Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

IH3444 · May 19, 2006

relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole.

IH3444 · May 19, 2006

relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( Rob,

After going through everything, I learned that they are not part of the kit and that they are not always changed. Anybody heard of this before? Mine look warn on the sides and there are a few odd marks on them, but overall, I'd guees I could have kept them.
)

I guess you are talking about the wrist pins? Rare that they would not come with the kit, especially with the new pistons. But you really have to let go if this freezer thing, 32 degrees isn't going to do much. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But the pins can be a chore to put in, here's how I do it. lube up the pin, put the piston on a table, put your left palm (for righties) on top of the piston and lean on it with your weight (basically you don't want it to jump around). Then hold the pin in the right hand, put it in the opening, it'll probably will get stuck. You want to wiggle it up and down ever so slightly. You can feel it sort of walk in as you wiggle it. Once you get it in a half inch or so it should slide right in. It seems simple but the tolerances are very tight. You are working with a .001 or so.

And don't forget the snap rings in the pins. And double check them with a slight tap with a hammer each way. If you put them in to far they'll click into place, if you left one out to far it'll pop out.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( Rob,

After going through everything, I learned that they are not part of the kit and that they are not always changed. Anybody heard of this before? Mine look warn on the sides and there are a few odd marks on them, but overall, I'd guees I could have kept them.
)

I guess you are talking about the wrist pins? Rare that they would not come with the kit, especially with the new pistons. But you really have to let go if this freezer thing, 32 degrees isn't going to do much. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But the pins can be a chore to put in, here's how I do it. lube up the pin, put the piston on a table, put your left palm (for righties) on top of the piston and lean on it with your weight (basically you don't want it to jump around). Then hold the pin in the right hand, put it in the opening, it'll probably will get stuck. You want to wiggle it up and down ever so slightly. You can feel it sort of walk in as you wiggle it. Once you get it in a half inch or so it should slide right in. It seems simple but the tolerances are very tight. You are working with a .001 or so.

And don't forget the snap rings in the pins. And double check them with a slight tap with a hammer each way. If you put them in to far they'll click into place, if you left one out to far it'll pop out.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole. )

Eddie are you replacing the mains? I usually don't seen them in the upper kits. I would probably leave them unless the other bearings showed a lot of damage. I think your damage is limited to the upper end.

But a good tip here none the less.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole. )

Eddie are you replacing the mains? I usually don't seen them in the upper kits. I would probably leave them unless the other bearings showed a lot of damage. I think your damage is limited to the upper end.

But a good tip here none the less.

scott_vt · May 19, 2006

Hi Eddie,
I just kind of stumbled on this thread, dont usually come on this board. For what its worth, the best of luck to you on this very involved project!!! I have never done any real work on diesels and it looks like a bit of buggy lugging on the big stuff, thankgoodness for your loader /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Keep plugging, you will get there. Oh yes, cant stress cleaniness enough on motor assembly. But I guess you knew that allready /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

scott_vt · May 19, 2006

Hi Eddie,
I just kind of stumbled on this thread, dont usually come on this board. For what its worth, the best of luck to you on this very involved project!!! I have never done any real work on diesels and it looks like a bit of buggy lugging on the big stuff, thankgoodness for your loader /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Keep plugging, you will get there. Oh yes, cant stress cleaniness enough on motor assembly. But I guess you knew that allready /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

EddieWalker · May 23, 2006

Just a little update on my latest blunder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I got the wrist pin bushings on Saturday, but didn't get a chance to put them in until Sunday. The old ones just tap out with a socket, but the new ones took a little effort to put in.

I lubed them first, then carved a piece of oak to get it in. That worked ok with a bit of effort. Then I tried to assemble the pistons and wrist pins. No luck.

The wrist pin would not fit into the bushing. I tried a little persuading with a hammer, and ruind the bushing!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Now I'm waiting for another bushing. Seems the only place to get them in from Atlanta. It should be here after 10:30 today. It will go straight to Ray Engine, who is putting them into the connecting rods.

Turns out you have to hone out the bushings to fit the wrist pins. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

OOPS.

Eddie

EddieWalker · May 23, 2006

Just a little update on my latest blunder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I got the wrist pin bushings on Saturday, but didn't get a chance to put them in until Sunday. The old ones just tap out with a socket, but the new ones took a little effort to put in.

I lubed them first, then carved a piece of oak to get it in. That worked ok with a bit of effort. Then I tried to assemble the pistons and wrist pins. No luck.

The wrist pin would not fit into the bushing. I tried a little persuading with a hammer, and ruind the bushing!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Now I'm waiting for another bushing. Seems the only place to get them in from Atlanta. It should be here after 10:30 today. It will go straight to Ray Engine, who is putting them into the connecting rods.

Turns out you have to hone out the bushings to fit the wrist pins. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

OOPS.

Eddie