PHILIP8N]

I've never quite seen the light of buying a weight box that does nothing but add weight.

The advantage I have seen using a ballast box is it's compact size when working in tight quarters. That is when I mount my 1250# ballast box. If I am in the open, and need the box blade, then I mount my 1150# box blade. The ballast box is also easier to trailer. Philip.

 

[LD1]

I think you could build a weight box of some kind for under $20, cheaper than an implement that he may or may not have use for.

Yea, maybe, IF you already have steel and crap laying around and a welder and good way to cut the stuff.

You'd have $20 just in a set of pins and a few rattle cans of paint. Let alone having to buy steel to do it.

And since he is wanting to equip his tractor for snow duty, I am certain that he would make good use of a rear blade for a few hundred bucks off c-list.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I agree that a rear blade would be useful for snow removal and would add some ballast. He may want to get a blade and also figure a way to add more weight. Small tractor blades don't weigh much.

 

[Bluegill2]

Heavy box blade is one of the most useful implements I own. I've also added 200+lbs of weight to mine.