Welded vs bolted trailer balls

[nikerret]

I致e had good luck with my GenY. I use it to tow commercially. It痴 not as pretty, now, but you get the idea. The 2 5/16 ball is rated for 16k. The 2 is rated for 12k. These are big numbers, compared to a lot of the competition. The adjustability is great. I have the tow loop and the 1 7/8 ball, which both go in the hole.

 

[Motorboatin]

I have the same GenY and love it. Took a while for me to justify the cost but once I bought it I kicked myself for waiting

The only issue is if when borrowing a trailer or renting equipment. The chains are never long enough so I have to use a standard setup. This past weekend I rented a boom lift for some tree trimming and noticed the ball was loose. I could not break the rust free so a resorted to using some 7018. My vote is for welded balls

 

[ray66v]

I like that the latest draw bar I bought with a welded ball, doesn't have anything hanging down under it. (i.e. shaft and nut).

My hitch is not behind the rear bumper cover, it actually hangs down below it, so ground clearance is at the minimum.

I've used a lot of bolted on balls. None have ever loosened up for me. As stated, you need to make a serious effort to tighten it.

 

[jmc]

I think someone on TBN recommended lubing the ball because friction while turning in a certain direction tries to unscrew the ball. Made sense to me. The trick is to remember it's greasy BEFORE you handle it!

 

[shooterdon]

Isn't it frustrating that a rusted bolt you need to remove is nearly impossible to turn but the bolt on a rusted ball hitch self loosens?

I had a hitch on my old 2001 plow truck that was rusted on so badly I could not remove it from the receiver without soaking it with PB Blaster a couple of hours and smacking it with a hand sledge hammer. We have good rust in MI!!!