JerryG
Super Member
Art,
I guess the ideal weight for mowing would be the least weight that the wheels would not spin?
I guess the ideal weight for mowing would be the least weight that the wheels would not spin?
Weight to HP ratio??
- Thread starter ledebuhr1
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KubotaBling
Silver Member
cut's are alittle more powerful than most bigger tractors ie a 2000# tractor having 20pto hp vs a tractor weights 40,000 might have 200-400 hp. Due to the need for light weight as to not disrupt the soil in rice tires and relatively small tires used on cuts. The floation idea is used to make a high hp low ground pressure unit. Traction is usualy the problem when ground engaging, power when your using a mowing machine.
But i like a tractor that has 1:1 vs the industry std of 100# per hp for weight. So for a 40,000 # tractor a 40,000hp engine would work like one off a boeing ram jet or something like that. I find with a tiller it churns the dirt alot better /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
But i like a tractor that has 1:1 vs the industry std of 100# per hp for weight. So for a 40,000 # tractor a 40,000hp engine would work like one off a boeing ram jet or something like that. I find with a tiller it churns the dirt alot better /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
bebster
Platinum Member
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- JD 4410 eHydro & 430FEL w/ 4N1 bucket & pallet forks
PTO HP is the actual HP delivered to the PTO shaft. This is usually the most important HP figure on a tractor, since it relates to the amount of energy that can be delivered to PTO powered implements. It's typically about 73-83% of the gross engine HP for compact tractors. For the L4330 its 80% (43.2 gross HP, and 35 PTO HP).
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
You might want to check drawbar hp.. if a unit is very light.. high hp won't transmit to the ground as effictively.
Also I noticed my obvious type-o error.. A zero got left out/ that was 100 # per hp.. and as i see from the other posts.. that is a good average.
Soundguy
Also I noticed my obvious type-o error.. A zero got left out/ that was 100 # per hp.. and as i see from the other posts.. that is a good average.
Soundguy
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
The 1920 is my workhorse.. for many reasons.. not just new and deisel.
It is the only tractor with rops, and 4wd that I have.
It is also one of the only with a 12v neg grnd system.. which allows my niceties like an am/fm radio on the fender. With the rops I get a sunshade... ( though my cub is 12v with a sunshade.. I can't go mow 10 ac in the same amount of time.. etc.
The 4wd is nice for disc'ing too.
I left out a few of my tractors in the comparison.. namely the NAA which is right there weight and hp with the 1920...I could probably do nearly equal work with them.. with trade offs for the 4wd on the 1920, and the draft hyds on the NAA. Power steering on the 1920 is nice.. but as my othe rtractors don't have it.. I can live without it. NAA has turfs.. so that cuts down a bit on its usable traction... but as far a s power goes.. I have to say it is very even with the 1920.. but the NAA"s hyds seem weaker than the NH lift.. etc. ( age i figure ).
On a far side of the comparison.. I see my JD 'B' is only 28 hp ( pto i think ), yet weighs something like 4200 lbs. That is on the low side of hp, high side of weight.. yet this machine used to 'hay' for a living.. whereas I wouldn't want to hay with my 1920 due to the baler throwing the tractor around due to the lighter weight.
Again.. just have to match the tractor with the job.
Soundguy
It is the only tractor with rops, and 4wd that I have.
It is also one of the only with a 12v neg grnd system.. which allows my niceties like an am/fm radio on the fender. With the rops I get a sunshade... ( though my cub is 12v with a sunshade.. I can't go mow 10 ac in the same amount of time.. etc.
The 4wd is nice for disc'ing too.
I left out a few of my tractors in the comparison.. namely the NAA which is right there weight and hp with the 1920...I could probably do nearly equal work with them.. with trade offs for the 4wd on the 1920, and the draft hyds on the NAA. Power steering on the 1920 is nice.. but as my othe rtractors don't have it.. I can live without it. NAA has turfs.. so that cuts down a bit on its usable traction... but as far a s power goes.. I have to say it is very even with the 1920.. but the NAA"s hyds seem weaker than the NH lift.. etc. ( age i figure ).
On a far side of the comparison.. I see my JD 'B' is only 28 hp ( pto i think ), yet weighs something like 4200 lbs. That is on the low side of hp, high side of weight.. yet this machine used to 'hay' for a living.. whereas I wouldn't want to hay with my 1920 due to the baler throwing the tractor around due to the lighter weight.
Again.. just have to match the tractor with the job.
Soundguy
normde2001
Elite Member
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"A zero got left out/ that was 100 # per hp"
I was gonna mention that, but thought, "nah, he knows that."
That would have made a pretty good superstock dragracing ratio.
I was gonna mention that, but thought, "nah, he knows that."
That would have made a pretty good superstock dragracing ratio.
I had the same question about a year and a half ago. I agree with the above answers: it depends. I picked the midsized Class II Boomer from NH which had 25, 29, & 33 hp choices on the same tractor chassis. These choices give 75-100lb per hp. If I was planning to mow on flat land, I guess the 25 hp would have been best & maybe even too big for my mowing needs. If I was planning on doing FEL work, the 29 probably would have been my choice. I live on hill and push snow with my FEL, as well as mow, drag tress, move dirt, and so on. I felt 33hp was a best choice for me. If I had a lot of $$ to spend, like I hadn't spent a lot already, I would have a 20hp tractor for mowing, maybe even a ZTR, and 40-45hp tractor for the real work. Of course my wife has a different opinion on the subject. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Joe1
Platinum Member
When considering the tractor weights, you need to use the curb weight not the shipping weight.
My JD 770 weighs about 2,150 #.
Add Liquid weighted wheels, a front end loader, a rear rotary cutter, fluids and my 190# and It's probably some where nearer to 3,900 #. Even with 4 wheel drive and "only" 25 gross HP, and 20 PTO HP, I ALWAYS run out of traction before HP.
The manufacturers have been building these machines for decades, and have pretty good feeling for the weight to power ratio and the kind of realistic work plus a little extra their machines are designed for. A knowledgable dealer and a study of the literature available (a lot of mostly knowledgable opinions on this and other forums), along with an accurate idea of what you need to accomplish should cover the bases.
Good luck
Joe1
My JD 770 weighs about 2,150 #.
Add Liquid weighted wheels, a front end loader, a rear rotary cutter, fluids and my 190# and It's probably some where nearer to 3,900 #. Even with 4 wheel drive and "only" 25 gross HP, and 20 PTO HP, I ALWAYS run out of traction before HP.
The manufacturers have been building these machines for decades, and have pretty good feeling for the weight to power ratio and the kind of realistic work plus a little extra their machines are designed for. A knowledgable dealer and a study of the literature available (a lot of mostly knowledgable opinions on this and other forums), along with an accurate idea of what you need to accomplish should cover the bases.
Good luck
Joe1
k4330
Bronze Member
Ditto on that. My 4330 says #3500 then add loader, bucket, filled tires. and we jump up over #5000. I was draging a full downed red oak with leaves it bog the motor but lost traction before it would stall ..Bill