Weight in your tires

[RoyJackson]

Why is it that none of the major tractor tire manufacturers seem to recommend filling tires with fluid, but instead call for careful balancing of axle weight using a scale if possible and then adding iron weights as necessary? I am referring to the Goodyear, Firestone and Michelin Ag handbooks.
At least two of these references cite uneven tire pressures with fluid-filling, and unnecessary stiffening of the tire carcass.

Tim

I haven't read those tire manuals, but I'll go by your post. My guess is the tire manufacturer's expertise and priorities deal with the longevity of their product. Since they are the experts, they're probably right. I'm sure their lawyers had something to do with that too, for liability reasons.

However, I'd guess farmers have been filling their rear tires since the 1920's or 1930's (whenever ag tires became widely available) with few problems (other then the occasional rusting of the rims by the CaCl).

I, for one, have no interest in jockeying around heavy wheel weights, although there are TBNers who swear by them. Also, you can't get ballast much lower then the bottom of a tire.

 

[Rob-D]

I don't know Roy, I'm going back and forth on rear weights or loading fluid. I loaded my ZTR tires (Rimguard) because they are small, 10 gallons each and it helped because I'm light.

First off, no way will I put CaCl in my tires, I've seen what that can do! It gets cold here and I won't risk plain water. The other thing is with blow outs, ok the small tires get a flat and I have 10 gallons of beet juice on the lawn that won't do any damage but we have nasty thorn bushes here and they go through everything. I got flats in my front tires on the 2720 and thought I'd get a rear flat one day but luckily didn't.

What's the price of weights? I figure if I get a flat I can just raise the tire and do a repair without removing it using weights. Just seems like a better option to me. No rust, flat problems or freezing to worry about besides that Rimguard wasn't that cheap! Also sell your tractor and you may be able to use your weights on the new guy!

Rob

 

[radman1]

I have used CaCl in tubes on tires for many years in the past. In tubes, it may take longer than the life of the tractor to corrode a rim. However, you will occassionally get a little rust around the stem. It is not the most evil thing to put in, if you need serious weight at the lowest cost. It can be mixed at different strengths for more weight. Having said that, I now prefer cast weights over liquid ballast, but cast will cost the most.

 

[msmud]

It takes years for CaCl to eat through rims, I mean decades. Neither my dad's Ford 2000 at 20 years, nor my his 970 at 16 years showed a problem. Still is seems a bit unsettling to have a corrosive working slowly on your tractor.

I have just priced weights on a 3032E, and 100# per side costs nearly $600, 155# per side is about $900. That's pretty expensive, particularly considering that the front weight ballasting is $1100 with brackets etc, but if I get this tractor, it will be the route I go.
Tim

 

[Rob-D]

It takes years for CaCl to eat through rims, I mean decades. Neither my dad's Ford 2000 at 20 years, nor my his 970 at 16 years showed a problem. Still is seems a bit unsettling to have a corrosive working slowly on your tractor.

I have just priced weights on a 3032E, and 100# per side costs nearly $600, 155# per side is about $900. That's pretty expensive, particularly considering that the front weight ballasting is $1100 with brackets etc, but if I get this tractor, it will be the route I go.
Tim

Me too!

Rob

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have used CaCl in tubes on tires for many years in the past. In tubes, it may take longer than the life of the tractor to corrode a rim. However, you will occassionally get a little rust around the stem. It is not the most evil thing to put in, if you need serious weight at the lowest cost. It can be mixed at different strength Having said that, I now prefer cast weights over liquid ballast, but cast will cost the most.

It takes years for CaCl to eat through rims, I mean decades. Neither my dad's Ford 2000 at 20 years, nor my his 970 at 16 years showed a problem. Still is seems a bit unsettling to have a corrosive working slowly on your tractor.

I have just priced weights on a 3032E, and 100# per side costs nearly $600, 155# per side is about $900. That's pretty expensive, particularly considering that the front weight ballasting is $1100 with brackets etc, but if I get this tractor, it will be the route I go.
Tim

CaCl in '62 JD 2010 from the beginning. Rims are OK.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have done tests with CaCl added to distilled water. 5# added to a gallon makes a solution that weighs 10.6# per gallon. 6#/G yields an 11#/G solution

7#/G gives 11.4/G but some of the salt precipitates out at 0F. Bottom of tire will be a little slushy with salt until it warms back up.
larry

 

[sunnyside360]

I have used CaCl in tubes on tires for many years in the past. In tubes, it may take longer than the life of the tractor to corrode a rim. However, you will occassionally get a little rust around the stem. It is not the most evil thing to put in, if you need serious weight at the lowest cost. It can be mixed at different strength Having said that, I now prefer cast weights over liquid ballast, but cast will cost the most.

My take on ballasting tractor tires is exactly as radman1 has stated. Most of my tire ballasting over the years has been with CaCl but in the last ten years it's been with RTV antifreeze and RimGuard. The only tractor I've had bad rim rusting issues with CaCl was a 1949 Farmall. I've had some small amount of rust around the valve stems on others but nothing serious. I'm sold on RimGuard -- no tubes, no rust, enviro friendly, can fix a flat with a plug w/o removing wheel. Down side is RimGuard is not cheap -- think it was around $2.50 per gallon installed on my new 2010 4320 (maybe got a bargain because of new tractor).

 

[Rob-D]

I'm sold on RimGuard -- no tubes, no rust, enviro friendly, can fix a flat with a plug w/o removing wheel.

I was wondering about this and if Rimguard would cause problems with the adhesive adhering to the rubber when attempting to fix flats.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[beenthere]

.................
1) What do you guys use in your tires?
Windshield Washer fluid, to -20 degree F straight

2) Does it take special equipment to put the fluid in or is there a way to do it at home?
I just lay the tire down, break the bead, and pour the WW fluid in. Block up the tire enough that the rim hangs and the top bead comes together and fill with air

3) Do those of you with weighted tires also use a ballast box with your FEL?
I do also use the ballast box for FEL work

..........................

This works for me.