Weight on Rear of PT

[KentT]

Fourteen -- Your Cue

I don't think Fourteen is running added weight, is he?

I'm running loaded tires and reversed wheels... and occasionally additional weight. As Bob indicates, it makes a noticeable difference in what you can lift and what you can feel comfortable transporting without "tippiness"... It also increases traction -- which is why I also loaded all four.

I will make one recommendation here. If you are considering running extra weight on the back, I'd recommend you load your tires (or run wheel weights) instead of just hanging weight on the tractor -- if you plan on leaving the weight on there all the time...

Wheel weights or loaded tires put the extra weight on the ground -- not transmitted to the ground through the axles and bearings of the driveline. The only real added stress of loaded tires or wheel weights comes from the having to overcome the inertia of additional weight when starting or stopping. In comparison, added weight to the tractor's frame (or elsewhere on the machine) gets transferred to the ground through the bearings in the wheel motors, in addition to having the heavier weight to start or stop.

The only real advantage of hanging weight somewhere else other than the wheels is that you can remove it when you don't want it.... Since I'm not doing lawn work with my machine, the added weight (nor lug tires) doesn't concern me. I want the stability and traction at all times...

As far as reversed wheels -- to each their own -- you've heard Fourteen's points and I won't repeat them. Reversing the wheels on my machine made a large area of my hillsides more "usable" because I woudn't feel safe on them otherwise... My machine is long out of warranty, and I bought it to use for only one purpose -- to clear and maintain this specific piece of property. I have no qualms in modifying it to better meet those needs, even if it requires more maintenance, wheel motor upgrades, etc.

Your mileage may (and likely will) vary....

 

[MossRoad]

... I will make one recommendation here. If you are considering running extra weight on the back, I'd recommend you load your tires (or run wheel weights) instead of just hanging weight on the tractor -- if you plan on leaving the weight on there all the time...

Wheel weights or loaded tires put the extra weight on the ground -- not transmitted to the ground through the axles and bearings of the driveline. The only real added stress of loaded tires or wheel weights comes from the having to overcome the inertia of additional weight when starting or stopping. In comparison, added weight to the tractor's frame (or elsewhere on the machine) gets transferred to the ground through the bearings in the wheel motors, in addition to having the heavier weight to start or stop.

That's a very good point.

One thing I'd like to discuss...
when I am brush hogging up a hill, and my tires start to slip, I lift the brush hog off the ground an inch and that puts weight on the front wheels. I then have enough traction to climb the hill. I'm thinking rear weight would counteract that benefit and would actually make front tire spin more likely going up hill. Did you load all your tires for traction or just the rears to act like a counterweight for FEL work?

 

[KentT]

That's a very good point.

One thing I'd like to discuss...
when I am brush hogging up a hill, and my tires start to slip, I lift the brush hog off the ground an inch and that puts weight on the front wheels. I then have enough traction to climb the hill. I'm thinking rear weight would counteract that benefit and would actually make front tire spin more likely going up hill. Did you load all your tires for traction or just the rears to act like a counterweight for FEL work?

I actually loaded all four of them as much for stability as for traction (though I did want more weight on the rear for lifting things). Having all four tires loaded helps "hold it" on hillsides, both with the low center of gravity (reduced tippiness) and traction, especially sideways. With lug tires, it now has very, very little tendency to slip even on wet grass. The difference in the center of gravity is noticeable -- it literally would have to lift an additional 150lb or so (about 75lb per wheel) off the ground on the uphill side to tip over. Overall, PT pucker, even when articulated, is greatly reduced.

With my old wheel motors, the only tires that ever seemed to spin are the front ones, and that's the result of weight transfer to the attachment or too much down-pressure. I have noticed a reduced tendency to spin the front tires since I loaded them, though. I can't really tell any difference in rear traction, because I'm not sure if I've ever spun the rear tires...

I'm excited to see what happens with twice the torque on those new wheel motors! I may be able to spin all four...

 

[BobRip]

Fourteen -- Your Cue

Don't start that up. This is a weight discussion.

I normally run two of the 55 pound weights on the back. That plus the bumper and 2 inch receiver total around 120 pounds. So 100 pounds is about right.

I could replace my 2 X 6 wood bumper with steel. They are 1.5 X 5.5 X 29 inches. That should be about 65 pounds. Lead would be about 95 pounds.

 

[BobRip]

KentT, I am giving strong consideration to the loaded tires. Since I run the weight all of the time, why not? What liquid have you put in the tires?

 

[KentT]

KentT, I am giving strong consideration to the loaded tires. Since I run the weight all of the time, why not? What liquid have you put in the tires?

I'm using winter-mix windshield washer fluid that I bought by the case. It's good to -20F I think.

I added HydroSeal sealant which is somewhat like "Slime for loaded tires." I understand that there's a competitive product to HydroSeal out now, but I couldn't find it when I loaded mine...

 

[Barryh]

I'm using winter-mix windshield washer fluid that I bought by the case. It's good to -20F I think.

I added HydroSeal sealant which is somewhat like "Slime for loaded tires." I understand that there's a competitive product to HydroSeal out now, but I couldn't find it when I loaded mine...

Loaded tires make a lot more sense, less stress on the machine. So I take it the Hydro Seal doesn’t mix with the added windshield washer fluid, and still seals any leaks?? Or is this added before you add the fluid. I have slime I bought for the PT, but have not added yet.

 

[KentT]

Loaded tires make a lot more sense, less stress on the machine. So I take it the Hydro Seal doesn’t mix with the added windshield washer fluid, and still seals any leaks?? Or is this added before you add the fluid. I have slime I bought for the PT, but have not added yet.

HydroSeal is designed especially for fluid-filled tires. You add it, in addition to whatever fluid you're using for weight, in the amounts/ratios they specify. It gets diluted by the fluid, but it still works.

It has small fibers of some type of synthetic material in it, in addition to the "sticky sealant" stuff. When something punctures the tire, the fluid carries the fibers to that hole, and the "sticky stuff" bonds it together and seals the hole. I haven't had a flat in almost two years -- other than breaking off a valve stem with a tree limb -- whereas I had 4 flats in less than 3 weeks before. So I went with this stuff and loaded the tires at the same time.

 

[Barryh]

HydroSeal is designed especially for fluid-filled tires. You add it, in addition to whatever fluid you're using for weight, in the amounts/ratios they specify. It gets diluted by the fluid, but it still works.

It has small fibers of some type of synthetic material in it, in addition to the "sticky sealant" stuff. When something punctures the tire, the fluid carries the fibers to that hole, and the "sticky stuff" bonds it together and seals the hole. I haven't had a flat in almost two years -- other than breaking off a valve stem with a tree limb -- whereas I had 4 flats in less than 3 weeks before. So I went with this stuff and loaded the tires at the same time.

Cool... if it's that good then I will hold off on the slime and try loading my tires also. Of course I'm not a member of the 422 / 425 club, so my tires will not hold as much for the added weight. I may still need to add a little to the back end, after I weigh each tire or at least until I get to 120 lb's. Sounds about right to me. This is defiantly the way to go. Glad this topic came up. Now about those reversed wheels.... Just kidding Bob.

 

[KentT]

Barry,

You may want to check into the other sealant mentioned here. You have to buy Hydro-Seal by the 5gal bucket and it's expensive.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/99119-tire-sealants-liquid-ballast-compatible.html?highlight=sealant