Weight of CK30 on Lawn

timb · Jul 11, 2005

It seems that very localized soil conditions make more difference than the weight of the tractor (within reason) or tire choice.

Soil here in Westmoreland County - just south or east of Pittsburgh and west of the ridges - can be really problematic. It tends to be sometimes as little as three-four inches to at best a foot of top soil over very heavy, packed clay. A complete mess if it's at all wet. Soil just north of Pittsburgh, in Butler, Lawrence, Mercer counties and the like - underneath the edge of the last glacier melt and further north is very very different. We have a heck of a time getting perc tests approved any more around here - it's sand mounds everywhere now.

Best would be if he can rent a similar sized tractor for a day, get a little work done, and see what things look like on his property.

frank_f15 · Jul 11, 2005

This may not be a popular ans. but from reading your profile you have about 1 acre for house and lawn, and the rest in woods and 440ft drive? then get the ck30 if that is what you deceide on, but get it with R4's and get a LT FOR CUTTING YOUR yard. The cut with r4's or ag's will be much better for your other needs. i have found that for cutting yard lawn, a cut is overkill UNLESS you have alot of lawn and not many trees to dodge. But this is just MHO

albmn10 · Jul 11, 2005

Hello Mav, I have the CK30hst, as long as the lawn is not wet its not a problem as far as ruts, get the r4 tires, there a good all around tire and wont punture easily..If you only have 1 acre to mow id follow the previous posts advice and get a small riding mower. The CK30 is a tough tractor that will suit your other needs well. I got the quick detach loader ,Woods 1012 with mine so if down the line i ever want a MMM, that option will always be there... My dealer also recomended the rear mower. Its just easier to take on and off.. Good luck

Mavrik02 · Jul 11, 2005

hehe...I thought of that and see your point but don't think I can sell two purchases to the wife (and I know you can buy a pretty nice lawn tractor for the cost of a heavy duty MMM or RFM). Anyway I think some of the "lawn" would be a bit too much for a regular LT (woods/hills/etc.). I think a BX23 or CK20 would be perfect for cutting the grass around the house and through the woods but would prefer the bigger 30 hp machines for rearranging the lanscape, plowing the driveway, digging the basement foundation, diverting the springs, and keeping the area next to the creek cut and usable (heavy brush ~100ft wide and 600ft long).

I do have the advantage of being able to make the yard fit the tractor if there is a conflict between the two. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks for the thoughts!

Mavrik02 · Jul 11, 2005

I updated my profile with a little more accuracy. We just moved in two weeks ago so some of the plans keep changing. After consideration my wife decided that we need to keep the woods in front of the house clear so that the house can be seen from the bottom of the driveway. That added about 1.5 acres of sloping woods to the area that needs to be kept cut.

From what I can gather on the weight issue the turf tires might be best for the lawn but the R4 are pretty good all around and should be fine as long as the ground is not too wet.

I appreciate everyones input and help!

Fred

TractorLegend · Jul 12, 2005

I think you need to buy my Allis Chalmers 314 Deluxe w/ 42 in restored deck /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

frank_f15 · Jul 12, 2005

what mower were you thinking of getting MMM or RFM AND WHAT PRICE WAS IT?

Mavrik02 · Jul 12, 2005

I might consider the tractor but I'm not taking the kids! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I was thinking about the RFM because the MMM can not be installed with the BH on the tractor and from what I hear it takes some work to switch the mounting around (anyone have any experience with this?).

The Kioti MMM was quoted at $2592 and $2800 (before any negotiating).

I've had RFMs quoted at everything from $1500-$2400 depending on make/model.

TractorLegend · Jul 12, 2005

I think that mid mower deck weighs several hundred pounds.
You may need back surgery after just one mount/ dismount.
The cost seems excessive.
I though going from garden tractor to compact tractor about the mid mount, but the price killed it and am glad I got the rear one. It can get stuff you cant with the mid, and save a ton of bucks. I got a 72" RFM on my CK30HST. It beats up briars pretty great too for not being a brush hog. 3 one quarter inch thick blades strapped to 30h.p. gets serious real quick.
ps I got a tractor for my wife and it was the best trade I ever made. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

To20Chris · Jul 12, 2005

The real answer is that a CK30 weighs the same on a lawn as it does on the driveway! Sorry, I had to /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Anyway, I don't know what your soil conditions are like exactly, but they don't sound too different from mine. I wouldn't drive my LK on the nice parts of my lawn in the spring when it's wet, but as others have said, I try not to WALK on it then.

I really think you'll be disappointed with turfs - I'm often wishing for ag tires for better traction, but industrials are pretty good, and do distribute the load out more. The chains would help, but really, I think they'd be a PITA on a regular basis (****, I gotta put the chains on again!).

So I lost count - you're up to what 2.5 acres to mow? I would still say get get a used & serviceable LT for when it is too soft for the CUT - and the uglier it is the better (i.e. it's cheaper and you won't mind thrashing it). CUTs are all purpose machines, but are optimized for different types of work. If mowing is most important, get something lighter (but it will still leave marks when it's soft), and if the digging jobs are primary, get a heavier tractor for better traction and stability.

Given that you can't have it both ways, and probably can't drive even the lightest CUT on the lawn when it is wet, I would recomend a heavier tractor, and take it easy when you have to.