Welding ARGGGGGG!!!!

[Highbeam]

Nice description RonMar. I too use a 225 AC machine and have recently switched to the 6013 from 7018. I found the 7018 really sensitive to moisture. Anyway, my welder has preset jumps in amperage and I have found that one or the other always works well.

In addition to RonMar's description of the circles I actually watch the puddle to be sure that it is about as wide as I want my weld to be and round. The consistent puddle is important.

My second big discovery is that bare and clean metal for both the ground and the weld make a big difference in the weld materail laying down flat instead of bunching up into bird poo with big porosity issues. Now I'll admit that when in the field and I need two pieces to stick that I am proud of the AC225's ability to blow through rust, paint, and grease to lay down a functional weld. On nice fab jobs that use expensive steel and time I will take the time and clean it up nice.

The last thing I have discovered is the bacon sizzle. You want to hold the electrode close enough to the weld to get a sizzle sound. Not a wowowow sound or a popopop but a pkkkkkkkkkkkk sound like you are holding down a pile of bacon against the hot pan with a spatula. You'll know what I mean when you try.

Auto darkening hood is mucho cool and I have been known to get some nice sun burns. The best welds with AC stick are done flat, always will be.

 

[Cord]

6013 is a decent multi position rod. It's not the easiest rod to use, but it's multi postion and the slag scales of really nice. 7014 is almost a drag rod which I would recommend for 90% of your welds. It's a very user friendly rod. Unfortinatly it's not as versitile as the 6013. The slag also isn't as hard to pull off. The 7024's are even easier to use being they are a true drag rod. Unfortinatly, 7024 isn't the easiest rod to find.

Making a horizontal pas on a vertical surface is a exceptionally hard weld to make for a novice. You are skipping several critical steps which are hindering you. Take the advice from above and practice on the scrap metal before graduating. Here are a couple of things for you to check before striking that arc again:

Are your rods dry? Many people don't realize that welding rods will absorb moisture and go bad. If the rods have been out of a sealed container for more than a week or two, put them in a oven to dry them. Look into purchasing some screw top rod holders. They will keep the moisture out and are pretty affordable.

What are you trying to weld? The condition you are describing could come from cast iron. Cast iron can be welded, but you need a different nickel bearing rod that is tricky to use. I don't know if you can weld cast iron on a vertical surface.

Buy some quality rod. I've tried to use the hardware store rod and the stuff sucks. I mixed some hardware store rod with some good welding store rod and I could tell every time I got a hardware store rod. I finally went through the container and picked out all the hardware store rod and threw them away.

If you do have a bad weld, do not weld over it with out first cleaning the surface. You need to get all the scale and weld boogers off first. Sometimes this will involve the grinder.

 

[Louisiana_John]

This is what was told to me before it is simple. Point the rod were you wont the metal. Wash your gap keep it closes overhead. Overhead make sure you are not trying to fill the Grand Canyon. Make more than one pass. If you are making bird mess it sounds like your rod to work is to far, Keep your rod moving and keep it close.
John

 

[EddieWalker]

What a great thread. Lots of very good info. I'm gonna try some different rod just to see what happens.

Then only thing that wasn't mentioned by anybody was to what direction are you welding?

On verticle welds, I always start at the bottom and go up. This way I can create a nice pool and keep if flowing upwards. If I go the other way, I can't maintain a pool to see what I'm doing.

Eddie

 

[BobReeves]

Ya, lots of great info, still digesting it all..

One question has kind got lost in the noise.. Is it worth the trouble to convert an AC welder to DC? I already have the parts but haven't done it.

 

[EddieWalker]

I grew up and learned on an AC only box. When it came time to buy one, I found a good deal on ebay for an AC/DC unit from Napa. It's almost like night and day. The DC current is much easier to work with, keep a nice puddle and start the arc. There's also allot less splatter.

If you have the parts and ability to make the conversion, it's a no brainer. Do it.

Eddie

 

[BB_TX]

Here are a couple links to some good welding information.

<font color="blue"> Welding electrodes </font>
<font color="blue"> </font> Arc welding basics
On the second one, click on a Lesson number on the left, then click on Turn Page on the right.

 

[KubotainNH]

I had the same problem with my A/C unit. I did some reading on the Lincoln site http://www.lincolnelectric.com and found it was my technique. Angle the rod in the direction you're going, weeve back and forth across the seem and watch for a good pool. Slow and steady. Like they say above, lots of practice but you've got to start with the proper technique. If the heat isn't high enough in the arc (not very red) the pool will not flow well, you'll have lots of splatter and the slag will not flow to the top but will be within the weld making "bird poop" and weak weld. The difference in my welds was like night and day once I had the correct technique. Good luck, once you get it down the fun begins /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Berniep]

Back when I was learning to weld with a stick, I was having the same problems of sticking rods and such when just a few days before it seemed much easier. A friend told me about the rods getting wet over time. Seems I left them out in the High SC humidity. Bought a new small pack and couldn't believe how much better they would start an arc.

 

[BobReeves]

Have had the welder for several years but this the first chance I have had to actually use it for something constructive. Read about the possible moisture problem early. I save the packets of desiccant we receive in electronic equipment and put them in the air-tight tubes I store my rods in. Don't know for sure but don't think moisture is in the picture.

Funny part is I can take a scrap piece of 1/4 inch, lay it flat and run a bead that looks just like the books say it should. Problem is I have never ran into a situation in the real world of welding that is anything like the practice samples. Usually it is something like 1/8 tube needing to be welded to 1/2 inch steel at some weird angle. Anyway I am having fun trying to get it to look good, my RA grinder an wire brush are getting a work out /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif