Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A good way to bleed those injectors lines is to crack the fitting right at the injector while you are cranking it over, when fluid comes out, you are close. Do this for all 6 injectors and pretty soon it will start. It will run a little rough until all the air is out of the system. You also might want to check the incoming fuel line to the pump and bleed it as well, the more air in the system, the longer it will take.)</font>

That is good advice. Make sure your filters are full of diesel. If you crack the line open right at the injectors and while your spinning the engine over you start to see fuel coming from a line, close it off and watch for the next one to start fueling. Once 4-5 injectors are fueling you are fixing to be running. Just keep your wrench handy... because once she fires up any loose lines will be spitting fuel.

Great job once again Eddie.

One more thing... go easy on the starting fluid. Diesel's don't like ether to begin with and I would be more afraid on a rebuild. Bleed the air out the old fashioned way and you'll be better off.

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A good way to bleed those injectors lines is to crack the fitting right at the injector while you are cranking it over, when fluid comes out, you are close. Do this for all 6 injectors and pretty soon it will start. It will run a little rough until all the air is out of the system. You also might want to check the incoming fuel line to the pump and bleed it as well, the more air in the system, the longer it will take.)</font>

That is good advice. Make sure your filters are full of diesel. If you crack the line open right at the injectors and while your spinning the engine over you start to see fuel coming from a line, close it off and watch for the next one to start fueling. Once 4-5 injectors are fueling you are fixing to be running. Just keep your wrench handy... because once she fires up any loose lines will be spitting fuel.

Great job once again Eddie.

One more thing... go easy on the starting fluid. Diesel's don't like ether to begin with and I would be more afraid on a rebuild. Bleed the air out the old fashioned way and you'll be better off.

 

[RobJ]

OK Eddie....ready?

first.... PLEASE DON'T USE STARTING FLUID!!! I'll have to dig up my International 384 rebuild pics. Rings in piecesand the ring lands worn. Brutal.
The diesels I worked on had Bosch systems. They are self bleeding systems(high pressure side of the pump) but you can help them a bit. And the place they really HATE air is on the transfer side. AS everyone mentioned make sure you have good fuel to the pump, our old boschs had the transfer pump on the side of the injection pump with a manual handle. Make sure all you Banjo fiittings have good copper on them. Especially on the suction side. Pump up lots of fuel, make sure you are getting plenty on the return side of the pump. To aid in injector bleading, remove the 2 bolts holding the cover on the side of the injuction pump, you will see the 6 plungers. Remove one of the injector lines at the pump. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and pump up theplungers. You should see fuel comming out of the plunger. If not, double check for air in the system (with a little air you should get some fuel to pump up). If no fuel check the fuel shut off lever...usually on the inside (engine side of the pump). When you move it you can see the rack moving inside the injection pump cover. If you are getting fuel, replace the line, tighten, then remove the line at the injector. Pump up more fuel (remember to keep the transfer pump feeding to). When you see fuel come from the end of the line, put the line on the injector, pump up some more, you will start to feel the pressure built in the injector...don't force it, let the pump do that when you crank it over. Do that to all 6 and she should fire up within 3-4 turns. That was always our test, see how few turns to start it on a new engine.

I would say leave the timing, etc alone. Using the KISS method we'll assume for now that that was working ans is still working.

feel free to email me at rob_n_houston@yahoo.com with your phone number and I'll be glad to call you to answer any questions in person. Since we have a place in Elkhart, we might make a road trip for a visit one weekend if you are up for it.

Good luck!!
Rob

 

[RobJ]

OK Eddie....ready?

first.... PLEASE DON'T USE STARTING FLUID!!! I'll have to dig up my International 384 rebuild pics. Rings in piecesand the ring lands worn. Brutal.
The diesels I worked on had Bosch systems. They are self bleeding systems(high pressure side of the pump) but you can help them a bit. And the place they really HATE air is on the transfer side. AS everyone mentioned make sure you have good fuel to the pump, our old boschs had the transfer pump on the side of the injection pump with a manual handle. Make sure all you Banjo fiittings have good copper on them. Especially on the suction side. Pump up lots of fuel, make sure you are getting plenty on the return side of the pump. To aid in injector bleading, remove the 2 bolts holding the cover on the side of the injuction pump, you will see the 6 plungers. Remove one of the injector lines at the pump. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and pump up theplungers. You should see fuel comming out of the plunger. If not, double check for air in the system (with a little air you should get some fuel to pump up). If no fuel check the fuel shut off lever...usually on the inside (engine side of the pump). When you move it you can see the rack moving inside the injection pump cover. If you are getting fuel, replace the line, tighten, then remove the line at the injector. Pump up more fuel (remember to keep the transfer pump feeding to). When you see fuel come from the end of the line, put the line on the injector, pump up some more, you will start to feel the pressure built in the injector...don't force it, let the pump do that when you crank it over. Do that to all 6 and she should fire up within 3-4 turns. That was always our test, see how few turns to start it on a new engine.

I would say leave the timing, etc alone. Using the KISS method we'll assume for now that that was working ans is still working.

feel free to email me at rob_n_houston@yahoo.com with your phone number and I'll be glad to call you to answer any questions in person. Since we have a place in Elkhart, we might make a road trip for a visit one weekend if you are up for it.

Good luck!!
Rob

 

[john_bud]

Eddie,

PLEASE, throw away that can of ether!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a piston on my shelf right in front of me with 2 broken ring lands that were caused by the prior owner using ether in the winter as the plug in heater "took too long".

You really don't want to break the pistons at the same time you start it, do you?

'Nuff said.

Now, post some pictures of it running!

jb

 

[john_bud]

Eddie,

PLEASE, throw away that can of ether!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a piston on my shelf right in front of me with 2 broken ring lands that were caused by the prior owner using ether in the winter as the plug in heater "took too long".

You really don't want to break the pistons at the same time you start it, do you?

'Nuff said.

Now, post some pictures of it running!

jb

 

[Nasty135]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you really replace them every year? I've never heard of that.
)</font> <font color="blue"> </font>
Well I certainly don't but some might, But a few years down the road it would be nice to not have galled threads... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Nasty135]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you really replace them every year? I've never heard of that.
)</font> <font color="blue"> </font>
Well I certainly don't but some might, But a few years down the road it would be nice to not have galled threads... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

IT'S RUNNING!!!!!

Thanks for all the advice and setting me straight on the starting fluid.

I had plenty of fuel at the filters, but the line from there to the injector pump had air in it and nothing was coming out. I opened that line and manually pumped it until fuel came out.

Then I took the lines off the injectors. I took them completely off and turned over the engine. It didn't take long, but fuel started coming out of the lines in pulses.

I put them back on, tightened them up real good and tried again.

It fired right up!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

A little white smoke at first and a little rough, but in seconds it smoothed out and purred. Hard to describe the sounds, but SMOOOOOTTHHHH is what Steph and I both thought when we heard it. It's also allot quiter than before.

I didn't give it too much fuel, just enough to run the drive pumps. I backed off the ramps and then parked beside them.

THANK YOU again to everyone for all your help and advice. I could not have done this without your help.

My last question is how long do I wait to break in the engine? Can I rev it up? Can I move dirt? What's the proper way to break in one of these engines??

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

IT'S RUNNING!!!!!

Thanks for all the advice and setting me straight on the starting fluid.

I had plenty of fuel at the filters, but the line from there to the injector pump had air in it and nothing was coming out. I opened that line and manually pumped it until fuel came out.

Then I took the lines off the injectors. I took them completely off and turned over the engine. It didn't take long, but fuel started coming out of the lines in pulses.

I put them back on, tightened them up real good and tried again.

It fired right up!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

A little white smoke at first and a little rough, but in seconds it smoothed out and purred. Hard to describe the sounds, but SMOOOOOTTHHHH is what Steph and I both thought when we heard it. It's also allot quiter than before.

I didn't give it too much fuel, just enough to run the drive pumps. I backed off the ramps and then parked beside them.

THANK YOU again to everyone for all your help and advice. I could not have done this without your help.

My last question is how long do I wait to break in the engine? Can I rev it up? Can I move dirt? What's the proper way to break in one of these engines??

Thank you,
Eddie