weight gain

[rockyridgefarm]

I added about 80 gallons to my tires, at about 8lbs a gallon - 640 lbs. Note that weight is directly on the ground, not out on the front or rear. For basic stability it is great, but heavy loader work requires rear ballast, and a rear blade probably isn't enough...

 

[JD2210MAN]

Rim Gaurd is just over 11 lbs per gallon. Water is under 9 pounds per gallon. I do not know what windshield washer fluid would be as it has the lighter alcohol in it...?

I added Ballast Star - Rim Gaurd to my father's little Craftsman riding mower because it has a Snow Blower on it. We only got 4.5 gallons in each tire but that 100 lbs (total) extra made it un-stoppable. Could not believe the difference! I can not wait to mow the steep hills on his lawn this summer.... I will not have to surf on the mower anymore. Added Stability out the Wazoo!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

My Deere 2210 is loaded also and would advise you add it.

 

[RickW]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For basic stability it is great, but heavy loader work requires rear ballast, and a rear blade probably isn't enough... )</font>

Mike & Anthony:
Thanks for the info - very helpful. Is there a rule of thumb for the amount of weight to add to the back end for loader work? Is a Box Scraper enough? Or if a Ballast Box is used, how much weight should be in it?

Thanks in advance for your response.

 

[beenthere]

Need enough ballast to counter the weight that the loader will lift. I don't mean that to sound smarty, but I have a ballast box and fluid in the tires, and still could use more weight on the rear to counter the load that my FEL can lift. I am looking to add height to the ballast box, so I can add more weight.

Today I looked at lead wheel weights from balancing wheels, and thought about putting that in the ballast box for weight. May do it.

 

[JD2210MAN]

The owners manual for your loader and maybe your Tractor's manual should have a chart on how much weight to add. The box scraper should be good but if you are lifting a full bucket of crushed stone it may be better to use the ballast box (full of crushed stone). I like the ballast box because the size makes it more maneuverable and less expensive if you bump into something. For average work the box scraper should be fine (especially if the tires are loaded). See if your manuals have the chart in them to know for sure.

Happy New Year!! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[sros990]

You can find information on tire ballasting here:

http://www.tractorsmart.com/Farm_Tractor_Liquid_Tire_Ballast.htm

Steve

 

[pat32rf]

When I got my 4300 the manuals that came with the FEL gave details on its capacity WHEN the tires were loaded AND a ballast box installed. It gave dimensions and weights for the box when filled with concrete. Maybe next summer I will build one, until then its the back blade or 200lb of cast iron that hangs on my 3pt drawbar as well as WWAF in the tires and chains on R4's.

 

[RickW]

Thanks to everyone for the useful info!

Happy New Years!

 

[rb4410]

thanks for all the input guys,,,,,,my past experience with removing snow on my blue machine which will remain un-named,sent me spinning and strugglling to get up my snow covered driveway. i am using the same R-4 tires and they work well all around. i think filling the tires will boost my traction for snow removal as well as keep me better planted
when mowing.as far as the calcium goes,i have had to replace wheels on other tractors i have had. calcium has the same effects on steel that salt does.i like the sound of that rimguard and i think that is what i will use to fill the tires with.
as far as windshield washer fluid goes,i have seen it freeze here in pa,depends on the manufacturer.this past week i had seen 2 degrees on my thermometer with a 30 mph wind,felt like 30 below. brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr,,,,,,,, thanks again for all the input.

 

[tomrscott]

I am curious about trying to home-brew something like the Rim Guard product, which is actually heavier than calcium fill, but awfully expensive (~$3 / gal locally).

Talking with some folks about Rim Guard, it seems that it is a combination of beet juice (basically sugars) and what they call "various specially formulated polymers." The principle of the calcium fill as I understand it is that the calcium chloride (salt crystals) basically fill up the space in the water molecules to increase mass. Sugar crystals can do the same thing, while being less corrosive. "Polymers" sounds like something for added corrosion resistance, maybe something that is slimy and coats the metal, sealing it off from oxidation. Water soluble lotions, lanolins, glycerins, etc.

The key to keeping the cost down is to get chemicals in concentrated form in large quantity. I was thinking of pricing some things at the local restaurant supply. Perhaps some kind of fruit juice concentrate (avoiding anything to acidic, citrus, etc.) and maybe some liquid hand soap, or hair conditioner. You could mix up a small amount of something and put it in the freezer to see how it does at low temperature.

Any chemists out there with some good ideas? Has anyone played around with this? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif